SUV

[Vew]

Long time lurker here. I've been a member for almost 10 years now (can't see my post count/etc since a lot of stuff is disabled for < 3 post count). I lurk in your battery section a lot recently. I currently own two flashlights - a Surefire C2 Centurion that has been demoted to bedside light because of its short runtime and eats up CR123s. I also own an Armytek Predator Pro 2.5 that spends its time on a bag that is with me 50% of the time. I like the predator a lot except I wasn't very happy with the quality/reliability. I had problems with it flickering caused by a faulty tailcap and the replacement one they sent me fits terribly (sent direct from China).

Anyway, I'm looking for a light I can keep in the SUV 24/7. I want to keep it mounted and charged up somewhere in the vehicle when I need it. Among my friends and family, I'm the first to be called to help from figuring out why their car won't start to searching for a lost pet. I prefer 18650 because it's a good standard among lithium ion batteries. I'm open to others. I will wire/build any circuitry required (I'm an electrical engineer) in my vehicle to maintain a healthy battery, both for my vehicle and the flashlight. Again, which is why I prefer 18650 because it's cheap and easy to replace. With that being said if an 18650 light is recommended I prefer one with built in safety limits in the flashlight for freedom of use of unprotected cells. I also prefer to not have to remove the battery to charge so I can grab it and go.

I went ahead and filled out the checklist. Thanks for taking the time to get at least this far .

==================Flashlight Recommendation Checklist================

1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?

This will be Online (location doesn't matter).

2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest!

Up to $200 (can't justify any higher if it risks getting my vehicle broken into but I'm open again on this)

3) Format:

I want a flashlight (hand held/self contained)

4) Size:

Don't care.

5) Emitter/Light source:

LED

6) Manufacturer:

Don't care

7) What power source do you want to use?

I intend to use Rechargeable cells based on less common formats (18500 or 18650 Li-Ion, RCR123, et-al).
I prefer 18650 powered, but I can settle for others.

7a) If you have selected a rechargeable option

I want a light that has a recharging adapter (your typical "wall wart")
OR
I want a light that snaps into a cradle (usually mounted on a wall)

I intend on keeping it plugged into the vehicle on a switched outlet. I prefer not to remove the battery to do this. I can custom build anything outside of the flashlight to fit these needs.

8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need?

Ideally, I want a light that has multiple modes from being able to read a map, to fixing something under a hood, to searching for a lost dog in the woods type scenarios.

X SPECIAL NOTE: Burst/Turbo mode Category -

I'm OK with this.

9) Flood vs Throw: Flood covers an area, Throw reaches out to a distance.

Don't care as long as I can meet 8.

9a) Distance: How far away will you typically need to see with this light (check all that apply)

A foot up to several feet. Again, this is for vehicle use/emergencies.

10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum continuous output).

30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)
90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)

Anything within this range would be acceptable to me


11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is very accurate for flashlights.

Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).

12) Switch Size, Type, and location (choose all that apply):

I don't care.

13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.

I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)

Jesus, 5-16? Anything 3 or more is acceptable.

14)Material/Finish/Coating

I don't care.

15) Water resistance

IPX7 (Waterproof to 1 meter/30min)

I can be convinced of more or less.

16) Storage conditions

Automobile glove-box (wide temperature swings, long standby periods, critical reliability)

Probably the SUV's gate area since that's where my lithium jump box is. I'll end up mounting it all for neatness/ease of access.

17) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any/all below.

None

 

[1DaveN]

Fenix UC35. You can charge it from any decent USB charger or the car port/lighter adapter, and it'll also take CR123 primaries (maybe better in extreme weather?). I have the PD35, which is the non-rechargeable version, and in my opinion it's an awesome light. Any comparisons I've seen favor the UC35, which people say dissipates heat better.

By the way, I think any decent looking light risks getting your vehicle broken into these days. I try and keep anything that might be popular with thieves out of sight, even if it's not really worth anything.

 

[Vew]

Thanks for the suggestion. It looks like a promising light, and I've always heard good things about fenix.

I'm going to make an assumption and guess in-flashlight charging 2x 18650 lights are rare bc of the need for a balancing circuit? Or do they just not stack them end to end? 2x seems overkill for my needs so maybe I'm just getting off topic.

 

[stanmore]

My choice would definitely be my new Klarus RS20. Seems to fit most points on your list...
Costs under $110 on Amazon, functions as a decent flashlight with 4 brightness modes that are well spaced between 1 and 1050 lumens, and SOS function on the main light. Also has a surprisingly bright, diffused sidelight which would be great for a lantern type use (photos don't do it justice - it hurts to look at!). Sidelight is multicolors and also has an SOS function and a flashing beacon.
Uses one 18650, a proprietary model is included when you buy it, this can be charged inside the light via a magnetic charger (from USB), but if that fails, standard 18650s and CR123s work fine. Klarus make a matching, self-adhesive dock which holds the light and charger which seems pretty clever. I don't have it yet, but I was planning on using this light for the same reason as you, so I may soon acquire it!
As this is my newest light, I can't offer any more first-hand info, but I car seriously vouch for the typical Klarus quality, I also have the XT11 and XT2C which ar both amazing, just not rechargeable.

 

[Vew]

Thanks for the recommendations. I ended up ordering a UC35 for $54. I'll have to coble together a mount or something for it. I find it interesting that on most built in rechargeable, you must initiate a charge on it which would indicate that you cannot just leave it in the vehicle all the time to charge. I figure they would have programmed it to automatically start when plugged in and keep it at a safe cut off and initiate when it drops below a certain voltage. I assume this is probably the same for external 18650 chargers? Unfortunately, this changes what I had planned since my Anker pack which I received yesterday is the same way. Charge must be initiated.

 

[Str8stroke]

I like the specs on the Olight R20 Seeker. It comes with a car charging kit, or USB charging. What is cool about that is you can use one of those 12 volt to USB outlets. Also, you can carry a USB back up battery to charge it with.

 

[KeepingItLight]

16) Storage conditions

Automobile glove-box (wide temperature swings, long standby periods, critical reliability)

Probably the SUV's gate area since that's where my lithium jump box is. I'll end up mounting it all for neatness/ease of access.

During the hot days of summer, the top part of a glove box will often be the hottest part of your vehicle. Sunlight hitting the dashboard is easily transferred to the glove box. Low in the center console is a much better place to store a flashlight.

Lithium primaries handle temperature extremes better than rechargeable Li-ion.

 

[Vew]

During the hot days of summer, the top part of a glove box will often be the hottest part of your vehicle. Sunlight hitting the dashboard is easily transferred to the glove box. Low in the center console is a much better place to store a flashlight.

Lithium primaries handle temperature extremes better than rechargeable Li-ion.

I understand your concern. As I mentioned, it'll be charged and stored in the gate area. I have an 12v aux back there in the 4runner. It didn't seem pertinent to mention in the post, but I'm an EE. For the fun of it, I could throw in a temperature logger in the glove box and the gate if people are curious. Unfortunately, I think we just missed the hottest days as temperatures are getting rapidly milder. Thanks for keeping an eye out on a "new" member though.

 

[KeepingItLight]

I understand your concern. As I mentioned, it'll be charged and stored in the gate area. I have an 12v aux back there in the 4runner. It didn't seem pertinent to mention in the post, but I'm an EE. For the fun of it, I could throw in a temperature logger in the glove box and the gate if people are curious. Unfortunately, I think we just missed the hottest days as temperatures are getting rapidly milder. Thanks for keeping an eye out on a "new" member though.

Yeah, I figured you knew what glove box temperatures can do to batteries.

A couple of years ago someone in the southern USA, possibly Texas or Florida, reported on a test they did with a logging thermometer. Closed all the windows, and parked an Audi and a BMW in the sun, logging temperatures throughout both vehicles. The hottest temp, as I recall, was around 140F (or a bit higher). That was recorded inside a glove box, at the top. The coolest temps were found low in the center console and trunk.

If any reader has a link to that study, please post it for me. I need to add it to my data store.

 

[Vew]

Yeah, I figured you knew what glove box temperatures can do to batteries.

A couple of years ago someone in the southern USA, possibly Texas or Florida, reported on a test they did with a logging thermometer. Closed all the windows, and parked an Audi and a BMW in the sun, logging temperatures throughout both vehicles. The hottest temp, as I recall, was around 140F (or a bit higher). That was recorded inside a glove box, at the top. The coolest temps were found low in the center console and trunk.

If any reader has a link to that study, please post it for me. I need to add it to my data store.

Good stuff. I'll check the weather next week and do some logs on my Thermoworks BlueTherm if they'll still reach the high 80s. I work next to the tarmac and have a dark vehicle so it'll get plenty of sun.

 

[Tac Gunner]

An Eagletac GX25L2 sounds perfect for ya or wait for the new GX30L2DR. I have the Sx25l2t which is the 26650 version with the turbo head (for more throw) and love the light. I highly recommend it.

Edit: Didn't read completely that you ordered the uc35, good choice though!

 

[KeepingItLight]

Good stuff. I'll check the weather next week and do some logs on my Thermoworks BlueTherm if they'll still reach the high 80s. I work next to the tarmac and have a dark vehicle so it'll get plenty of sun.

Great! I'll be watching.

 

[Vew]

Forgot to post last night. ~90°F ambient, sunny (dark vehicle). Peaked 115°F in the gate area and 126°F in the glovebox. I forgot to enable max/min temp, so those temperatures could be off by a couple degrees, but you get the idea. Storage temperatures for lithium ion are not supposed to exceed 60°C (140°F). Obviously, the cooler its stored the better, but you can see how easily you could exceed that.

 

[KeepingItLight]

Forgot to post last night. ~90°F ambient, sunny (dark vehicle). Peaked 115°F in the gate area and 126°F in the glovebox. I forgot to enable max/min temp, so those temperatures could be off by a couple degrees, but you get the idea. Storage temperatures for lithium ion are not supposed to exceed 60°C (140°F). Obviously, the cooler its stored the better, but you can see how easily you could exceed that.

Yup. Today, I found the test I referred to in my message above. This fellow recorded temps above 185°F where the sun was directly striking his dashboard. He got a couple of 140°F measurements in the glove box. Here's a link to his report.

1996 BMW Interior Temperature

 

[NoNotAgain]

Forgot to post last night. ~90°F ambient, sunny (dark vehicle). Peaked 115°F in the gate area and 126°F in the glovebox. I forgot to enable max/min temp, so those temperatures could be off by a couple degrees, but you get the idea. Storage temperatures for lithium ion are not supposed to exceed 60°C (140°F). Obviously, the cooler its stored the better, but you can see how easily you could exceed that.

I still don't recommend 18650 batteries for lights stored in the car or truck. The primary lithium is better suited for this application.

If you've got your mind set that the 18650 is going to be what you use, think about storing the light in a Styrofoam type container. I use a Tenba film storage bag for the lights I leave in the wagon and my truck.

I had a bunch of Temp Tale monitors which I left both inside and outside the bag for extended periods. When I recorded 136F inside the vehicle, I only saw 98F on the recorder inside the bag.