Zebralight SC700d 21700 XHP70.2 90+CRI

Connor

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It has been said that the SC700d is demanding close to the max of what the 50E can deliver (only on H1, of course).
If you plan to use the SC700d a LOT on max and out in the cold the 50E is prolly not the right cell to use - otherwise (occasional blast of H1) it should be perfectly fine.
 

Derek Dean

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I was expecting some useful info instead I've read 50 pgs about the precise tint of the LED and the color of the g*damn anodizing...this isn't what i buy flashlights for. :D I guess im in the wrong place...
Let us know what information you're interested in and we'll see what we can do :)
 

noboneshotdog

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May 28, 2012
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Is there any danger in using the 10A battery on H1 for longer periods?

No danger, just won't be able to give the amperage the led demands on high. So you may not be able to achieve max output very long before the light drops to a lower output level.
 

noboneshotdog

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I was expecting some useful info instead I've read 50 pgs about the precise tint of the LED and the color of the g*damn anodizing...this isn't what i buy flashlights for. :D I guess im in the wrong place...

Also, it's tough to talk to much about the in's and outs of this light when at this point we only have one or two members that have received it as of yet.

If you are looking for helpful information from your fellow forum members, we are typically pretty helpful when kindly asked...
 

WalkIntoTheLight

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Jun 18, 2014
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Does a 10A battery work with the SC700d?

The Samsung 50E has a rated continuous discharge of 9.8A, but 14.7A if you don't use it continuously. Usually, that means until the battery gets hot (around 75C - 80C), which usually takes a couple of minutes even at max discharge. So, it should be fine. I think the light will ramp down due to PID before the battery gets too hot, especially if the max current is well under 14.7A which I suspect it is.
 

radellaf

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No danger, just won't be able to give the amperage the led demands on high. So you may not be able to achieve max output very long before the light drops to a lower output level.

Before I was confident about that, I'd do a test run or few and measure the temperature of the battery (IR thermometer should be OK, just not on the shiny metal parts) to make sure it's not getting too hot. I think the 50E has a 60C operating temperature limit. If you're getting above that, there may be danger. Zebralights don't dim when the voltage gets pulled down by IR, unless it gets down far enough. On a full cell you can be burning a lot of watts in the battery, and possibly overheating it, without anything visible happening. It's not like a DD light. Staying full brightness doesn't mean the battery can handle the load.

Question for one of the current owners:
How long before the area near the switch gets too hot for your thumb? More than a minute?


I was expecting some useful info instead I've read 50 pgs about the precise tint of the LED and the color of the g*damn anodizing...this isn't what i buy flashlights for. :D I guess im in the wrong place...

If you're reading the same thread I am, there's as much useful info as there could be considering only a couple of people have the light, and they've posted a good bit of info. Not a selfbuilt type of thorough review, much as I'd love that. There's _also_ a lot of hand-wringing about minutiae. This is, indeed, a place for such things. It's not Amazon reviews.
The really big frustration is having a long thread AND NOT ENOUGH SHIPPED LIGHTS. But, great things take time.
 
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Derek Dean

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Question for one of the current owners:
How long before the area near the switch gets too hot for your thumb? More than a minute?
I did a test tonight seeing how long I could hold the flashlight on Max output before it got too hot to hold....... I ended the test after 30 minutes because I was getting bored. Unfortunately, I don't have any sophisticated test equipment, but I did use my camera's light meter to somewhat follow the action.

I was using the full charged battery listed on the ZL website. Ambient temp in my apartment is about 60 F, I was holding it in my hand just like you'd normally hold a flashlight, with fingers wrapped around the body and thumb on the switch, and here's how it went:
1. Max on.
2. Very bright for the first 2 minutes with little to no dimming. Body heating up slowly, but not at all hot yet.
3. at 2 minutes I could almost imperceptibly begin to notice slight dimming, and the front of the body near the head was beginning to get very warm.
4. At 5 minutes the head was very hot, but not too hot to touch, only to hot to stay touching it for very long. Light still very bright, but noticeably dimmer than at max.
6. At 5 minutes I turned off the light briefly and checked the temp of the battery (by removing it)...... only warm.
7. When I clicked the light back on, it went to full brightness and after 30 seconds I began to visually see it step down in very minor increments
8. All this time, the light was never too hot to hold. Yes, it got uncomfortably warm and I had to change hand positions a few times, but never burning hot. And the head, while hot, was never too hot to touch for 5 or 6 seconds at a time.
9. At this time (6 minutes) I compared the output of the SC700d to my SC600w MkIV+, and the SC700d output was almost identical to the 1311 (H2) of the SC600w Mk IV+.
10. Over the next 24 minutes I kept checking the relative levels between the two lights and found no change (turning the SC600 MkIV+ off between tests). The body temperature also stayed the same, with the area of the body next to the head being quite hot and head being very hot, but never too hot to touch, and the rest of the body being just warm to very warm.
11. The area around the button was never too hot to touch, but it did get hot.

Of course this was with no air movement at all, just me holding the light. Personally, I was very impressed with the results. Of course, it's quite possible it was dimming somewhat in those first 2 minutes and I simply couldn't see it visually or detect it with my camera, but it sure seemed to stay very bright.

However, for me, the most impressive part was how steady the output was after it settled down to it's stable operating temp, and that it never did get too hot to hold.
 

ven

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Oct 17, 2013
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Manchester UK
Awesome! Seems to be a perfect dog waking light(I love excuses). Thanks again for all the useful info derek
 

markr6

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Jul 16, 2012
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There seems to be a couple people upset with me...or ZL...or the world. Life's hard sometimes. Sorry if that's the case, but this is a forum. And a ZEBRALIGHT thread of all threads. Did you expect a couple posts with all technical info and call that the end? Maybe in the future we can just provide an Amazon-esque review "Great light, buy it!"

I simply got the light, tried it, liked it. One little thing bothered me so I sold it to another member who is now thrilled. I don't see any problems here. If you want more info (like I still do even after owning one), just wait. That's all you can do at this point.

I'm sorry I brought up the anodizing. From now on, exterior finish of a light should never be mentioned again on CPF even though almost every flashlight review out there does.

p.s. The pics from justanotherguy do look darker than mine, so I'll be getting another for sure.
 
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Mattz68

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Apr 27, 2017
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Mark6, I consider you one of top contributors on C.P. -a mix of humor, flashaholic passion, tech knowledge (without being too nerdy) and "real world" info. Although we differ in our tint preferences (4000k vs 5000k) -I still look forward to your insites and Zebralight reviews/pictures. If some people can't handle your personal preferences -too bad for them! HAPPPY NEW YEAR ~Matt
 

ctrashp

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Dec 24, 2013
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Well, i ordered one, on Dec.8th,2018. ZL says won't ship til late January, early Feb. Very pleased with the 3 18650 lights from ZL. Hopefully, this one pans out, too. Happy New Year!
 

dotCPF

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Dec 20, 2018
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Got an interesting response from ZL on the anodizing.

In summary: The source of materials contributes most to the finished color. Alcoa rods tend to have an olive/gold color. Kaiser rods tend to have a dark gray finish. ZL switched to Kaiser rods several years ago...the Kaiser rods are from the Kalamazoo MI factory. ZL uses (whatever finished color) US made rods as long as they are not way too expensive in China.

So, I feel like I have a chance at a dark gray SC700d...maybe? I feel like my best bet would be waiting for a distributor (Nkon is the only one I know of with this) and ask them to personally verify the color before buying. Or maybe ZL would oblige. Either way, a long wait is ahead.

Mark- I'm with you on the anodization. If you ever make any headway here, and find out if they have a chance at a darker grey color, a heads up would be much appreciated! I'll be perusing the board for any updates here regardless. (I don't know that I'd sell the light because of it..... but it is important to me in such a high quality thing)
 

markr6

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Mark- I'm with you on the anodization. If you ever make any headway here, and find out if they have a chance at a darker grey color, a heads up would be much appreciated! I'll be perusing the board for any updates here regardless. (I don't know that I'd sell the light because of it..... but it is important to me in such a high quality thing)

Yeah I knew it was pretty extreme to sell it because of that, but something that would bother me going forward. Right now it was an easy sell, so I unloaded it for a $6 loss (shipping). I'll try again. Once they start being delivered over the next few weeks we'll know if they vary at all light to light or if it will take an entirely new batch. Most likely the latter.
 

justanotherguy

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Sep 8, 2008
Messages
522
Yeah I knew it was pretty extreme to sell it because of that, but something that would bother me going forward. Right now it was an easy sell, so I unloaded it for a $6 loss (shipping). I'll try again. Once they start being delivered over the next few weeks we'll know if they vary at all light to light or if it will take an entirely new batch. Most likely the latter.

Are you looking for a 700d thats lighter..Or darker in ano...?
Do you want yours back?
 

likethevegetable

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Aug 25, 2017
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Yeah I knew it was pretty extreme to sell it because of that, but something that would bother me going forward. Right now it was an easy sell, so I unloaded it for a $6 loss (shipping). I'll try again. Once they start being delivered over the next few weeks we'll know if they vary at all light to light or if it will take an entirely new batch. Most likely the latter.

No judgment! Your money, your flashlight, your decision. We're all crazy (perhaps fastidious is the proper word) around here for different reasons. Have you heard any Knife Knuts get all worked up over their blade being 0.5mm off center? The ano being that light probably would have been a deal breaker for me too. For $120 USD (close to $190 CAD with shipping), I would require it to have that "cool" factor that the darker ano has, IMO.

I was honestly thrown off by the ano of my SC600w IV Plus when I first got it, and it is probably half a shade lighter: https://i.imgur.com/LxgBzXd.jpg

My first ZL, H53c is the best of my herd, it looks like a smooth powder coat. Too bad I scratched the crap out of it.

justanotherguy: Mr. markr6 said it was the lightness that reminded him of baby waste matter.
 
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markr6

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justanotherguy: Mr. markr6 said it was the lightness that reminded him of baby waste matter.
Haha yeah I was exaggerating there. I can't downright say it's ugly. It was more of a gold/brown/olive color than the dark gray. I'm sure some will like it though.

That dark gray is a must for me after getting pretty much every ZL in that color. The only one I have that is lighter is the old SC52w from 2013, and even then it's darker than this 700 was.
 
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