Zebralight SC700d 21700 XHP70.2 90+CRI

[JStraus]

So, can anyone who has the 700d tell me if it will reach our farther than the other ZL's? How would it compare in throw (or since kinda floody is why I say 'reach') to the SC600w HI?

I really want one, but I'd like to know with its extra size and output if it has more reach.

I love my SC600Fd III but suspect that the 700 would have much more reach than this, and my SC64w HI.

Any feedback is appreciated!

 

[radellaf]

See my comparison beamshots. The 3 Hi probably doesn't put as much light (candlepower?) at beam center but it's a heck of a lot easier to see what's there unless it's a clear and dry day. There were numbers for the hi vs the plus if you look around. Scaling up the plus to 3000 should be close enough, and IIRC correctly the plus was already a little higher.

I don't use any of the not-screwed-on clips. I might if I had to carry them a lot. As is I'll just grab the SC62 or 64 and accept less light for the better clip.

 

[Nichia!]

So many of you guys received the light and no video review yet!!??

 

[id30209]

So many of you guys received the light and no video review yet!!??

Huge +1!

 

[WalkIntoTheLight]

See my comparison beamshots. The 3 Hi probably doesn't put as much light (candlepower?) at beam center but it's a heck of a lot easier to see what's there unless it's a clear and dry day. There were numbers for the hi vs the plus if you look around. Scaling up the plus to 3000 should be close enough, and IIRC correctly the plus was already a little higher.

Yes, throw numbers are very misleading when it comes to real-world use. The SC600w HI beam is just about perfect for seeing stuff in the distance. It's large enough not to give a tunnel effect, but the spill is dim enough and the hotspot small enough that it doesn't blind you when you use it. Your pupils can stay open so you can see what the light is shining on in the distance.

Most other Zebralights (especially the 600w Plus and probably the 700d) have a much larger hotspot and a lot brighter spill. So when you put the light on max, all that close-up light bouncing back on you from the foreground immediately blinds you. It makes seeing anything in the distance almost impossible. It's very impressive for moderate distances, but not much good for longer distances, even if the "throw" numbers say otherwise.

 

[carmen]

I saw afew comments on the greenish tint, and I guess seeing this irl is the best way to understand what it really means. So, you owners who had a chance of testing it a bit - how bad is it really? Would you reconsider buyng it if you knew what you know now?

 

[StorminMatt]

I saw afew comments on the greenish tint, and I guess seeing this irl is the best way to understand what it really means. So, you owners who had a chance of testing it a bit - how bad is it really? Would you reconsider buyng it if you knew what you know now?

Depends on what you mean by 'bad'. It is DEFINITEY noticeable if you are white wall hunting. But it is a whole lot less noticeable in the field. In other words, it is (at least in my opinion) perfectly acceptable for an actual working flashlight. I would DEFINITELY still buy the light if I knew about this beforehand. Aside from the green corona, this light has LOTS going for it.

 

[radellaf]

Did some ceiling bounce experiments with the camera as light meter between my two brightest, the D4S (full batt) and the SC700d (doesn't matter batt). Got +0.3EV, a ratio of 1.266:1, and 3000*1.26=3780 lumens. Pretty close to the 4000lm estimate for the (probably 5000K) D4S XP-L version. Yay, math. The D4S in the beamshots was probably at about 3.9V. Frankly, I'm fine with that. At 15A+ on turbo, the battery is drained so fast that it verges on dishonest to be quoting the first minute's lumens _per battery charge_.

For the SC600m3Hi vs SC700d, harder to really test, but at ISO100 1/800 f4.9 I can get EV readings in the +-2.0 range. The HI is about 0.3 brighter center hotspot. The D4S is 1.0 to 1.3 more, which is a full twice as much light or a bit more (EV is a logarithmic scale). This is about at 3 feet so not sure how that correlates with the 50+ foot beam, but it should be in the ballpark.

 

[stargaz_21]

Depends on what you mean by 'bad'. It is DEFINITEY noticeable if you are white wall hunting. But it is a whole lot less noticeable in the field. In other words, it is (at least in my opinion) perfectly acceptable for an actual working flashlight. I would DEFINITELY still buy the light if I knew about this beforehand. Aside from the green corona, this light has LOTS going for it.

Mine the SC700d 21700 XHP70.2 Neutral White High CRI Flashlight has no greenish tint I preordered it back in November of last year. Just now received it a few days ago. Love it

 

[ven]

Very nice star, but the clock has stole the show..................very coooool

 

[SubLGT]

Mine the SC700d 21700 XHP70.2 Neutral White High CRI Flashlight has no greenish tint...

On my monitor I see a yellowish green corona in your photo. Do you see it on your wall?

 

[radellaf]

That's about what it looks like at close range. Center beam has no tint (by my eyes and camera) but there's that same corona that all the new ZLs have. It's not any _worse_ than the others, though. Maybe not as bad. The SC53c one I could notice outdoors on the sidewalk, even if it wasn't a big deal. With the SC700 I don't notice it at all. Ceiling bounce WB, the RX100 reports 5000K with "M1" correction in the green-magenta axis, so it's correcting for a slight green tint. AB is 0 so there's no blue-yellow shift off the BBL. I get the same M1 tint from my best ZL, the SC62w. SC700 Hotspot was 5400K, no tint.

 

[Keitho]

I saw afew comments on the greenish tint, and I guess seeing this irl is the best way to understand what it really means. So, you owners who had a chance of testing it a bit - how bad is it really? Would you reconsider buyng it if you knew what you know now?

After a few weeks, haven't used it except outdoors, and haven't noticed tint issues. If you're planning on using it with bare feet indoors to light walls, it might be the wrong light. If you're going to use it with shoes on, no need to hesitate.

 

[stargaz_21]

I tested it again at full brightness and see no greenish tint , it might be the camera on my phone , but to me naked eye i see no greenish tint.

 

[twistedraven]

Looks like the usual Cree beam profile-- green corona blue spill. Not my cup of tea. These days I'm so picky I only use flat emitters and/or optics that can largely avoid those tint shift issues. And yes, I do notice the tint shift outside as well.

 

[WalkIntoTheLight]

Looks like the usual Cree beam profile-- green corona blue spill. Not my cup of tea. These days I'm so picky I only use flat emitters and/or optics that can largely avoid those tint shift issues. And yes, I do notice the tint shift outside as well.

Yeah, I get it. But with Cree emitters, that limits you to only the XP-L HI and the XHP35 HI. Nice emitters, but they limit you to around 2000 lumens even when over-driven (which Zebralight doesn't like to do). Other brands (like Nichia) aren't as efficient, nor as bright. So, for high-output lights, you're either stuck with the tint shifts, or have to go with multi-emitter flooders.

 

[radellaf]

you're either stuck with the tint shifts, or have to go with multi-emitter flooders.

Well I have to say, when you're comparing to Zebralights like the SC700, flooders is a relative term. The D4S is quad emitter but has a tighter beam.

I get how the cree beam isn't a good thing, but as long as I know it's what I'm getting, I'll accept it until technology improves. I have plenty of lights without that tint shift (like the Lux T SC52) if I'm feeling particularly bothered by it at the time.

The SC64c LE with the Samsung LH351D is really tempting me too much considering what I just dropped on the SC700d. Fortunately, I've returned to my no-more-preorders (or back-orders) mentality, so the decision on that light will either be delayed or rendered moot.

 

[markr6]

My second SC700d just shipped. I want to cross my fingers for a "dark anodizing" this time, but we all know the odds of that. Regardless, I can't wait to get it...and keep it this time!

 

[GeoBruin]

My second SC700d just shipped. I want to cross my fingers for a "dark anodizing" this time, but we all know the odds of that. Regardless, I can't wait to get it...and keep it this time!

If you were able to place a second order and have it shipped, they must be close to clearing out the back order. Maybe it's time to order one myself...

 

[markr6]

If you were able to place a second order and have it shipped, they must be close to clearing out the back order. Maybe it's time to order one myself...

You never know for sure. The first was ordered 10/24, shipped 12/20. This second was ordered 1/7 and shipped 1/29. I believe the status has always been 'Back Order' to this day.