XeVision XV-LX70 and XV-LX70 SuperPower (both 50/70 watt HIDs) Review / Comparison

[FRITZHID]

I failed to do a night control shot this time.

We had about 1/2-2/3 moon while shooting.

If the big lights were off & our eyes readjusted we didn't need our headlamps to see where we were walking but honestly once the lights were tuned on the light output just dwarfs that. It actually makes the ambient moonlight "go away" because the eyes are adjusted to seeing this bright beam.

yeah, it's easy to get flash blindness when play'n w/these toys, lol.

 

[hahoo]

cool deal mr froggy, good job, been curious to see this lx70 in action !
the canon 40d is what im using right now
and im with you on noise, i hate it:shakehead
mine does OK at 1600 , but i have been shooting at 200 iso when i try beamshots to keep the noise out
heres a few i just did last night, and posted on vihns forum
ill take any critique , good or bad from another seasoned shooter like yourself:thumbsup:
thanks again for posting this, people dont see what hard work goes into getting things right for shots like this
have a look here if you get bored

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?427916-The-Lounge-2017/page84

 

[hahoo]

what are the stacks of white things in the foreground? look like cinder blocks or something ?

 

[BVH]

Shipping containers

 

[FroggyTaco]

The 40D was a superb camera when it came out but technology marches on. This EM-1 gives about the same noise @1600 that the 40D did @400 which buys me a lot of flexibility.

And yes the photo's are intentionally underexposed because otherwise the beams & their illumination are overrepresented in the pics compared to what we're seeing while on-site IMO.


Viewing images is SOOOO hard because almost nobody has a calibrated monster & who know's what monitor settings that greatly impact what you see...even adjust brightness for your computer's ambient light can impact the image brightness.

So my basic beamshot goal is to not have "starry" other light sources that show/prove excess exposure & of course preferring to keep shutter speeds as fast as possible. A 2 second exposure is subject to far less outside shake/blurriness compared to a 5 second exposure for example.

Also aside from the lights beam, the non-illuminated areas should be essentially black since it's night time.

 

[hahoo]

The 40D was a superb camera when it came out but technology marches on. This EM-1 gives about the same noise @1600 that the 40D did @400 which buys me a lot of flexibility.

And yes the photo's are intentionally underexposed because otherwise the beams & their illumination are overrepresented in the pics compared to what we're seeing while on-site IMO.


Viewing images is SOOOO hard because almost nobody has a calibrated monster & who know's what monitor settings that greatly impact what you see...even adjust brightness for your computer's ambient light can impact the image brightness.

So my basic beamshot goal is to not have "starry" other light sources that show/prove excess exposure & of course preferring to keep shutter speeds as fast as possible. A 2 second exposure is subject to far less outside shake/blurriness compared to a 5 second exposure for example.

Also aside from the lights beam, the non-illuminated areas should be essentially black since it's night time.

makes sense to me
so if i am shooting at --------- f 6.3, iso- 200, and 13 second shutter
and you are shooting at ----- f 7.1, iso- 1600, and 2 second shutter

are we close to shooting " the same final exposure" so to speak, as far as the same amount of light getting in?
i might try and roll the iso up some next time and see how it goes
never thought about it in this manner
ive got a good manfrotto tripod also, and a heavy duty ball head, so ive never worried much about that end of it
thanks for the suggestions ! .... and sorry to all if i got too far off topic :thinking:

 

[Magio]

Already done: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...olarion-PH50&p=4414167&viewfull=1#post4414167

You the man BVH! Maxabeam still easily outhrows these its seems.

 

[BVH]

As it should being DC short arc at 85 Watts vrs ac hid at 70 watts.

 

[IlluminatedOne]

That superpower has some serious throw , some great pics and comparisons.

Working out from the FL-1 4250m distance quoted for that light works out to 4.5million candlepower and it certainly shows in those pictures.

Thanks for doing all that for us to have a look at .

 

[LED1982]

That superpower has some serious throw , some great pics and comparisons.

Working out from the FL-1 4250m distance quoted for that light works out to 4.5million candlepower and it certainly shows in those pictures.

Thanks for doing all that for us to have a look at .

There was another post somewhere where someone also said 4.5 million candela but I forgot where I saw it and couldn't find it, he showed the math in the post. So unless I hear otherwise I'm going to just tell people it's 4.5 million candela from now on. Thanks.

 

[hahoo]

There was another post somewhere where someone also said 4.5 million candela but I forgot where I saw it and couldn't find it, he showed the math in the post. So unless I hear otherwise I'm going to just tell people it's 4.5 million candela from now on. Thanks.

use this
plug and play, takes all the guess work out

http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/light/lux-to-candela-calculator.htm

 

[hahoo]

heres your numbers

 

[LED1982]

Awesome link hahoo thanks! So now I know what Maxabeam candela is now also, 12.25 million cd

 

[FroggyTaco]

makes sense to me
so if i am shooting at --------- f 6.3, iso- 200, and 13 second shutter
and you are shooting at ----- f 7.1, iso- 1600, and 2 second shutter

are we close to shooting " the same final exposure" so to speak, as far as the same amount of light getting in?
i might try and roll the iso up some next time and see how it goes
never thought about it in this manner
ive got a good manfrotto tripod also, and a heavy duty ball head, so ive never worried much about that end of it
thanks for the suggestions ! .... and sorry to all if i got too far off topic :thinking:

We're probably "exposing" the sensor with a similar net amount of photons. Once upon a time I could find a exposure calculator that would give us actual numbers.

My basic goal is raise the ISO as high as I can w/o sacrificing detail/noise. Then choose the f-stop for the desired DOF. Finally create the desired exposure by manipulating the shutter speed.

Of course if that creates too high(long) of a shutter speed for a given situation then you have to start compromising on either ISO or f-stop(dof) to maintain the desired picture sharpness.

 

[Offgridled]

Awesome link hahoo thanks! So now I know what Maxabeam candela is now also, 12.25 million cd

+1 thx hahoo!!

 

[XeRay]

Before any more time passes, I need to thank BVH and FroggyTaco for taking their personal time out to do this shoot. We all owe them a debt of gratitude. Thank you both for your efforts.

 

[BVH]

Both of us had a lot of fun shooting the two lights and what could be better than getting to see two powerful handheld HID's perform without having to buy them. You two gave us that opportunity so a Thank You to you both also.

 

[Offgridled]

Both of us had a lot of fun shooting the two lights and what could be better than getting to see two powerful handheld HID's perform without having to buy them. You two gave us that opportunity so a Thank You to you both also.

That had to be amazing to witness in person. Great job guys. And what a great honor to be picked to do this

 

[FroggyTaco]

That had to be amazing to witness in person. Great job guys. And what a great honor to be picked to do this

Next time you should come up. You only live 3-4 hours away from us.

 

[FroggyTaco]

Before any more time passes, I need to thank BVH and FroggyTaco for taking their personal time out to do this shoot. We all owe them a debt of gratitude. Thank you both for your efforts.

Your welcome. It is mostly me showing up & enjoying Bob's light show!