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v5 Triple BOSS Flashlight (Bright Output Small Size)

K2-bk-bl-rd

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Joined
Jan 17, 2008
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1,686
Slightly rosy tint for the 219b compared to whiter/greener for the 219c.

I'll take roses over grass anyday and prefer pleasant tint over extra, uglier, lumens.

I actually a Boss 35 Patina 219b from the second drop, for the reasons stated, but the tint ended up being cooler and greenish (not the lovely rosey tint) so not all 219b's have the beautiful tint! It might have just been my particular light. I have to say the 219C 4000k LED's have a very nice tint!
 

ElectronGuru

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Aug 18, 2007
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Oregon
Update

This was our largest release ever. We are trying new procedures to speed things up but may need through Saturday to get orders shipped. Most orders will be shipped together on the same day.

We didnt get the model ratios right on this launch. i've pulled remaining Satin sets and will repost with new ratios after the first ship

There seems to be some confusion on the 219. Nichia is renowned for hi cri but they don't launch with hi cri. The 219B was low cri until they made enough that they introduced CRI models. The B everyone knows is the better B. The 219C came out two years ago in low cri and in the rush for lumens developed a reputation for being cold and flat. The C everyone knows is the worse C. Only over the 2016-2017 winter did 219C finally come out in hi cri, and even then remains hard to find/buy. I've specifically avoided buying 219C until it had color to rival the 219B.

100% of 219C BOSS have a hand picked bin, with rich warm color. This is the best LED I've ever seen and will be going into more lights when I can improve supplies. Continued supply problems with the special bin means we'll be running out over the summer.
 
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Zak

Enlightened
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Aug 12, 2016
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257
That... does not match my experience with the 219C.

The 219C best known to the flashlight world over the past couple years is the 5000K, 80 CRI version. That emitter isn't the best on the market on any given metric. It's not as bright/efficient as an XP-L. It doesn't have the color rendering of the famous 219B R9050. It doesn't throw as far as an XP-G2. It might have actually won on forward voltage at the time, but the 319A beats it now.

What's great about that version of the 219C is that it it's good at everything. It has no significant weaknesses. 219Bs have great color, but they're not very bright and don't respond well to high current. XP-Ls and XP-G2s usually produce ugly light that washes out color. The XP-L HI is better about that, but not as good as the 80 CRI, 5000K 219C (if you like 5000K), nor significantly better in output or throw. The tint of that emitter is about the closest I've seen to the midday sun from an LED.

I've used 90 CRI 219Cs in both 4000 and 5000K. They're definitely nice, but I'd still give serious consideration to the 80 CRI version. In fact, just a few days ago, I put a pair of them in a Fenix TK25 R&B.
 

tab665

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May 8, 2009
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1,212
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north carolina
i got to say that my copper 70 219C has grown on me more and more. its just so damn small; especially when you compare the head next to the wasp head. I regretted going with the XP-L redome back when I got my wasp. I got lumen greedy; I went for "wow" over practical, (tiniest and brightest, runtime be damned). I knew exactly what I wanted this time... 18650 single cell operation, high color rendering, lower the output so the light is actually practical to carry and use (I still have the wasp programed for "wow"). the beam is perfect for outdoor cooking (I was on the fence between this and a sundrop). this isn't close to being my brightest flashlight; I didn't program it to be. instead I went with the LEDs, cell set up, and output levels to make this my ultimate outdoor cooking light. However, I'm still not a fan of the slight gap between the head and the body. I dip, so I get all kinds of tobacco particles in that ever so slight gap when it rides in my pocket. when I vacation next month I will be sure to give it the swim test and see how it holds up.
 

KITROBASKIN

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Mar 28, 2013
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New Mexico, USA
...I've used 90 CRI 219Cs in both 4000 and 5000K. They're definitely nice, but I'd still give serious consideration to the 80 CRI version.

Isn't there a significant loss of lumens going to the 90 CRI as compared to the 80 CRI?

I recently purchased a $17 dropin from mtnelectronics said to have the 5000K 219C. I believe the ad copy said 80 CRI but as delivered, there was nothing stated. I would say it is an honest attempt to replicate sunlight. It does not fare well in comparison with certain emitters on a white wall, but functions well in reality. The older 5000K 219C triple from customlites as well as the older, warmer Nichia from matchboxinstruments made browns more enhanced, more pretty, than sunlight, except on those rare sunrise or sunsets when the sky is a type of red from the atmosphere.

It is hard for me to justify the lumen hit that warmer emitters endure when they attempt to copy incandescent light, usually rather poorly, distractingly so (Cree). It will be interesting to get feedback from these dialed-in Hi CRI Nichia products. Do they have a slightly greenish yellow cast that in no way replicates incandescent from days of yore?
 

Zak

Enlightened
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Aug 12, 2016
Messages
257
The typical flux bins found are: 90 CRI: D240, 80 CRI: D280, 70 CRI: D320. These numbers are the minimum number of lumens the emitter should produce from 700mA, which means the absolute difference is the same between 90 and 80 CRI as it is between 80 and 70.

So when I swapped 80 CRI for 90 in a FET triple, I measured a loss of about 500 lumens at power-on (~3100 -> 2600). It just doesn't matter that much though; human perception of brightness is somewhere between square-root and cube-root. That means a 6 to 9% perceived difference from that 500 lumen loss. I really can't tell any difference in usable illumination, and chasing numbers that require instruments to detect just isn't as fun as bathing a huge area in beautiful light.

I prefer neutral tints from 4000 to 5000K, so imitating incandescents is definitely not my thing. maukka's testing shows a mild to moderate green deviation with some tints of 90 CRI 219C when used in a reflector. This matches my experience; the 90 CRI 5000K is a little greener than the 80 CRI that mtnelectronics has been selling for a couple years. The 3000K in maukka's test had very little tint deviation, so if you want something incandescent-like, that would be a good emitter. I'm reviewing a light right now that has a warm XHP50; it's a bit orange looking, but still not as warm as an incandescent.
 

KITROBASKIN

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Mar 28, 2013
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5,490
Location
New Mexico, USA
Very interesting information.

Seems like Oveready has it just right with the color temperature of emitters for most people. Wondering if the issue of blue light affecting humans plays a part in the decision.

Got out early this morning; Two images of copper BOSS 70

https://goo.gl/photos/CAqjgDxDjoA3akVk9

https://goo.gl/photos/gA4hVHNy2mV9j5Fe9

Looked on the website; one Beautiful brass BOSS available
 

Zak

Enlightened
Joined
Aug 12, 2016
Messages
257
I imagine availability plays a role. There seem to be a lot of 4000K, 90 CRI 219Cs on the market. You can order them from Kaidomain and mtnelectronics. They're optional in several Eagletac lights and found in a few straight-from-China products from Mankey, Reylight, Astrolux and others. Always 4000K, 90 CRI.

The 219C exists in other color temperatures at 90 CRI. A group buy on BLF offered 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K and 5000K. I don't know any place to buy those on demand in moderate quantities other than to wait for another group buy and I've never seen them offered in any production light.
 

Scribe

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Sep 7, 2016
Messages
163
The patina on my copper boss has really developed since I got it. Loving how it looks now.
 

mk2rocco

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Jan 26, 2015
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