Sold/Expired TNT TripLED Surefire E-series incan bezel mod service

[46Alpha]

Just "relaxing" my mind with some sketches of P60 TripLED I'm planning to build for few of my P60 hosts... as eMt3, it would utilize aluminum/brass combo for lightweight and great heat transfer... custom programmed driver at 4.5 Amps (so each LED get's 1.5 Amps)... perfect fit for Surefire P60 hosts but with negative spring easily used in clone hosts as well... Been brewing the idea for long time and I guess it finally got to the point where I could build a proto...

 

[Mr.Freeze]

P60 TripLED

short, but nice! :rock:
no informations required, they must be great out of your hands...

 

[tobrien]

that will be amazing

 

[Tana]

Back to the original TripLED theme... Below photo shows difference between TripLED mk2 and TripLED mk3 - same performance, same custom firmware but different way of executing the driver installation (which is not visible when flashlight is assembled; you can't tell from outside, either by looks or performance, whether it's mk2 or mk3)...

mk3 looks cleaner and longer spring allows for less battery crush in custom/lego setups (like Malkoff MDC or U2E2 lego)...

 

[tobrien]

thanks for posting that. I'm still saving for a triple Mk3

 

[Tana]

P60 TripLED prototype:

 

[46Alpha]

P60 TripLED prototype:

Ok, I'm REALLY hoping this comes soon. Keep up the great work!

 

[Mr.Freeze]

holy cow, awsome pics!!!
as expected another professional build. can't wait for more details...

 

[tobrien]

omg yes!

 

[46Alpha]

So I just scored a nice C2 for a song. Badly in need of some drop-in love. Just saying, ya know, if you need a field tester for some P60 Triple hotness? I'd be HAPPY to volunteer. Just say the word. I'm here for you :twothumbs

 

[Tana]

Better believe P60 TripLED is happening... Had two things to fix on it but now it's sitting inside my bored C2 happily and awaiting assembly... I'm busy with few orders today so it might have to wait for a day or two...

Two things I have on mind now... my 6P and C2 have slightly different measurement inside where the module goes... to be precise, exactly 0.05mm (0.0019685") - flat vertical sides... this means that even if it slides with resistance in and out as not much air can escape beside the module as it slides in, I'm concerned about metal-to-metal contact... I'm thinking of making it SLIGHTLY thinner which would allow for one or two wraps of kitchen foil to be wrapped and then snug fit inside the host... just thinking out loud... I'll give this one hell in my bored C2, if it shows the same temp on module as on outside host after I warm it up and open, then I shouldn't be concerned about this...

Also... Although I can flash the driver with simple setups that I was doing on my SingLEDs/TripLEDs/Reflector mods, I'm looking into getting some more complex flashed drivers that would allow user freedom to setup the module per his/her wish... It's a relatively well known firmware from well known German programmer but I need to ask his permission in order to copy/paste what the driver is capable of and if it's of any interest over simple setups like Low/High, Low/Medium/High with or without memory and such...

 

[46Alpha]

Sounds like good stuff! Looking forward to see how this progresses.

As always, great work Tana!

Better believe P60 TripLED is happening... Had two things to fix on it but now it's sitting inside my bored C2 happily and awaiting assembly... I'm busy with few orders today so it might have to wait for a day or two...

Two things I have on mind now... my 6P and C2 have slightly different measurement inside where the module goes... to be precise, exactly 0.05mm (0.0019685") - flat vertical sides... this means that even if it slides with resistance in and out as not much air can escape beside the module as it slides in, I'm concerned about metal-to-metal contact... I'm thinking of making it SLIGHTLY thinner which would allow for one or two wraps of kitchen foil to be wrapped and then snug fit inside the host... just thinking out loud... I'll give this one hell in my bored C2, if it shows the same temp on module as on outside host after I warm it up and open, then I shouldn't be concerned about this...

Also... Although I can flash the driver with simple setups that I was doing on my SingLEDs/TripLEDs/Reflector mods, I'm looking into getting some more complex flashed drivers that would allow user freedom to setup the module per his/her wish... It's a relatively well known firmware from well known German programmer but I need to ask his permission in order to copy/paste what the driver is capable of and if it's of any interest over simple setups like Low/High, Low/Medium/High with or without memory and such...

 

[Madpayas0]

Any idea as to OTF lumens for the P60 triple? Which leds are you gonna use?

 

[flat-ray]

Niice!

 

[Tana]

Any idea as to OTF lumens for the P60 triple? Which leds are you gonna use?

At 4.5 Amps well over 1000 OTF lumens with XPG2 (well, same outputs as all other TripLEDs giving 1.5 Amps to each LED)... 219B will be less as will XPE2 but 219B will give better light quality and hi-cri while XPE2 will give more throw...

So the LED choice is the same as for TripLED mod on e-series heads... XPG2, XPE2, 219B, color XPE2... if I don't have any particular LEDs with me I can order, same as with TripLED customization...

 

[Tana]

OK, so I'm in contact with custom programmer, Dr. Jones who is, as some of you know, probably the best programmer out there to mess with programming this type of drivers... I just dropped an order for 4ea testing 105c 3.05 Amps drivers and I'll wait for them to arrive to finalize this P60 TripLED I have ready... I can custom program these drivers but they will have simple UI, like 2-mode, 3-mode, 4-mode or 5-mode with or without memory - what I've been doing for more than half a year on my mods... however, "lucidrv" firmware he has already developed seems great as it is - so instead of trying to reinvent the wheel, I would use his firmware which would give fully customizable module where you can change pretty much everything... here's how it performs, let me know if you like the idea... it would raise the overall price for extra $6 but I believe few of you will find it worth it...

lucidrv

This is the successor of lupodrv with a somewhat more intuitive programming UI; it also features two mode groups.
Two mode groups: You can have two mode groups for different situations (e.g. one for indoors with moon and low modes, and one for outdoors with high/med). Each group is fully configurable with up to 7 modes and it's own memory type (see below).
Mode locking: Select any mode and use it for a second, then activate mode lock (see below). Then that mode is locked, it won't change to next mode any more (unless you unlock it again). Good for tactical or signaling purpose.
Programming: You can change any mode to a different brightness, strobe or beacon; you can change the number of modes (1-7) in each group, and you can change the memory type for each group (see below)(no-memory, classic memory, short-cycle memory).
Configuration menu (programming mode): Select a mode and use it for at least a second. That mode is then the selected mode for some of the actions below. Then enter programming mode by 8 rapid taps (half-presses; the light must be <0.2s on each time). You have to be quite fast, however it's no problem if you tap a few times more.
Shortly after those rapid taps a blinking signal will be shown. This serves two purposes: It indicates that the light is now in its configuration menu (programming mode) and awaits further input, and it also serves as battery level indicator: The number of blinks indicates battery voltage, about one blink for every 0.1V above 3.0V without load (~12 is full, ~4 is pretty empty). If you let them pass without tapping the button again, the config menu is exited without any change.
If you want to change the configuration, you need to 'input' more taps while the blinking signal is active, the number of taps specifies the action. Note that the timing is more relaxed in the config menu; you have to be swift and uninterrupted, but by far not as rapid as the 8 taps above. However you must hit the exact number of taps.
Once you entered the config menu (by 8 rapid taps) and see it's signal, tap the button a number of times to do the following:

• 1 tap: Mode lock; lock the selected mode (see above). If locked, unlock.
• 2 taps: Switch between the two groups (also lifts a mode lock).
• 3 taps: Set brightness. The light will ramp the brightness up and down twice in 16 visually linear steps (the output doubles/halves every 2 steps). Tap once when the desired brightness is reached to change the selected mode to this brightness (constant brightness).
• 4 taps: Change the selected mode to strobe.
• 5 taps: Change the selected mode to beacon (a blink every ~10s)
• 6 taps: Delete the selected mode.
• 7 taps: add a mode; the new mode is inserted at the position of the selected mode. Example: If you have 3 modes, L/M/H (with M selected), then add a mode, the result is L/M/M/H, i.e. the selected mode is doubled, and the first of them is selected. It can then be changed by entering the config menu again.
• 8 taps: Set the memory type for the active group to no-memory.
• 9 taps: Set the memory type for the active group to classic memory (cycle through all modes).
• 10 taps: Set the memory type for the active group to short-cycle memory (after memory kicked in, skip to first mode; see above).

Battery monitoring: Whenever the battery falls below 3V under load, brightness is reduced (about half). The reduced load usually brings up the voltage a bit. When it drops below 3V again, brightness is halved again - and so on, down to a very low level. It will not switch off and leave you in complete darkness though.
PWM frequency is 18 kHz.
Note: The brightness ramp hast 16 steps, from #16(100%) downwards the output halves every 2 steps. The lowest modes however deviate from that due to limited PWM resolution, also the actual output on the lowest modes depends on hardware variations like LED forward voltage.
The levels (in %) are: ~.2 .7 1 1.5 2 3 4 6 9 13 18 25 35 50 70 100

 

[hombreluhrs]

Tana that sounds good to me ....definitely worth an extra 6 bucks

 

[ma tumba]

The more I use my triple nichia light from Tana the more I like it. About everything in this light is perfect to my taste except maybe one pretty minor thing, but worth considering for the future lights.

The driver, like almost any driver I have dealt with, changes modes based on the amount of time the light was ON at a specific level. This makes momentary mode inconvenient, because momentary usually means "short", and if your burst of light is too short then you go to the next level when you dont want to. So I am sure that the right way to go is to measure time the light stays OFF BETWEEN 2 levels. Then the only way you would get to high modes would be to make a series of clicks fast enough. This is how the driver used in oveready lights works.

Does anyone know if there exists an off-the-shelf driver similar to the oveready's one in this respect?

 

[tjhabak]

Hands down, Tana builds the best mods for the money. I have several triples built by him in E series and KL4 heads. They are perfect! Now these P60 triple modules look out of this world! Gotta start scrounging for a worthy host. It wouldn't feel right stuffing one into a Solarforce Lol!

 

[Madpayas0]

When the P60 is ready I'm in for one.