Tritium slot machining

[precisionworks]

I did hear back fram Dave. He said there is enough metal in the grooves of a Spy to machine it for trits between the slots of the rail adapter area.

Dave designed & manufactured the Spy, knows it better than anyone else on earth & has the fixtures already built to hold the body. My suggestion is to send the light to Dave & have him mill the slots.

I wouldn't try it on my own light & I certainly wouldn't try it on yours.

The Spy is a light that I will not modify in any way.

 

[Omega73]

I have a Nitecore MT26 and I'd like to know if it's possible to have this mod done, and where would your personal suggestion be for the lights ?
I like the ones that you showed that were in the handle of the C2 centurian, that looks great.

 

[precisionworks]

I've never milled a MT26 ... not sure where there's enough thickness for slots.

 

[JJohn]

Have you ever put a 1.5 x 5mm or a 2 x 6mm slot on a zebra light SC-51? I assume the tail would be too thin. How about above the switch near the bezel? Can you do it and what would this cost? Would it look okay/good milling a hard anodized surface? Would this coating chip or look ragged around the trit? I would want the slot deep enough to protect the vial from impact as during night hikes it is not uncommon to trip and fall. I know this is not a great looking custom light, but it is the one I use for backpacking and it would help make it easier to locate in a dark tent.

Thanks for any advice!

 

[precisionworks]

Around the switch looks like the best plan for 1.5x5mm vials.

Would it look okay/good milling a hard anodized surface? Would this coating chip or look ragged around the trit?

Hard ano mills clean & crisp. The lower slot in the M4 shows how the tool cuts through the knurling & leaves a precise edge.

Cost for 1.5x5mm slots in aluminum is $12 each.

 

[JJohn]

Around the switch looks like the best plan for 1.5x5mm vials.


Cost for 1.5x5mm slots in aluminum is $12 each.

Thanks! Would a single 2x6mm fit right above the switch? Would one that size look good there? I think that would be my preference.

If the bigger one won't work there, I will just go with the 1.55mm x 5mm ones that B@rt sells. So that would be placed in the middle position shown in your image, where I wanted the bigger one, between the bezel and the switch. Or would one on each side look better? What is the next step? Do I paypal you and then you give me an address to send the light?

 

[precisionworks]

Without having the light here to measure I can't tell what size will fit. The 1.5x5mm is always a safe bet. Larger sizes need not only more length (not a problem) but much more depth ... which may or may not be available.

You're welcome to send the light & trits but payment isn't due until the work is completed.

 

[JJohn]

Without having the light here to measure I can't tell what size will fit. The 1.5x5mm is always a safe bet. Larger sizes need not only more length (not a problem) but much more depth ... which may or may not be available.

You're welcome to send the light & trits but payment isn't due until the work is completed.

Sorry for all the questions. It sounds like the easiest thing to do is to go with two slots for 1.55 x 5 mm trits. Between the switch and the bezel, on each side of the center line should work well. The metal looks the thickest there. A symetrical placement should look nice. I trust you will decide the best placement for machinability and for good looks.

Thanks! Please pm me the address to send the light. I assume that I don't send the trits as I will install them after the work is done. Is that right? I have Norland 61 and have used it before.

 

[precisionworks]

That sounds like a plan John. I have trits that are used to check slot sizing so no need to send any. PM's are disabled, please click the PrecisionWorks link in my sig line which links to the web site with the mailing address.

 

[JJohn]

I am excited about this mod but I have decided to wait until I get my new SC52 rather than putting the trits slots on my existing 51. Sorry about jumping the gun here. There will be a couple week delay before I send you the light. I'll pm you the day before I put it in the mail. Thanks!

 

[precisionworks]

The SC52 should be pretty similar:

 

[S.Martin]

New guy here and have a question. I have the opportunity to pick up a Ti TCR1 JetBeam. Can you mill trit slots around the head center and tail on it?

 

[precisionworks]

Welcome to CPF

Haven't handled one so cannot say for sure but this looks possible:

 

[S.Martin]

Welcome to CPF

Haven't handled one so cannot say for sure but this looks possible:

Passing on the Jetbeam. Picking up a SWM from a fellow member. Has trits but the original body. Can you cut grooves like the JetBeam? Or grind it to have a more aggressive look? If so, please pm me with what you can do. I hope I'm not asking too much. It's the one with the green trits.

 

[precisionworks]

For the V10R Ti a popular choice is the Haiku-style groove mod:

Cost for that is $75 + return shipping ($6 CONUS, $17 INTL). Etching is also removed from the bezel at the same time if you want.

 

[S.Martin]

Great. When it arrives, I'll send to you.

 

[arewethereyetdad]

Barry, you are truly the KING of trit groove installation. All your work is incredible. :twothumbs

 

[precisionworks]

All your work is incredible. :twothumbs

Thank you for your kind words Dad :thumbsup:

 

[S.Martin]

Still waiting on the torch from Mohan. In the meantime, I've picked up another and have an electronic switch coming from Ku, but no housing for the switch. Care to take on that challenge?

 

[precisionworks]

... have an electronic switch coming from Ku, but no housing for the switch. Care to take on that challenge?

I really try to avoid jobs where I have zero knowledge & I wouldn't know where to start on that one.