Stenlight XP-G Upgrade?

[dirtycaver]

Anyone taken a stab at upgrading a Stenlight with XP-Gs?

I have an older (D series) one that I am seriously considering upgrading, however I have no experience mucking about inside this light. I believe the emitter size for the XP-G is similar to the original luxeon. Based on specs the XP-G R5's at the same drive currents would provide double the lumens of the original LEDs. So for the same run-times I'd get quite a bit more light.

The emission profiles are a tad different so the beam pattern might change a bit too. My light has the older clear optics - although I'd love to get my hands on one of the reflectors that was briefly made as a DIY upgrade a few years ago.

Dirtycaver

 

[Mark620]

Anyone taken a stab at upgrading a Stenlight with XP-Gs?

I have an older (D series) one that I am seriously considering upgrading, however I have no experience mucking about inside this light. I believe the emitter size for the XP-G is similar to the original luxeon. Based on specs the XP-G R5's at the same drive currents would provide double the lumens of the original LEDs. So for the same run-times I'd get quite a bit more light.

The emission profiles are a tad different so the beam pattern might change a bit too. My light has the older clear optics - although I'd love to get my hands on one of the reflectors that was briefly made as a DIY upgrade a few years ago.

Dirtycaver

That sounds good but...open your light up and look inside.
It is quite cramped and the XP-G R5 would not mount the same.

NSS 55638

 

[dirtycaver]

I agree, it might require a slightly different lead path. However, from the datasheets it looks like the die package is smaller than the Lux (even though it is square) and has a very nice emission pattern so should not be too hard to fit within the same space as the Lux while still playing nice with drop-in optics.

At least that is the general plan - thus my original inquiry.

Perhaps this string should be moved to the Homemade and Modified Flashlights Discussion Forum. Is there a way to do that?

Dirtycaver

 

[kevinm]

It's doable, but you might have to get some really small boards.

Mark, would you post a larger version of that photo, please?

Thanks,
Kevin

 

[NoFair]

If one turns down Cutters XP-G 10mm boards they are the same diameter as a luxeon or seoul (8mm). The height is also very close.

Should be doable... Now I really want a Stenlight...

 

[dirtycaver]

If one turns down Cutters XP-G 10mm boards they are the same diameter as a luxeon or seoul (8mm). The height is also very close.

Well that is good info. I actually thought my older Sten had Lux III's with a diameter of ~9mm or so, while the XP-G's were 3.45mm per side (and square) so the maximum dimension would be 4.8mm (diagonally).

Does the LED need to be on a piece of MCPCB or would I not just put the LED as it comes direct onto the Sten board?

I do know the newer Stens (F-series?) use fairly late model Lux Rebels (70's and 100's I think depending on if it is "premium" or not) and that the older Stens can be upgraded to the Rebel. Based on the data sheet the Rebel is 3.17x4.61. Perhaps the later model Sten boards look different inside.

Are the stock Sten LEDs already on a piece of MCPCB? Hard for me to tell from this photo (a C-series, mine is a D-series) not being familiar with the old Lux III die.

Perhaps I need to just open up my light...

I think the mod is doable without too much trouble but, not having experience, I want to get any lessons learned from those who have mucked with it in the past.

Based on forum searches, I do know some people did a P4 mod on the Sten a few years back. I'm quite surprised there have not been more recent XP-G or even XP-E upgrades.


Dirtycaver

 

[NoFair]

Does the LED need to be on a piece of MCPCB or would I not just put the LED as it comes direct onto the Sten board?

Yes it needs to be on a MCPCB or on copper slug or similar item that has good heat conduction and has a diameter of 8mm and

I bought my xp-gs and xp-es from Cutter on this board: XPG10SRO.

It is about 2mm thick and raises the xp-g to about the same height as the luxeon so the optic/reflector focuses properly.

Sadly I don't have a Stenlight so I don't know if the rebel variety is any different.

Sverre

 

[dirtycaver]

Mark, would you post a larger version of that photo, please?

EDIT (fixed so that link is correct/works):
Here is the link to a review with a closeup photo of a C-series. I tried to embed it in the last post but, for some reason, I don't think it worked. This is from a decent review of the light that includes many photos:
http://www.pbase.com/darklightimagery/stenlight

Jonah (aka Dirtycaver)

 

[kevinm]

That's a pretty nice cave! We don't have anything that big here in Crawlorado. And if those are your photos, get that battery pack outside the helmet!!! Even a frozen chocolate bar can make a helmet fail to protect your head. :thumbsup:

It looks like the LED's are attached directly to the circuit board. Hopefully, it's just a bit of thermal epoxy holding them down and they can be pried off. If that's the case, you're going to need the 8mm round boards.

Good luck!

Kevin

 

[bnemmie]

dirtycaver, How do you know what series your S7 is? Upgrading my S7 has been on my mind for a while.

 

[dirtycaver]

That's a pretty nice cave! We don't have anything that big here in Crawlorado.

Yeah - California is also a bit more crawly than the subway tunnels pictured in that review. Best part of the review is the comment left by the guy's mom.

And if those are your photos, get that battery pack outside the helmet!!! Even a frozen chocolate bar can make a helmet fail to protect your head.

Amen to the helmet comment, most folks don't realize that the mode of operation for suspension helmets is for deformation of the shell coupled with stretching of the webbing to absorb the impact. Energy can be transferred to anything on the inside, plus you need room to allow for the deformation/stretching. There is nothing in my helmet except for the occasional empty emergency plastic heavy gauge garbage bag. <end of sermon>

It looks like the LED's are attached directly to the circuit board. Hopefully, it's just a bit of thermal epoxy holding them down and they can be pried off. If that's the case, you're going to need the 8mm round boards.

From researching other posts I believe the LEDs are attached via a reusable sticky thermal pad. Beneath the pad are thermal paths through/into the main board. Baseline plan is to reuse the pads unless there is an argument to use something else.

Is there a source for 8mm boards? I've just seen 10mm ones like at Cutter.

Next step is to decide what LED bin to get (i.e. color)

How do you know what series your S7 is? Upgrading my S7 has been on my mind for a while.

The serial number was on the box that it comes in. Based on the internal photos it looks like it is also on a sticker on the board and the board is marked with the version letter (i.e. the unit in the review is probably C052).

Dirtycaver

 

[kevinm]

The only place I know of that has the 8mm boards in in Germany. Look here:

http://www.led-tech.de/de/High-Powe...-XP-G-R5-auf-Miniplatine-LT-1598_120_138.html

If you order some, I'd be interested in a couple, as would many others. The R5 flux 1B tint are very white (no blue). The neutrals are really nice. Creamy tint and flowstone looks a lot better.:tinfoil:

Have fun in the dark,
Kevin