What Makes A Zoomable Focus Round Rather Than As

Witterings

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EDIT: Hit something that posted the thread as I was correcting the title it should read
What Makes A Zoomable Focus Round Rather Than Square

Mods .... if you happen to see and can amend would be appreciated and if so just delete top part of thread to here :)

AS per title ... if I zoom an LED Lenser to max the hot spot is round rather than square with the contacts showing like an SK98 .. is there anything you can do with an SK98 to make it round rather than square i.e. change the LED or is it something that's actually built into the reflector or elsewhere????

If possible I'd also like a "tighter" focus .. I believe and XP-L Hi might help do that???
 
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jorn

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The lenser got a patented lense that looks more like a tir optick. A normal lense will make a square led project a square beam when its fully focused. If you put it a little bit out of focus, the beam will be round, but you will miss out on some throw.
 

Chicken Drumstick

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EDIT: Hit something that posted the thread as I was correcting the title it should read
What Makes A Zoomable Focus Round Rather Than Square

Mods .... if you happen to see and can amend would be appreciated and if so just delete top part of thread to here :)

AS per title ... if I zoom an LED Lenser to max the hot spot is round rather than square with the contacts showing like an SK98 .. is there anything you can do with an SK98 to make it round rather than square i.e. change the LED or is it something that's actually built into the reflector or elsewhere????

If possible I'd also like a "tighter" focus .. I believe and XP-L Hi might help do that???
Ok, a few things here. :grin2:


Lensers and Coasts use a TIR optic, this is a Total Internal Reflection lens. These lights tend to project a circle more so. Although this is often largely because the movement on the lens is limited, to prevent it projecting the LED image.

I have a P5 (it's a Poplite, but essentially identical to a Led Lenser P5), it uses an XR-E LED. If I unscrew the bezel I can move the lens further away from the LED and get it to project the LED dye and bond wires, exactly the same as the SK68 does.

The only thing I would say is, when doing this with the P5 the LED projection appears dimmer than when you get a round hot spot. I suspect that in order to project the LED, you have to move the lens too far from the optic and you loose lumens.


So my hunch is, most TIR optics are most efficient and will produce the most lux before projecting the LED image. Although on some examples, at full zoom, even though the hot spot looks round, if you rotate the light, you'll see the hot spot might be a little more square than you first thought. But this can be true of SMO reflector lights too that focus the beam tightly.


Most other zooming lights use an aspheric lens. These work quite differently to a TIR optic. And max lux is normally achieved when the LED image is projected. Why this is true with aspherics and how it differs to a TIR I do not know.


If you want a more round image with an aspheric, then the easiest thing is to slightly defocus the light. You'll loose a bit of lux, but will get a more useful beam.

Other options include using different LEDs. XP-G2's don't have visible bound wires running across the dye, but they do have a somewhat dappled look and when fully projected with give a weird spotty looking image. Again slightly defocusing will give a cleaner beam.

Another option is to use a round LED. Many Nichia LEDs have a round dye. So at full projection it will be a round beam. But you'll still see the LED detail, so the advantage is minimal.

This is a Nichia 219a in a Z8 (similar size to an SK68). The beam looks better in the pics than in person, as the projection was slightly dappled. But it worked quite well, although limited lumens.




I've also used the Cree XB-D in these small torches and they work quite well as they are largely round without visible bound wires.




Re: your second question though "If possible I'd also like a "tighter" focus .. I believe and XP-L Hi might help do that???"


Sadly there isn't a straight forward answer here. There are several things at play.


1. The LED

The LED itself will alter the beam profile. But there are a few things going on. With an zoomy used for throw, the surface brightness of the LED is important.

As a rule, smaller LED's have a higher surface brightness than larger ones (although this isn't always true). So these tend to throw further.

The old Cree XR-E is a great example. Very limited lumens, but a very small dye and high surface brightness make for a very good thrower. The EZ900 variant had an even smaller dye and can produce kick *** lux numbers today still. Nearly all original and older SK68's used to use the XR-E. Which is why they used to throw well for their size.

Something like an XM-L (or XM-L2) is a much bigger LED, but will have a lower surface brightness than the XR-E. This means, you get a lot more lumens, but the throw isn't as good. But the beam will be a lot broader. In small zoomy lights, the throw can be quite underwhelming with an XM-L emitter.


Where it gets difficult is, today the XP-E2 is the small Cree LED. But I'm lead to believe the XP-G2 has the same surface brightness, but 2.2 times the area. This means that the throw will be similar from both, but the XP-G2 will have a bigger beam and more lumens.


Other LEDs like Nichia's tend to be slightly bigger than the XP-G2 and with a lower surface brightness and lower lumen output. So while they can work in a zoomy, you won't be getting the most throw available.


2. The lens itself.

There are several factors of the lens that will affect throw and beam profile. The quality of the optic. And the focal length.

Given the same lens, an XM-L will result in a much larger projection than an XR-E. But it is possible to use a different lens on the XR-E and get a similar size projection to the XM-L.

But like reflector lights, this will often result in the need for a larger lens to achieve what you are wanting. Which means a physically larger light.




When you say "tight" beam, I'm not 100% sure what you mean though. As an SK68 with an XR-E can produce a tight beam, but it's limited physical size and lumen output limit it's throw ultimately. The same LED in a larger light could well throw further.

Or you can have larger lights with smaller beams.



Something I've not covered yet are de-domed LED's. A dome on a LED is like a small lens and changes the beam profile and angle the light is emitted at. Most Cree and some other LEDs you can remove this dome. The result is a more focused beam, but also a narrower beam. This will result in more throw. However can cause a tint shift.

The XP-L HI is essentially a de-domed emitter. It doesn't have a dome, it has a flat silicon cover. XP-L HI or a de-dome XP-L or XM-L2 will all give very very similar beams and outputs.

Here is an example of a de-domed emitter. These two torches are idential zoomys (Zeusray) with the same output and the same LEDs. As you can see the right hand beam, the de-domed one, is smaller, brighter and more intense.




To expand on the above. Here is an SK68 with the XR-E, now remember this is a small lens, so the image projection is fairly large considering the size of the LED. This is compared to the de-domed XM-L2 in the Zeusray. A bigger LED, but also a bigger lens. They result in almost the same size beam. But the higher lumen output, combined with the bigger lens mean the Zuesray is brighter and will throw further.





This is the same Zeusray again. But the other light is using an XP-G2, but has the same sized lens as the Zesray. See how when the lenses are the same size, that the smaller LED gives a smaller projection.

These throw a similar distance (the Zuesray slightly better). The XP-G2 is a much tigher laser like beam, but arguably less useful as it does light up a much smaller area.





And here is another example of different size LEDs in the same size lens. Here is an SK68 with an XR-E and the Trusfire Z8 with an XM-L (an XM-L Sk68 would look the same).

As you can, the Z8 illuminates a much bigger area. But what you can't see in these pics (because of the auto exposure on the camera I was using), is that the SK68 lights up it's area brighter. And will shine quite a bit further, despite probably only making 1/3rd the lumens.










___________

I'm not sure if I've answered your question or not, but hope I've given you enough info to help you understand the differences.
 
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Witterings

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Chicken Drumstick,
An awful lot of info for a newbie to take in so have been trying to digest it small bite size bits at a time but again so much useful information so thank you!!!!!!

When you say "tight" beam, I'm not 100% sure what you mean though. As an SK68 with an XR-E can produce a tight beam, but it's limited physical size and lumen output limit it's throw ultimately. The same LED in a larger light could well throw further.

You've hit the nail on the head here ... I love the tight beam my SK68 has ... if I were to describe my perfect torch it's be that bit brighter ..... a smidge bigger so it could take a 18650 for longer run time but not as big as it's bigger brother the 98 and have a round focus like the lensers.

You mentioned your POP Lite which is similar to the P5 ... is that the T62????? I saw a post in another forum where they'd done an upgrade that seemed quite interesting although again ideally could do with 20 mm's cut off the end.
 

fyrstormer

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An aspheric lense, like a parabolic reflector, has a single focal point, and it only functions correctly if the LED is positioned at that focal point. A "zoomable" lense has a range of approximate focal points, but the projected image of the die is always somewhat out-of-focus. A sufficiently-fuzzy square will look more-or-less like a circle.
 

liteboy

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Thanks CD for the lengthy read. I'm in market for a zoomie. Anyone have any suggestions on a good one? Budget is ~$100.
 

Witterings

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Thanks CD for the lengthy read. I'm in market for a zoomie. Anyone have any suggestions on a good one? Budget is ~$100.

Depends what size you want but I've just bought a Coast HP5R which I'm extremely impressed with, I particularly wanted a small torch, the retailer said for not much more money the HP7R was a brilliant torch.
I've had quite a few LED Lensers and wouldn't buy another unless you're looking for something to Mod in which case a their TT converted to 18650 and with a different driver to stop it stepping down would be a brilliant torch.
 
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akhyar

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Thanks CD for the lengthy read. I'm in market for a zoomie. Anyone have any suggestions on a good one? Budget is ~$100.

Jaxman Z1 seems to be well received over at the other forum.
They come in 2 flavours though, a single 26650 body using XM-L2 emitter or 2x 26650 body using XHP-50 emitter.

I have the Cometa which is supposed to be a clone of Z1 with better electronics, but they ended up poorly designed and built
 
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liteboy

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Depends what size you want but I've just bought a Coast HP5R which I'm extremely impressed with, I particularly wanted a small torch, the retailer said for not much more money the HP7R was a brilliant torch.
I've had quite a few LED Lensers and wouldn't buy another unless you're looking for something to Mod in which case a their TT converted to 18650 and with a different driver to stop it stepping down would be a brilliant torch.

I was thinking 18650 size. on skylumen (where Ive been spending all my money lately), there are two zoomies that caught my eye:

sunwayman T25Cvn

sky lumen zoom18
 

Kean

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The "square" spot created by the flashlight in spot mode is the convex lens "focusing" (like using a magnifying glass) in on the LED die itself and is acting like a film/slide projector. It is also a clue that you're not getting the most lumen bang for the buck. The clearer the focus the less light will go out the front (OTF) of the flashlight. All LED dies (including the domed ones) have a fairly wide dispersion pattern (+/- 60 ~ 80 degrees) and the zoomables take full advantage of that. By moving the LED die close to the front of the lens most of the light is collected via the convex lens and passed out the front of the flashlight. In order to have a zoom effect the manufacturer will move the LED die back away from the lens into the flashlight head creating a "tunnel" effect shrouding or blocking the wide dispersion of the LED light pattern. Some manufacturers choose not to go the the focal point of the lens/LED so the projected "image" of the LED die is fuzzy square. Those manufacturers that do "focus" in on the LED die are trying to get the smallest spot from the flashlight. You can actually see the details of the die itself (the LED segments and the connecting wire). Unfortunately the light that the LED is emitting that is NOT projected OTF and focused via the lens is lost inside the flashlight head. A quick test to prove this the case is to point the light at a wall or ceiling in a dark or blacked out room and zoom the flashlight in and out. You will find that the spot mode produces a lot less light in the room than the flood mode does.

In contrast a good zoomable will produce the SAME amount of reflected/bounced light (spot or flood) in a dark or blacked out room (reputable manufacturers will use something called an intergrating light sphere to measure this). That is because the manufacturer made the effort to collect all the "lost" light and send it out the front in both modes (most bang for your buck). The technique will vary slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer but the effect is the same. The spot beam will have 5 to 6 times the brightness compared to the flood (this is dependent on how wide [diameter] the flood pattern is compared to the spot pattern) but the TOTAL light will be the same. Most of the Led Lensers and the more expensive Coast flashlights will do this. I also found the Fenix FD 40 zoomable (my new EDC) works the same way. In the case of the Fenix it will rival a lot of the spot throwers but still have a nice flood beam all in one box. And at a 1000 lumens who can complain? Needless to say the Fenix has a round spot and a round flood and not the square spot merging into the round flood pattern the poorly built zoomables have.

Kean
 

bykfixer

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The Coast HP7R has a point near full spot that casts a perfect imprint of the die on a wall.

But sliding past that point is what makes it such a ridiculous thrower of those measly 200 lumens.
 
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