Zebralight SC700d 21700 XHP70.2 90+CRI

spikebike

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Zebraligt is using Pogo Pins because of the high current demand in the new models - several Pogo Pins have a lower resistance than a spring. The 700er Flashlights even have Beryllium Copper springs in the pins - better electrical conductivity. The fact that Pogo Pins require an exact length of the battery is one of the requirements for an unprotected cell - protected ones vary too much in length. Two more reasons: Unprotected ones usually allow higher currents, and because unprotected ones are shorter, the flashlight itself may be shorter as well. Due to the high quality of the Zebralight circuit incl. internal protection, I do not see a requirement for an extra protection in the cell. Of course, this is only true because Zebras are single cell flashlights - a setup with several cells in series would always require protected cells.

Regarding reliability, I haven't heard about pin issues in the Zebralights except from the very first Pogo models.

The Acebeam 21700 is 74.8 mm long, I assume your source has just measured the base cell and made a mistake there. Look at the data sheet: http://acebeam.com/download/sample/11102

Thanks for the correction, great answer, thanks, I really appreciate it.

I'm just a bit wary of having unprotected cells around the house, in multiple devices, in chargers, etc. Just paranoid I guess.

I've had no problems with it with my Manker U11 (18650 based) flashlight so far. I was hoping for something 21700 based and not too much larger. I'm often biking or tracking my black dog at night (or both) and often have my flashlight in the 500-1000 lumen range.
 

WalkIntoTheLight

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I'm just a bit wary of having unprotected cells around the house, in multiple devices, in chargers, etc. Just paranoid I guess.

What is it that a protected cell is doing for you that makes you think it is more safe? In some ways, a protected cell is less safe than an unprotected cell, because you have a metal strip along the side of the cell that can short the cell (with all the bad consequences) if the wrapper is damaged.

Protection circuits don't protect you against internal shorts, or damage. They'll help prevent you from draining the cell too far (which is really only an issue with multi-cell lights), or overcharging the cell (which any decent charger doesn't do). You'll want to use a DMM to check the voltage anyway, regardless of whether you use protected or unprotected. The only other thing a protection circuit might do is stop a cell from an external short if you're carrying it around with a bunch of loose change or nails (don't do that!).

If you feel safer sticking with protected cells, by all means do that. Just be aware it may be a false sense of safety.
 

spikebike

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Protection batteries help protect against heat buildup, over current, over pressure, and over discharge. I personally have burned through nylon when a Fenix got triggered while in my pack. Not sure what Fenix has against tail standing and protected power buttons. Generally seems reasonable to have an extra level of protection above whatever is in the charger, flashlight, etc. Only the battery can know it's internal pressure, and the heat inside the LED, even if perfectly monitored is not the same as the temperature inside the battery.

My pack:
http://photos.app.goo.gl/LBC9GKKtrN8LVTxv8
 
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radellaf

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Typical protected cells do not protect against over-temperature, just voltage and current. The battery itself (name brands anyway) has a one-time pressure disconnect. There is no overtemp protection unless you have external electronics beyond the usual protection circuit... like the flashlight board itself. Even a real BMS isn't going to know anything more than battery surface temperature (better than LED temp, sure) and even they don't tend to have a sensor per cell.

ZL current draw won't come anywhere near overheating a battery from amps unless something is seriously strange about the battery. Which, battery wise, is just good design. If you're risking overtemp from current rather than ambient conditions, then you really should choose a higher capacity cell or use more than one.

Emisars or other FETs with 15A turbo and LED temp sensing, well, they certainly could, but that's another topic. ZLs are "sensible" and practical. I like having both on the shelf.
 

MKayze

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Anyone have a D4S to compare it with? Which one do you like better?
 

radellaf

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Different beasts. The D4S is more fun, with the aux LEDs and advanced settings you can play with, plus the option of Anduril with candle mode and other fun stuff. It's bigger than the SC700, too, and the batteries will probably never be made by the big brands. Since most of my use is in the house, it gets plenty of use, but if I was going on a hike or something I'd probably take the ZL for the size and runtimes. If I was short on cash, I guess I'd just get the D4S.
 

Connor

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From what I've been reading on CPF&BLF the SC700 uses *half* the amps to achieve the same 3k lumens .. so there's that. I have to admit the D4S is a lot of "fun" to play with, though.
 

WalkIntoTheLight

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Yeah, Zebralights are amazingly efficient. Good boost drivers can do that. And regulated with constant output all the way down to an empty battery.

Lights that use FET drivers, like the Emissar and most budget lights, are impressive (and often brighter), but only while the battery is fully-charged. The battery depletes really fast when using FET drivers, and then the light output is just "meh".

But you pay double for a Zebralight, so there's that...
 

justanotherguy

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No one has picked up the 700fd yet?

Is it a light made to fill a non-existent need?
My 700d is pretty floody already
 

Connor

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I like my SC600Fd Mk IV .. I'm tempted to get a SC700Fd.

@justanotherguy A frosted lens is really nice for close range illumination, smoothes out the beam a lot more and corrects some of the ugly green tint in the corona of the XHP70.2 beam.
 

justanotherguy

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I like my SC600Fd Mk IV .. I'm tempted to get a SC700Fd.

@justanotherguy A frosted lens is really nice for close range illumination, smoothes out the beam a lot more and corrects some of the ugly green tint in the corona of the XHP70.2 beam.

Kinda figured.. maybe I could tape my lens then, if I want to see what it's like.,.. $120+ isnt cheap to try it
 

StandardBattery

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Someone did because they are no longer in stock.
I ordered one when they were out of stock, but it took just a day to ship.

It's pretty much what you would expect, and no big surprises. I prefer it over the regular 700d for indoor use and even near-field outdoor use. The regular one does have more range, but not significantly when you consider usable range; although the extra candela on near objects can help sometimes. Overall I think I prefer the Fd version to the regular because neither is a light you want to use for throw, so I make the best of it with the great near-field view of the Fd. There is one caveat I have, see below. The H2 output is very close (slightly less) in practical terms to the H1 output of my 600Fd MkIII Plus.

In my testing the only thing I was not super happy about was that my Fd version has a 'slightly' cooler tint; so color wise I preferred the non Fd, and my 600 mkIIIFd outdoors. It was pretty slight, but I know what I like; i spend a lot of time with cameras and binoculars outdoors, and have a sense of what works well for my vision and sensibilities.

Bottom line:

Just what you'd expect from an Fd variant, and maybe a little surprising that in practical terns the range you give upon is not really that significant compared to the base 700d. If you want range you're not going to be using either of these lights.

In an indoor ceiling bounce test the Fd was a noticeable improvement.

Neither one replaces my 600Fd MkIII Plus as my EDC, but I will often carry one in my backpack as I do today, but now it is likely to be the F version more often.

Just for the record, I used an Samsung 40T in the Fd version, and a 50E in the 700d. I have not noticed any output differences between the cells.

This was a short test, so we'll see if living with them revels anything additional or adds some color to my thoughts and feelings.
 
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justanotherguy

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Thanks for for fd input...
I've got enough lights now that the ones that pique my interest don't fill any void.....
I think I have..overlap saturation
 
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Auringonvalo

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Anyone tested Sc700d/Fd color rendering and how much worse it is compared to SC600Fd? 1500 lumens is pretty much spot on for floody light because it is getting too bright on close range, if you want more range. SC600 can't maintain 1500 lumens much even if there is no temp issues, full battery runs out after about 30 minutes.

Nichia Optisolis LED probably is the best right now for color rendering, but power efficiency takes a hit. How much lower power LEDs can actually use if they can render same colors as incandescent? Seems that power goes up when color rendering improves.
 

twistedraven

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SST20 95cri in an optics array is currently the best option on the market if you want a combination of throw/color rendering/output. A single XHP70.2 90 cri still might edge them out however when it comes to efficiency.
 

WalkIntoTheLight

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SC600 can't maintain 1500 lumens much even if there is no temp issues, full battery runs out after about 30 minutes.

You need better batteries. I get over an hour at that level using a Samsung 30Q 18650 cell. (Prevented from overheating, with a strong cool breeze, to make sure PID isn't ramping it down due to heat.)

I have no idea where you got the idea that a SC600 would only last for 30 minutes. That's true of the SC600 Plus, but that's at 2300+ lumens (I measure it as a bit brighter than that).
 

radellaf

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I'd have no interest in a floody 700 since half the point for me was to see the huge LED in the reflector. I don't have any other XHP70. Biggest before that was an old Pocket Rocket with I think an SST-50 LED (6.5x8.44 vs 6.7x6.76, not sure about die area). I seem to spend as much time admiring the light when it's off as I do actually using it...
 

likethevegetable

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Just curious if the size of the head bothers anybody? Obviously it is large for pocket carry, but feel in hand and aesthetics?

I'm holding out for w or c variant to replace my SC600w IV Plus in the future (now that I have an SC64w HI), but I don't know if I can get over the look. From the pics I've seen it just looks disproportionately weird to me.
 
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