To mill, or not to mill, that is the question:

[xith]

My first ever McGizmo, a XML Haiku (with a hand picked emitter mind you) will be arriving very soon in the mail..


I just can't, for the life of me, decide if I want to have PrecisionWorks mill some trit slots in this work of art.



Persuade me... either way


-Xith

 

[chaoss]

I considered this very option for my HICRI Haiku and ultimately decided against it.
When you get the light i suggest using it for a while and then decide for yourself if adding the trit option would benefit you and your specific needs.

PW does great work with the mill and a tritted Ti light does have it's benefits.

 

[fyrstormer]

As long as the slots are deep enough to allow the tritium vials to be completely covered with epoxy (which can then be sanded and polished smooth to match the light body, since titanium is a bare uncoated metal), I say go for it. The worst that can happen is you decide you don't like it, sell it to someone who does like it, and buy another to use as-is.

 

[xith]

I love the trit fob that hangs from the ti quark that sits on my night stand... but I don't like lanyards on EDC lights... and I most certainly will be carrying the Haiku.


SOOO.. I'm kinda leaning towards getting it milled for at least a few trits (maybe 3 around the tail shroud?)

That's a great point fyrstormer, since I will be carrying the light, it'll need to hold up to periodic cleanings and/or polishings.


Thanks for the input...

Anybody else have any opinions? Tasty trit in McGizmo pix to share?


-Xith

 

[fyrstormer]

3 slots around the tail is what I've been thinking of having done as well. If you go for it, make sure to post pics after completion.

Norland epoxy will have no trouble holding up to cleaning. I scrub all my lights with a toothbrush and the trit slots are all fine.

 

[RedLED]

I want to have slots added in the clicky pack three, maybe four. This way I send the pack not the entire light and since I have several lights with the pack system I still retain all my lamp heads.

I think it is a worthwhile addition, and as has been stated PW does perfect work.

This is what I think I will do.

The other thing I want to ask Pete gray is if he can make me one of his "Monster Lantern Beads" with 1.55 X 5 trits installed?

 

[tino_ale]

Tritium vials if properly installed in a properly milled pocket are just too cool to skip

 

[Henk_Lu]

I'm about to send my Haiku to Barry to get some slots milled in there...

Some time ago, I had already trits installed in some McGizmo paks. As RedLed, I've never sent the heads until now, only the paks. That way I'm not so nervous when the parcel crosses the ocean twice.

This time however, I'll send the whole light. Unlike the previous work I had done (9 trits vertically in the tail), the trits will now be installed horizontally, in the head, in the shoulder and in the tail. Yeah, I'm a trit whore, I can't get enough of those little glowing sticks I guess.

I suggest you only have pak done in the beginning. If you don't like it (which I doubt), you can exchange paks with another Haiku owner, lots of them would want a tritted body for sure...

 

[fyrstormer]

Out of curiosity, xith, what is the hand-picked emitter in your light?

 

[xith]

Out of curiosity, xith, what is the hand-picked emitter in your light?

XML T3 E7 3000K warm

-Xith

 

[souptree]

Do it!! :wave:

 

[precisionworks]

A little late to the party & I cannot believe I didn't see this thread Lots of good info already & I want to add only a bit more.

As long as the slots are deep enough to allow the tritium vials to be completely covered ...

Totally agree frystormer. There are three location on the Haiku (head, shoulder, tail) and all have plenty of depth for a 1.5mm diameter vial (meaning the slot needs to be 1.70mm-1.72mm deep to allow Norland coverage). The larger 2mm vial (which needs 2.20mm-2.21mm depth) easily fits in the tail & shoulder. Fitting the 2mm in the head means locating the slot as far to the rear as possible:

The image above shows that there isn't too much titanium separating the back of the head from the first fin groove. Go any farther forward & the bottom of the slot perforates the head cavity - not a deal breaker if that's what the owner wants but better to be avoided.

(Norland) can then be sanded and polished smooth to match the light body, since titanium is a bare uncoated metal

That's something that's rarely ever mentioned on the forums but Norland responds well to the same type of ultra-fine polish used for removing scratches from aircraft windshields. If the Norland on a light gets scratched look for a "plastic headlight restoring polish". Norland is hard & polishes slowly but it will look better than new after polishing. Amazon carries a number of products as do auto supply stores.

The first Haiku that I slotted is my own & the slots alternate:

The blue trits have lots of Ti under the bottom of the slot but the slots under the green ones cut into the O-ring groove. When someone wants the slots to run parallel with the body I explain what will happen ... most still want it done that way