Sold/Expired Sigma Customs

[the0dore3524]

Wow, very lucky! Anyone else wanna give up their spot? [emoji57]

 

[Espionage Studio]

I have one for sale. Sorry if this isn't appropriate to post, I'm not trying to step on Devins toes. I didn't want to weasel out of buying mine as I asked to be on the list and felt obligated to purchase the light. I am not in a position to be able to afford the light and will be losing a couple dollars on my sale but if anyone wants a beautiful titanium Nichia 219c version it's for sale here on the forum. Devin, thanks again for the light it truly is a work of art. Good luck to all seeking a Sigma, they are very nice.

 

[Ozythemandias]

I have one for sale. Sorry if this isn't appropriate to post, I'm not trying to step on Devins toes. I didn't want to weasel out of buying mine as I asked to be on the list and felt obligated to purchase the light. I am not in a position to be able to afford the light and will be losing a couple dollars on my sale but if anyone wants a beautiful titanium Nichia 219c version it's for sale here on the forum. Devin, thanks again for the light it truly is a work of art. Good luck to all seeking a Sigma, they are very nice.

I want commend you on your integrity and to point out how rare it is to find someone like you who'll take a loss to stand by his commitments.

And while I'm showering praise, Devin linked me to your post knowing I was looking for one. All around good folk here :grouphug:and I would've taken it if I didn't just buy the Boss.

 

[jmarsh86]

Il take your beautiful titanium Nichia 219c if it is still available, Happy to pay what you paid for it

 

[the0dore3524]

Il take your beautiful titanium Nichia 219c if it is still available, Happy to pay what you paid for it

If you're referencing Espionage Studios, then it sold earlier today I think. Unless you were the one who bought it of course [emoji6]

 

[Jason207]

In for copper..contact me please for details

 

[Ozythemandias]

Regarding the warning to not use FET of the H17f, is that a real concern? How does the Boss have 2x18350 on the "afterburner" mode work without frying the switch?

Anyone try it regularly or had any negative experiences?

 

[gunga]

I think there is evidence suggesting that the McClicky can handle 5-6A. I'm unsure, but this is based on reading it somewhere (official spec is around 3A I believe).

If you use a 219C triple, with a high discharge battery and a fet, you can hit 8-10A (note that the fet in an H17F has higher internal resistance so will not produce as much current as a dedicated fet driver).

I have had situations where I accidentally overdrive a McClicky. The spring collapses due to high heat.

The Boss uses a very specific circuit, I don't think it has a fet (which acts like direct drive).

Also remember that with 2x 18350, you are doubling the voltage. So at 33 Watts, you are running about 4A. The recommended limit for 1 cell is about 17 Watts, which with 1 cell (4.2V), are running around 4A again.

 

[Ozythemandias]

I think there is evidence suggesting that the McClicky can handle 5-6A. I'm unsure, but this is based on reading it somewhere (official spec is around 3A I believe).

If you use a 219C triple, with a high discharge battery and a fet, you can hit 8-10A (note that the fet in an H17F has higher internal resistance so will not produce as much current as a dedicated fet driver).

So then FET with something like NCRB would be fine in that scenario?

 

[gunga]

Perhaps. One would need to measure tailcap current. You also don't want to run the battery too close to its limit. The ncrb has a lower max current limit but I'm unsure how it behaves in the specific direct drive conditions.

Also, read my update to the above post about the boss driver.

 

[Thetasigma]

I have one for sale. Sorry if this isn't appropriate to post, I'm not trying to step on Devins toes. I didn't want to weasel out of buying mine as I asked to be on the list and felt obligated to purchase the light. I am not in a position to be able to afford the light and will be losing a couple dollars on my sale but if anyone wants a beautiful titanium Nichia 219c version it's for sale here on the forum. Devin, thanks again for the light it truly is a work of art. Good luck to all seeking a Sigma, they are very nice.

No worries sir, I understand where you are coming from and am happy to see it go on to someone else.

Regarding the warning to not use FET of the H17f, is that a real concern? How does the Boss have 2x18350 on the "afterburner" mode work without frying the switch?

Anyone try it regularly or had any negative experiences?

High drive currents are outside the realm my intentions with the design, and well beyond what I consider reasonable max current (3A). My concerns are several, thermal limitations of the host size and surface area, battery capability, LED/Driver durability, and the switch.
I have not personally burnt out a McClicky yet as I do not test currents that are known to adversely affect the switch. That said, the higher resistance of the FET in the H17F makes accidental use of a FET channel and a battery like an LG HG2, less likely to burn the switch up, but it is beyond the thermal design of both the host and switch, hence not recommended.

If I recall correctly, the 371D board is able to convert the excess voltage into current, as the actual switch delivers 5A at 8.4V at a full charge in afterburner with capable batteries, to the driver. With a vF of around 3V such as a 219C being driven hard, that translates to about 10A of current to the LEDs themselves. This does create extreme amounts of heat, which without a design that has a large surface area such as a WASP or the Lux-RC lights, will severely reduce lifespan or possibly burnt out components entirely. See post #515 for correct information.

Back to the H17F, I have burnt up a driver with excess heat in a Sinner set up with 219Cs and an HG2 battery running the FET channel. Not switch related, but a point about excess heat, particularly when trapped in a titanium shell.

 

[Ozythemandias]

No worries sir, I understand where you are coming from and am happy to see it go on to someone else.



High drive currents are outside the realm my intentions with the design, and well beyond what I consider reasonable max current (3A). My concerns are several, thermal limitations of the host size and surface area, battery capability, LED/Driver durability, and the switch.
I have not personally burnt out a McClicky yet as I do not test currents that are known to adversely affect the switch. That said, the higher resistance of the FET in the H17F makes accidental use of a FET channel and a battery like an LG HG2, less likely to burn the switch up, but it is beyond the thermal design of both the host and switch, hence not recommended.

If I recall correctly, the 371D board is able to convert the excess voltage into current, as the actual switch delivers 5A at 8.4V at a full charge in afterburner with capable batteries, to the driver. With a vF of around 3V such as a 219C being driven hard, that translates to about 10A of current to the LEDs themselves. This does create extreme amounts of heat, which without a design that has a large surface area such as a WASP or the Lux-RC lights, will severely reduce lifespan or possibly burnt out components entirely.

Back to the H17F, I have burnt up a driver with excess heat in a Sinner set up with 219Cs and an HG2 battery running the FET channel. Not switch related, but a point about excess heat, particularly when trapped in a titanium shell.

Ok, great info. I'll measure current at the tail out of curiosity

 

[quazzle]

371D drives LEDs in series not parallel. We have at least 2000 of engines in hands, zero fails so far. Unlike all linear drivers, 371D engine uses switching regulation which has no power conversion loss (normally less than 5%) so this kind of driver generates a way less heat and of course, allows much wider supply voltage range.

 

[Thetasigma]

371D drives LEDs in series not parallel. We have at least 2000 of engines in hands, zero fails so far. Unlike all linear drivers, 371D engine uses switching regulation which has no power conversion loss (normally less than 5%) so this kind of driver generates a way less heat and of course, allows much wider supply voltage range.

So the switching regulator used is also capable of boosting the voltage from 3.7 volts to 9+ volts?

 

[quazzle]

the input voltage range is 2.5V to 9V. Yes,it boosts from 3.7 (down to 2.5) to the LED string voltage which is about 9-10V (depending on LED type/brand, mode, temperature). In all modes it also provide absolutely flat constant current regulation (no PWM). Some reference info (old version)

 

[Ozythemandias]

The Flashlight gods smiled upon me and blessed me with a Sigma!

Amazing piece of work and the ACME grip is really something. I was a bit hesitant, scared the 18650 would be too long and being the first ACME 18650 I didn't have any other pics to look at, but this is great. The bare aluminum feels sexy smooth, reminiscent of the signature Oveready anno smooth texture. Main difference is that unlike my Boss, I'm not scared of it sipping, ACME give great purchase.

I take slight issue with the pocket clip, it feels almost springy. In all fairness I haven't tried it other then played with at home (my signature is relevant here). Also, I suspect the acme will tear up clothing if the clip is too tight. Whatever the case, it's a minor issue if it proves to be one, easily replaceable. The 219c 5000k is an excellent neutral tint, very fitting for a bare aluminum body. I'm of the school that tint should match the body, e.g. warmer tints for copper etc.

The glow is neat, as is the blue boot, and the McBrat's ring is wonderful. H17f is proving to be a bit cumbersome to program but I'm working my way through it. Every time I use a programmable light, I'm in awe how intuitive Henry of HDS designed his UI to be. His is the only ui I don't need to read the manual to adjust the programming.

All in all, wonderful light with quality machining and even better customer service, Devin proves to be a stand up guy. What was once a grail only served to whet my appetite, I'm craving an 18500 alu-bronze model now.

 

[the0dore3524]

The Flashlight gods smiled upon me and blessed me with a Sigma!

Amazing piece of work and the ACME grip is really something. I was a bit hesitant, scared the 18650 would be too long and being the first ACME 18650 I didn't have any other pics to look at, but this is great. The bare aluminum feels sexy smooth, reminiscent of the signature Oveready anno smooth texture. Main difference is that unlike my Boss, I'm not scared of it sipping, ACME give great purchase.

I take slight issue with the pocket clip, it feels almost springy. In all fairness I haven't tried it other then played with at home (my signature is relevant here). Also, I suspect the acme will tear up clothing if the clip is too tight. Whatever the case, it's a minor issue if it proves to be one, easily replaceable. The 219c 5000k is an excellent neutral tint, very fitting for a bare aluminum body. I'm of the school that tint should match the body, e.g. warmer tints for copper etc.

The glow is neat, as is the blue boot, and the McBrat's ring is wonderful. H17f is proving to be a bit cumbersome to program but I'm working my way through it. Every time I use a programmable light, I'm in awe how intuitive Henry of HDS designed his UI to be. His is the only ui I don't need to read the manual to adjust the programming.

All in all, wonderful light with quality machining and even better customer service, Devin proves to be a stand up guy. What was once a grail only served to whet my appetite, I'm craving an 18500 alu-bronze model now.

Gosh damn! Very nice, but you're making me jealous now. Can't wait to pick up one of these myself [emoji6]

 

[Espionage Studio]

Congrats, nice looking light [emoji1360]

 

[Thetasigma]

the input voltage range is 2.5V to 9V. Yes,it boosts from 3.7 (down to 2.5) to the LED string voltage which is about 9-10V (depending on LED type/brand, mode, temperature). In all modes it also provide absolutely flat constant current regulation (no PWM). Some reference info (old version)

Thanks for the clarification, that is very good information to know.

The Flashlight gods smiled upon me and blessed me with a Sigma!

Amazing piece of work and the ACME grip is really something. I was a bit hesitant, scared the 18650 would be too long and being the first ACME 18650 I didn't have any other pics to look at, but this is great. The bare aluminum feels sexy smooth, reminiscent of the signature Oveready anno smooth texture. Main difference is that unlike my Boss, I'm not scared of it sipping, ACME give great purchase.

I take slight issue with the pocket clip, it feels almost springy. In all fairness I haven't tried it other then played with at home (my signature is relevant here). Also, I suspect the acme will tear up clothing if the clip is too tight. Whatever the case, it's a minor issue if it proves to be one, easily replaceable. The 219c 5000k is an excellent neutral tint, very fitting for a bare aluminum body. I'm of the school that tint should match the body, e.g. warmer tints for copper etc.

The glow is neat, as is the blue boot, and the McBrat's ring is wonderful. H17f is proving to be a bit cumbersome to program but I'm working my way through it. Every time I use a programmable light, I'm in awe how intuitive Henry of HDS designed his UI to be. His is the only ui I don't need to read the manual to adjust the programming.

All in all, wonderful light with quality machining and even better customer service, Devin proves to be a stand up guy. What was once a grail only served to whet my appetite, I'm craving an 18500 alu-bronze model now.

Thanks for the kind words sir, I'm glad you like the light.
Regarding the clip, they are meant for 18350 hosts so they have less tension on my hosts, but a McGizmo would be a little stiffer if that were of interest. The Okluma clip does seem to to play well with the Acme grip though.

 

[gunga]

Just bend it a bit more to increase tension. Easy fix.