ZebraLight H502 XM-L

B0wz3r

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Varuscelli, that's news to me. Any of the H51 threads since they've been out, I've failed to even notice the GITD holders, and I normally see only the black ones. Anyone have a picture?

Don't have a pic, but they're kind of pastey-white in the light. They glow neon green in the dark.

All of my ZL's have come with both GITD and regular black brackets.
 

varuscelli

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Varuscelli, that's news to me. Any of the H51 threads since they've been out, I've failed to even notice the GITD holders, and I normally see only the black ones. Anyone have a picture?

I can't actually speak to the question about the H51 headlamps by ownership (that is, I've never received an H51 package in the mail from ZL), but when I look on the ZebraLight page for any given light, I can scroll down to the section that's labeled "Accessories in the Package" and it looks as though all the AA headlamps show as including the GITD holder. I'm kind of speculating here, but maybe most folks show pics of their headlamps in the headband holders and I think the holders that come attached to the headband are perhaps always the black ones with the GITD ones as loose accessories.

As a kind of interesting side note, I wanted to order a couple of extra GITD and black holders from ZebraLight to experiment with, and when I did so the black ones they sent me came attached to headbands. So, I got headbands with both the black ones (when I thought I would be getting loose black holders) and the GITD holders were loose in the package. But ZL also sent me a GITD on a lanyard, an extra pocket clip, and some extra o-rings. Considering all I wanted were two extra black holders and two GITD holders to experiment with, they sent me a BUNCH of extra stuff at no extra cost (two extra headbands, an extra GITD holder on a lanyard, an extra pocket clip and extra o-rings).

Here's a pic of the package of goodies I received when I ordered two black holders and two GITD holders:

110815-001a.jpg
 
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JS_280

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My H51Fw came with the headband plus the black and GITD holders. They're on my desk at work or I would post a pic.
 

Beacon of Light

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Ok dumb question here, but how do you remove the black holder from the band to replace with the GITD holder? They don't appear to have a slot where the band fits in (on the holder attached to the band) and the band is a connected loop with no break in the elastic.
 

pjandyho

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You can actually. For some time I couldn't figure out how I could change out the holder but some 9 year old kids playing with my H501w actually got the band loosened up. I tried to figure out how Zebralight fastened the band so I took out the same band from my H51Fw and studied it. Suddenly it dawned upon me how easy but yet elusive the attachment was done. Wish I could shoot a video and post it up.
 

varuscelli

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Ok dumb question here, but how do you remove the black holder from the band to replace with the GITD holder? They don't appear to have a slot where the band fits in (on the holder attached to the band) and the band is a connected loop with no break in the elastic.

One of the hard plastic routers (I guess that's what they're called) has the headband end sewn around it and the other plastic router has a loose end looped through it. The loose end is pretty well hidden under other folds of the headband, but if you loosen the headband enough you'll end up seeing it.

Someone help me out with my terminology...are the hard plastic pieces called cinches or routers or what? I'm blanking. :confused:
 
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JS_280

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Here is the headband with GITD undone...

zl_headband_loose.jpg




And as best as I can tell...how it goes back together...


zl_headband_tight.jpg
 

Outdoorsman5

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That way works, but you did it backwards (compared to how ZL does it anyway.) The loose end piece should end up on the inside of the band and underneath a section of the band....sorry can't explain it any better.....but your way works just fine.
 

varuscelli

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Here is the headband with GITD undone...

zl_headband_loose.jpg




And as best as I can tell...how it goes back together...


zl_headband_tight.jpg



Or for anyone who might want to mirror the routing as it comes from ZebraLight, here's an image. The only advantage I can see with the original routing is that no loose end is hanging once it's cinched up tight -- but to me the original routing seems fairly convoluted.

110829-001a.jpg
 

varuscelli

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My problem with these things is that sometimes if I don't do a "before" photo and then take the thing apart my somewhat unreliable spatial relations memory has me putting them back together any which way I can. But this is the "before" photo as merely loosened up.
 

JS_280

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My problem with these things is that sometimes if I don't do a "before" photo and then take the thing apart my somewhat unreliable spatial relations memory has me putting them back together any which way I can. But this is the "before" photo as merely loosened up.

Same here...and thanks for the "Before Picture". I forgot to take one, hence the backwards way I put mine back together... :ohgeez:
 

varuscelli

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Same here...and thanks for the "Before Picture". I forgot to take one, hence the backwards way I put mine back together... :ohgeez:

Yeah, I don't think the way my "before" photo shows the setup is necessarily intuitive. Without the reference photo, I would probably have routed it exactly like you did in your photo.

I also use a Fenix headband, and based on things I've read and been told about it the Fenix headband is not set up correctly as delivered in that is has the potential to loosen on its own if not rerouted from the original configuration.

But the original routing on the ZebraLight headband seems to work the way it's supposed to and keeps the loose end neatly tucked away (and hidden) while allowing easy loosening or tightening as needed.
 

davidt1

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I was posting something in another thread and realized something that I need to post here for Zebralight about the clip that comes with the new H series. The clip on my H51W is showing signs of rust (the humid and hot weather in Houston is brutal) already. I have some stainless steel clips that are stronger and resist corrosion much better than the stock clip on my H51W.

Zebralight, is it possible to change the clip to a stainless steel one for the H502?

Here is a picture of the H501 and H51W with two different clips. The H501 has a Fenix Stainless steel clip that I paid $3 for. The H51W has the stock clip. Zebralight and Fenix are both in the same business. It would be fairly easy to find out who made the clip for Fenix and have them make some for you. The more I think about it, a nice and fairly expensive light such as the H51 and H502 should have a better clip. If it cost more, I am willing to pay more for the light. Please consider changing the clip to a stainless steel one. It will add more quality and appeal to your angle lights.
IMG_6672.jpg
 
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uknewbie

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Yeah these clips should be stainless steel at least for several reasons.

This will be my next light I am sure.

Where are the pictures already!
 

davidt1

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Their spreadsheet says, "it's shorter than the H501". Output for the cool white version is listed at 300lm. The specs look real good. I expect the H502 to be an amazing light. Based on the specs:

It will have a pure flood beam profile like the H501

Shorter than the H501

Brighter than the H51F

I hope they will use a stiffer and more recessed button like that of the SC600. I also hope they will use a thicker battery spring than the one the they use in the H51/H501. And of course, a stainless steel clip will be a great improvement as well. I have money put away for this light already. And although I want this light (NW) badly, I don't want Zebralight to rush it through.

Zebralight, take your time to do a thorough QC before releasing it.
 
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jellydonut

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As much as I am eagerly waiting for this light to be release, I agree with davidt1's statement.

In addition - my H31 *eats* CR123s from parasitic drain. This happens even when i partially unscrew the tailcap to hinder parasitic drain. I have no idea how or why.
 

RedForest UK

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If you unscrew the tailcap the circuit should be broken and it should be impossible for any sort of standby current. Are you sure it isn't a problem with the batteries?
 
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