Sold/Expired SALE: JM-PhD-D1 PWM Hotwire Regulator BATCH 2

[id30209]

I haven't looked at these in a while. I'm holding 3 for maxspeeds. But I'm not sure about more.

If Maxspeeds doesn't respond can i get 2?

 

[maxspeeds]

Hi Jimmy,

Thanks for holding them for me. My apologies for not providing the configurations after sending paypal. I hope to get them to you by this weekend.

Cheers!
Joel

 

[maxspeeds]

Hi Jimmy,

Please set my three per the following:

Please set #1 & #2 per the following:
Operation Mode: Multi-Level
WA1185 with 4x18650 li-ion batteries

Vbulb: 10.8V
Vlow: 12.8V (3.2V x 4)
Level-1: 18-100% (90%) 9.7V
Level-2: 18-100% (94%) 10.2V
Level-3: 18-100% (100%) 10.8V
SoftRamp: Yes
Softstart: Slow
Vlow_Latch: Enable
Low Volt Warning: Pulsing
Low volt shutdown: Both, 30 Seconds, 94%
Over Temp trigger: 60C
Over Temp Shutdown: Yes 15 Seconds
Response: 1/4 second

And please set #3 to the following:
Operation Mode: Multi-Level
Osram 64458 with 8x18650 li-ion batteries

Vbulb: 18.0V
Vlow: 25.6V (3.2V x 8)
Level-1: 18-100% (69%) 12.4V
Level-2: 18-100% (79%) 14.2V
Level-3: 18-100% (100%) 18.0V
SoftRamp: Yes
Softstart: Slow
Vlow_Latch: Enable
Low Volt Warning: Pulsing
Low volt shutdown: Both, 30 Seconds, 94%
Over Temp trigger: 70C
Over Temp Shutdown: Yes 15 Seconds
Response: 1/4 second


All lights will run off of 18650 unprotected li-ions and IMR cells. Please confirm 3.1V per cell each is safe under load for over discharge protection.

Thank you!
Joel

 

[The_Driver]

I have been thinking about modding one of my regulators to work with higher voltages like was done here.
Did he do it correctly?
I searched for these parts on Mouser and got results, but there are multiple versions of the voltage regulator with slight differences and I don't know which specific characterics are needed. Can you help me?

 

[JimmyM]

I have been thinking about modding one of my regulators to wor with higher voltages like was done here.
Did he do it correctly?
I searched for these parts on Mouser and got results, but there are multiple versions of the voltage regulator with slight differences and I don't know which specific characterics are needed. Can you help me?

There are 2 parts. The voltage regulator and the FET. The tricky part is the voltage divider used to measure the battery voltage. If you just use a voltage regulator to drop the voltage going into the regulator at the vBat input, the regulator will always see that reduced voltage and not the actual battery voltage. I'm not sure how his results worked out. You'd probably have to switch out one of the voltage divider resistors to allow a higher battery voltage to sampled without overloading the ADC pin. The specs on the FET he used look OK. A better one might be found today since his post is 9 years old now.

 

[The_Driver]

Do have all the specs written down somewhere? I'm not quite sure how to go about this...
I need a voltage regulator of type X which does what?

 

[JimmyM]

Do have all the specs written down somewhere? I'm not quite sure how to go about this...
I need a voltage regulator of type X whcoh does what?

I just looked up the part number he used in the thread you linked. Basically, you want a 60V mosfet with a logic level gate (5V gate) and as low as possible Rds(on). The one I use is 3.8mOhm I believe. Is your intent to re-solder one as a replacement on the board? If so, you want the DPAK package size (not DPAK2). The new voltage regulator will step down your battery voltage to 7V-35V for the regulators onboard regulator to take over from there. 12V regulators are easy to find. The catch is that you'll have to replace R1 with a higher resistance value (it's 357K now) so the uC can sample the battery voltage correctly. Something in the 510K area should work depending on your max battery voltage. Then you need to cut the trace going from R1 to the center connection and input your battery voltage directly to the R1 side of the cut trace. It's not a little thing you're trying to do. If you accomplish all of this, it may not fit under the KIU socket base any more.

 

[JimmyM]

The IRLR3636 is a 60V FET with Rds(on) of 8.3mOhm at 5V gate drive. It's going to dissipate more heat due to its higher Rds(on). But should perform well on a single bulb.
The regulator is a Maxim MAX15006 regulator. It's max rated input is 40V. So you really can't exceed that with that part. Maxim makes higher voltage rated parts, but they're not quite pin compatible. So you'll need an external regulator to drop Vbat down to say 12V. There are literally 1000s of parts that would work. You'd have to research.

 

[The_Driver]

Thanks for your help Jimmy!

I don't know yet what I will do with this regulator that I have left. It just seemed like a nice idea to try out a 400W bulb.

 

[JimmyM]

Thanks for your help Jimmy!

I don't know yet what I will do with this regulator that I have left. It just seemed like a nice idea to try out a 400W bulb.

I agree. That thing would be a monster.

 

[The_Driver]

What I already have in planning is upgrading my 120W hotwire with new batteries (mine are 6 years old and there are now newer protected, high-current cells) and a 250W bulb. This became interesting after I found out that Osram actually makes a 250W 50h bulb with an axial filament (64652)! I strongly prefer those after having used both kinds. The standard high-wattage bulbs with transverse, rectangular filaments create very ugly beams.