Why a good thermal path really matters

ergotelis

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Just want to provide some feedback on the DX copper star XML, it didn't work,
When I put a light together, it wouldn't lit up, some times emit a blink of light.

I ordered & received another one, same thing, initial test with a battery fine, after soldering
leads onto the star, it no longer work, again some rimes emit a blink of light.

I am down two for two on this Copper start XML, so I am out.

damn i think i will get dissappointed! :huh:

@CKOD, excellent work, this shows exactly what i believe too. Also, to validate your results, rerun you test @1amp to see the difference there!
 

MikeAusC

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. . . would it help to build a bead of heat conducting goo around the edge the ceramic tile, effectively conducting some heat thu the sides of the tile ? being pretty close to epicenter and all. if that tile is 4mm by 4mm by 1mm thats 16 mm sqared on the base and 16 mm squared on the vertical border surface.
. . .

The best thermal compound has less than one-tenth the conductivity of aluminium - it works under a star only because it's microscopically thin, to fill in air gaps caused by surface irregularities.

Putting a thick bead of it around the edge means the path is very long, rendering it pretty useless.
 

CKOD

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I'll be doing a bit more testing, but for that I'm waiting for someone whos been posting a lot in this thread *cough cough* to fix something, and start making some parts *cough cough cough* ( ;) )so I can compare that to the DX board, and maybe the cutter board if I feel like putting a LED back down on it.
 

saabluster

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I'll be doing a bit more testing, but for that I'm waiting for someone whos been posting a lot in this thread *cough cough* to fix something, and start making some parts *cough cough cough* ( ;) )so I can compare that to the DX board, and maybe the cutter board if I feel like putting a LED back down on it.

:nana:
 

vestureofblood

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Hey sabluster,

I have bee dong some digging on this but I was wandering what your thoughts on it are.

The data sheet for XML says that max junction temp is 302F (150C). So what I am wandering is if you have determined a relative max temp for the surrounding heat sink. For example I put some XMLs on a copper plate and put a temp sensor in the center of the leds and powered it up. Do you have an idea what point I shut it down should be based on the temp of the heat sink at close proximity to the LEDs?
 

saabluster

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Hey sabluster,

I have bee dong some digging on this but I was wandering what your thoughts on it are.

The data sheet for XML says that max junction temp is 302F (150C). So what I am wandering is if you have determined a relative max temp for the surrounding heat sink. For example I put some XMLs on a copper plate and put a temp sensor in the center of the leds and powered it up. Do you have an idea what point I shut it down should be based on the temp of the heat sink at close proximity to the LEDs?
It's not as easy as just specifying a set temp for the heatsink. It can be higher or lower depending on the specific properties of the heatsink and LED used. This data sheet should give you an understanding of the math involved.
 

vestureofblood

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Hey saab,

I am guessing you have also done similar tests with XRE. Could you give me an idea how far it really pays to drive an XRE? I have my LED soldered to a thick copper slug on a heat sink that is mag sized. I need a rough idea of how hard I can drive it and still see gains. I would like the output to be sustainable to at least 30 seconds. Thanks
 

bigchelis

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Hey saab,

I am guessing you have also done similar tests with XRE. Could you give me an idea how far it really pays to drive an XRE? I have my LED soldered to a thick copper slug on a heat sink that is mag sized. I need a rough idea of how hard I can drive it and still see gains. I would like the output to be sustainable to at least 30 seconds. Thanks


My Surefire L1 XR-E R2 by Milky is direct drive and pulls 2A off fresh AW 17670 and did 390 OTF lumens. Copper heatsink in L1 bezel and thermal glue paste of some type is what he used. I am sure LED to copper bonding would be better and Sott felt 2A was about perfect for XR-E R2 as long as it had copper. It gets warm quick too. My XR-E R2 was purchased at cutterelctronics and EZ100 type.
 

ma_sha1

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Hey saab,

I am guessing you have also done similar tests with XRE. Could you give me an idea how far it really pays to drive an XRE? I have my LED soldered to a thick copper slug on a heat sink that is mag sized. I need a rough idea of how hard I can drive it and still see gains. I would like the output to be sustainable to at least 30 seconds. Thanks

My Franken Mag Jr. with Cutter XRE R2 EZ1000 bare led, arctic silver glue-down under pressure to copper heat sink in mag C did 221,000Lux @ 1 meter using Dx 66mm Aspheric lens. it's 2.2Amp under direct drive using Panasonic 2900mah 18650.
 
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vestureofblood

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Wow dude, 221K is right about where I need to be. I upped the current on my light last night from 1.4A to about 2.18A, it did give a bit of a gain I think. I dont have any equipment to test but I think even with the led soldered to the copper slung the Q5 I have on there starts to drop off a bit after 1-2 min. Nothing drastic, but a slight fall. I have also ordered a larger lens to.

FYI I started a group buy in the MP if you guys need anything from cutter right now. I will probly place the order this weekend.
 

AaronM

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It's been about a year since I called them, but I think American Beryllia said they would make stars for around a buck a piece if a guy ordered two hundred.

EDIT: I don't think there is an insulating material between the metalized portion and the main body of the part as the main body is an electrical insulator already.

http://www.americanberyllia.com/manuf_capa.html

http://www.americanberyllia.com/services.html


Another EDIT: Heck, I don't believe my own memory on this one: A dollar each sounds too good.
Anyway, whatever the price was, it seemed fair considering it would be the best star ever.
 
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MikeAusC

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Berrylium Oxide has the same thermal properties as Aluminium, so all you'd be gaining would be eliminating the electrical insulator between the copper track and the aluminium star - plus you'd have very brittle star !

For significant improvement, you'd use a copper star with the LED soldered directly to it.
 

AaronM

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I think the BeO star WOULD be a significant improvement over a typical board.
...Of course you're right, solid copper should be even better, but how? Even the unit in the link below has a gap between the emitter and copper chunk that would need to be filled with solder.

http://www.led-tech.de/de/High-Powe...U2-auf-Kupferkernplatine-LT-1790_120_170.html

The ideal would be to photo-etch the copper so the thermal pad would stand proud a bit and be at the same level as the top of the other layers.

Anyway, this is all speculation and ideas I'd love to see put to the test on my part.
Sometimes an experiment will show unexpected results and I'm cool with that.
 

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