Seoul P4 initial Evaluation- Production LEDs

IsaacHayes

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Does the flux between P4's seem to be consistent, or does that vary as much as the tint shifts part to part?

What about the Vf in this regard? How do they compare to each other?
 

Gryloc

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Hello Newbie. I was watching this thread for a while and I finally felt like posting. Again, nice work with the testing. Is it appropriate to be so harsh and judgmental over an early production LED? I was just wondering. Do early production parts ever change much from the more mature products that may be available like 6 months later? I was thinking about trying one when more available for some projects, but I hope I am not going to be disappointed.

That color shifting in your videos are pretty extreme, like the first one (on you very latest set of videos). I am usually pretty cool over various tints, as long as they are not an ugly color, but the super blue that they turn at higher currents are pretty nasty for me (if the white balance on your camera is correct).

What are they doing wrong with the phosphors? You mentioned using a different type, but something seems wrong about the extreme shifts. It scares me because it reminds me of accidentally overpowering the old Luxeon I and it turns that angry blue like it will fail at any moment.

The pictures of the P4 emitter is discouraging, too. Thought the actual quality doesnt seem too bad, the way it was designed is odd. People are against the "gummy" domes. If it is like the K2 domes, I would fully accept them. How close are the "gummy" domes of the P4 to the K2?

I had awesome experiences with the K2s physical strengths. I did some destructive testing on some of the few K2s I destroyed accidentally for my LED headlight project. The soft dome is nearly immortal to my 30W soldering iron (as is the black plastic used for the body), and the dome does well when it comes to impacts and exacto knifes. I had some large needle-nose pliers (very chubby and about 6in long) and I struck down on the top of the soft domes with a flat stop. It took some strong swings to actually do any damage. When this happens, only the jelly-like silicone between the die and the dome gets distorted. I bet it would still light up, even if it has a distorted image. Mild scrapes with the knife doesn't do much at all. I bet if you would push down, it would cut easily though.

What could they have done better with the internals of the P4 above the die? I see how the soft gel diffuses and disperses the light in a lousy way. Why isn't it clear like Luxeon and Cree? Its way too milky, as though they didn't allow the silicone with the yellow phosphor to cure before they gooped on the filler gel. Also, why does the bond wires have to bee so long that they arch up and get in the way? I bet with that long, narrow bond wire, there is some good resistance. Maybe not. Finally, is the conformal coating of the die (where the phosphor is perfectly square and even like the shape of the die) patented by Lumileds? Why did they use that puddle of goop-like phosphor and not like how even Cree did it?

Oh, one more thing. Newbie, when are you going to take measurements of the flux of these P4s? I would like to see how they compare to the XR-E, even if its a similar die. That would be cool. I suppose that even if the LED is horribly blue, and it is super bright, I might have to try some of them. Alright, good luck and thanks...


-Tony
 

MSHasegawa

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NewBie,

It is just amazing how you go into such depth in LED analysis. Excellent job and I understand you are having fun, too. The types of data and info I get from enthusiasts like you are the reasons why I come to CPF. Thank you, I appreciate it.

If I may add my 0.02USD regarding tint/output performance of LED flashlights... As a consumer, I like to get the most for my dollar. "Most" could also mean "perfect", whatever that means. IMHO, flashlight's primary reason for existence is to provide lighting when none or lacking and to allow a person to see. Seeing can be had in many flavors, depending on the color of the beam and intensity of the beam. If I may say so, with a sub-$50 flashlight, bright is all I expect. But when spending $200+ (4, 5 or even $600!), I expect the tint/color to be pleasing to my eyes (or approximates the sun, or household 100W incan bulb, or my car's HID headlight, or etc). Not some off-color tint. Yes, very subjective. But the fact is, light quality is at the core of a flashlight.

I think Surefires are overpriced. Quality seems to be suffering lately (based on what I'm reading on CPF), too. Nice design? Yes, in a military tool kind of way. Also, if you cost out the components and manufacturing labor, you'll see a fat margin. And because of this margin, they are able to take returns and provide expensive customer service. I'm OK with that. I'll pay extra to get a "perfect" light, whatever that means to me.

I'm kind of rambling on, but what I wanted to say was that the kind of information you provide allow us to be a better informed consumer. I appreciate that.

Thanks NewBie.
 

chimo

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That's one hell of a colour shift between the XR-E and the P4. Looking at the colour of the DMM and copper sheet between shots, it doesn't look like the camera shifted at all, either.

This is good to know - I hope that Seoul Semi is giving thie due attention.


Here's a link to an interesting (and short) read on the use of optical gels and their effect on light extraction from the die. To sum it up, the use of a high index gel increases light extraction 2.5-3 times than using no gel at all.

Paul
 

NewBie

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Gryloc said:
Hello Newbie. I was watching this thread for a while and I finally felt like posting. Again, nice work with the testing. Is it appropriate to be so harsh and judgmental over an early production LED? I was just wondering. Do early production parts ever change much from the more mature products that may be available like 6 months later? I was thinking about trying one when more available for some projects, but I hope I am not going to be disappointed.


Normally, when designers design things in, and run them through their own tests, thru qualification testing, HALT/HASS, and in many industries, certification. As such, you expect the parts to have a certain amount of consistency and not to be changing, as a simple change to something like a primer that is used for silicone adhesion, can cause issues when going back thru testing. These tests take months or even years to do, so you don't want things to be changing, or in a constant state of flux. This is where some designers get in a bit of hot water, where they will design and qualify things with prototype samples, then they find out (even though the manufacturer of the device said...) that something has changed, or often discover in themselves that the parts actually changed in their product production or the field, or that some attribute changed, and is causing failures now.

This is the whole reason for production parts, as the manufacturer has now dialed things in to a point that the part will be stable for a number of years, and will not change. You design using the stated specifications, and run qualification tests to assure the parts will work and hold up in the field. So, you expect/need a part to be the same for a period of time.

Unfortunately, my past experiences so far with Seoul Semiconductor is that they are always fiddling with their production parts, much like you were getting evaluation samples as things are dialed in, which makes them more difficult to use than LEDs from Nichia, LumiLEDs, OSRAM, Toyoda-Gosei, or CREE.

One of the indicators of how well a manufacturer has a part dialed in is the consistency from part to part. I am not seeing that much consistency, imho.

Critical? These are production parts and are what they are. I've not formed an opinion on these parts yet, but it is forming. I'm just checking them out.


Gryloc said:
That color shifting in your videos are pretty extreme, like the first one (on you very latest set of videos). I am usually pretty cool over various tints, as long as they are not an ugly color, but the super blue that they turn at higher currents are pretty nasty for me (if the white balance on your camera is correct).

Well, the parts are much more consistent at 350mA as far as the tint from part to part. Above that, some parts start to shift drastically at 500mA and some go clear up to 1000mA before they shift much. There is also a lot of color shift over the current range.

If you go back and look at the Vf curve, you will notice there is some tilt to it, as compared to the CREE XR-E, where they both use the same CREE EZ1000 die. As an LED die heats up, it's Vf drops, typically something like 2.0 mV per degree C. This may be what is going on, is the die is getting hot, and the thermal resistance is not what is stated on the datasheet. Another item one can look at is the change in wavelength with temperaturature of the blue die, which I hope to get to.

On the fourth production part which I soldered down (instead of thermal epoxy like the other three), just like the other three, it shifted right when it got up to the current (some cases only 500mA), not something that happened after some use.

Gryloc said:
What are they doing wrong with the phosphors? You mentioned using a different type, but something seems wrong about the extreme shifts. It scares me because it reminds me of accidentally overpowering the old Luxeon I and it turns that angry blue like it will fail at any moment.

Wrong? They may just be using a different mix for the YAG than others. Phosphors is a big area of patent activity, as well as how it is mixed in it's binders, and how it is applied. All this affects how well it works.

I was hoping that using agressive thermal techniques would help this part, it doesn't.

It could also be that the thermal resistance to the die is not what is stated in the datasheet. YAG phosphors will typically start dropping in output around 60C die temperature, and continue to drop as the temperature rises. This is the material that makes the broad band yellow (as well as the rest of the spectrum), and with the blue from the LED, what we interpret as white. Some YAG mixes are better than others. For an example of how a typical YAG phosphor performs, look here:
http://ledsmagazine.com/press/14132

I don't design LEDs for a living, I just use them in my designs, and one needs to look at things carefully, or risk jumping in the cauldron. As far as what is actually going on with the Seoul P4 LEDs, one would have to talk with their designers.


Gryloc said:
The pictures of the P4 emitter is discouraging, too. Thought the actual quality doesnt seem too bad, the way it was designed is odd. People are against the "gummy" domes. If it is like the K2 domes, I would fully accept them. How close are the "gummy" domes of the P4 to the K2?

There is quite a bit of difference, and not so much, depending on your point of view. I have not had the production parts long enough to do any sort of actual abuse or life testing.

Gryloc said:
What could they have done better with the internals of the P4 above the die? I see how the soft gel diffuses and disperses the light in a lousy way. Why isn't it clear like Luxeon and Cree?


No idea, this is another area where the Seoul parts have had a good amount of variance. Depending on how you treat the light source, this could help or hinder, depending on your goals.


Gryloc said:
Its way too milky, as though they didn't allow the silicone with the yellow phosphor to cure before they gooped on the filler gel. Also, why does the bond wires have to bee so long that they arch up and get in the way?

As to the cause, there are a number of things that could make this happen. It could be the supplier, the ingredients the supplier used, the production process that Seoul is utilizing, interaction with materials/steps in the production process, and a number of other things. No real idea as to the root cause.

Gryloc said:
I bet with that long, narrow bond wire, there is some good resistance. Maybe not. Finally, is the conformal coating of the die (where the phosphor is perfectly square and even like the shape of the die) patented by Lumileds? Why did they use that puddle of goop-like phosphor and not like how even Cree did it?


Keep in mind, there are some optical effects that magnify things, however, they are long enough and tall enough to cast shadows or be in the image of the die in a reflector. Yes, LumiLEDs has a patent on the way they do the phosphor application, and at least two other ways of accomplishing the same thing.


Gryloc said:
Oh, one more thing. Newbie, when are you going to take measurements of the flux of these P4s? I would like to see how they compare to the XR-E, even if its a similar die. That would be cool. I suppose that even if the LED is horribly blue, and it is super bright, I might have to try some of them. Alright, good luck and thanks...
-Tony

If I get access, I'll do some lumen testing, but I am not promising anything.


Meanwhile, there is some variance from part to part, on the production devices I have. Some batches may be better, some may be worse. And since Seoul has a history of constantly fiddling with their parts/process, hopefully we will see the parts evolve or improve. A risk one takes is that unseen or unknown items may cause issues later in the field. Another risk is that you may get in another batch that are not suitable for your product. Luckily, for modders and small time flashlight companies is that it isn't that big of a deal, you can just use something else, or choose and pick from what is available.

It will be very interesting to get parts in from other supply points, and see if they show the same characteristics, or if the Seoul parts just typically have the same types of variance that they have had in the past. It will also be interesting to see how they do over time with their constant evolution on their parts.
 

ICUDoc

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Now THAT is a heatsink, Newbie.
THanks for the further data.
I look forward to seeing a few SSC parts driven to 800mA+ to compare different tint shifts.
The science behind two production LEDs having such different tint shifts is unclear to me. Any ideas?
THANKS for the data. Good job.
 

wquiles

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ICUDoc said:
Now THAT is a heatsink, Newbie.
Those Zalmans are in fact awesome for CPU's up to 100 Watts or so, if I recall correctly. I use two of these in my dual Opteron setup motherboard. I am running two 852's at 2.6GHz and these Zalmans keep both CPU's at a very cool 20C or so. These HS's will even support my move to the 285 (dual core) Opterons sometime next year :rock: .

Will
 

PlayboyJoeShmoe

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Incidently... if you think funky tints show up only on these P4 LEDs, I wish I could show you the LED in my Madmax.

I'm talking side against white paper as Newbie has done. The Pink/Purple Low Dome in my Madmax shows several colors including a spot of WHITE very close to the LED. But through the NX05 it is PINK/PURPLE!

The BLUE/PURPLE LED in my KL3 got replaced with an XO LUXIII.

I rather wish my Madmax could get the same treatment!
 

NewBie

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wquiles said:
Those Zalmans are in fact awesome for CPU's up to 100 Watts or so, if I recall correctly. I use two of these in my dual Opteron setup motherboard. I am running two 852's at 2.6GHz and these Zalmans keep both CPU's at a very cool 20C or so. These HS's will even support my move to the 285 (dual core) Opterons sometime next year :rock: .

Will


The one I was using here is the CNPS9700 LED, which is one of their largest versions. The smaller version has a thermal resistance of 0.16-0.12 °C/W, the large one is unspecified.

It supports:
-Intel's Core2 Duo, Pentium D, Pentium 4- All speeds
-AMD Athlon 64 FX, Athlon 64 X2- All speeds
-AMD Opteron and Dual Core Opteron- All speeds

Found here:
http://www.zalmanusa.com/

The small one was reviewed here:
http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/04/25/six_coolers_for_amd_processors/page21.html

The differences between the small one and the large one's performance is shown here:
http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/10/16/zalman_cnps9700_led_big-ups_cpu_cooling/page2.html


Anyhow, back on topic, I did some more testing today. I used a fifth part for this testing, and found it by far shifts tint the least amount out of all five tried so far. This one will take three times the current that my worst on does, before shifting blue that much. Two people tell me they are seeing better results, maybe the batch that these came from wasn't up to snuff, I have no idea, but I do have more of them comming from multiple sources. When I get a chance, I will post some comparison results from the best and worst out of these five.

Relative measured intensity shift with temperature, supplied from a constant current source of 750mA, and monitored during the test to assure it held less than 0.1 mA movement off of 750mA, or 0.013% change, temperatures were allowed to dwell for 15 minutes to stabilize, and were held within 2 degrees C at each point. At ambient temperatures, the Vf was 3.76 and with a current of 750mA, for a power consumption of 2.82 Watts. With it's stated 6.7 C/W this puts the die temperature under 18.9 degrees above the slug temperature (some of the power goes out as light, especially with the more efficient CREE EZ1000 die that Seoul uses in the P4). Even at a 95C slug temperature, this put the die temperature at 113.9 C, well under the absolute maximum specification of 145 degrees C. The 2.82 Watts is also under the 3.8W absolute maximum power dissipation rating:

sp4tivst.png



I also ran an intensity vs. current curve. Conditions are on the graph, and when I say forced air, I really do mean it...

sp4tivsc.png



If you take a look at the curve, you will notice the brightness drops around 1200-1300mA (beyond the maximum current specifications). The part starts shifting blue around here, which may be hurting the brightness measurement. I was very happy to see at least one of the five showed significantly less shift than the other parts I've tested so far, and it occurred at a much higher current than the worst one, which started shifting much the same, but down at the 500mA-700mA range.

I did discover something very interesting, but we will need to wait for another day for those charts...hint- It has to do with phosphor and temperature. Oh, and the blue wavelength pretty much stayed put.
 

NewBie

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Well, I got good news and bad news.

Tonight, I got to looking at my Seoul P4 that shifts blue very rapidly above 500mA a little closer.

I took a set of crossed polarizers (black), and took a look at the die under magification on my LED that shifts the most. Just above 500mA I saw this very clearly:

sp4diea.jpg



For me it was one of those Eureka moments. I've never seen anything like this in an LED before. It only took a short moment to realize what I thought was going on. I know that YAG phosphors (which produce the broad band yellow to mix with the blue of the LED to make white) drop in output with temperature.

So what to do next. I decided to sacrifice this LED I paid too much for. First off, I decided to take the dome off. It turns out, unlike other LEDs, this is not a rubbery silicone dome filled with a jelly consistency gel, but the whole dome area is made from the same silicone that the outside is made from. The silicone was bonded well to everything, but a little liquid release agent, and it came loose from the slug. However, it was still bonded to the die, quite well. In the process of trying to tugging and pulling the dome loose from the die (where it was still very well stuck to), the die just popped off the slug, clean as a whistle.


What I found on the back side of the die was this:

sp4die3.jpg



What you are seeing here, is the shinny area that was bonded to the slug, and an area that was not bonded, and has oxidized and started turning black.


Here is a closer shot:

sp4die1.jpg



And a shot of the die:

sp4die2.png



Anyhow, for myself, this explains very clearly why I am seeing the variation in the strip of production Seoul P4 LEDs I purchased.

Will all parts vary like this? Who knows. In my past experience of working with high power LEDs over the past 5 years or so, I've always seen that Seoul does have variation in their parts, that I was unaccustomed to seeing in other brands that I've worked with- which include LumiLEDs, Nichia, OSRAM, CREE, and Toyoda-Gosei.

This does not mean that one should expect this from all the Seoul P4 parts, it is possible that a person could get a reel of parts that don't show this issue.

I am not absolutely certain, at what current Seoul bins their LEDs. Most of the specifications, and the binning looks to be done at 350mA. Below 500mA, I could not see any trace of this issue, whatsoever, it was uniformly the same color over the die area. Close to 500mA, I could see just an ever so slight shade of pastel baby blue, and right above 500mA, it started shifting hard blue very quickly. As I approached 700mA the whole die was pretty much blue, with the corner where there was no thermal transfer showing a distinct hard blue.

Anyhow, that was my adventure this evening.


Side note- With the die wires not being isolated from the outside by an inner gel fill, I noticed the bond wires actually do move when you press on the outside. It does not take much force to sheer the bond wires from the top of the die, and I'd highly suggest that every precaution is taken to avoid distorting the dome.
 
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Nereus

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Very interesting info, thanks Newbie! Not very good quality control... Btw, in Soeul datasheet they say that the led is rated at 350 mA. But you have an idea that it is not the case?

-N
 

NewBie

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Thanks.


Nereus said:
Very interesting info, thanks Newbie! Not very good quality control... Btw, in Soeul datasheet they say that the led is rated at 350 mA. But you have an idea that it is not the case?

-N


"The P4 emits 240 lm at 1 A of light and features the industry's highest luminous efficacy (100 lm/W @ 350 mA at the maximum) with only a single die, making it a brighter and more cost-effective light source compared to conventional 70 lm/W fluorescent and 15 lm/W incandescent lighting options.
"
http://seoulsemicon.co.kr/_homepage/home_eng/product/product.asp?topCODE=1&midCODE=25


If you look at the datasheet, they used 350mA for testing typical performance. The Absolute Maximum Ratings are listed after that.

I don't see 1A listed as in a maximum pulse condition. But they don't list clearly typical current levels to run their parts at.

I know McGizmo and Dat2zip have a number of their flashlight designs where they are driving it up to 917mA. Could be a language barrier, I guess I should get a hold of Seoul Semiconductor to clarify this point.


In case anyone is curious, this part is not the same part as the one I took up to 1.5A. The maximum this LED has been driven at is 1000mA (1A), and I've only taken it there for a matter of seconds. This part started shifting blue from the get go @ 500mA, and that was a sign that something was caddywhompus, so I didn't try driving it hard, or driving it for very long at currents above 700mA.
 
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EngrPaul

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NewBie said:
What you are seeing here, is the shinny area that was bonded to the slug, and an area that was not bonded, and has oxidized and started turning black.

Newbie,

It appears there may have been a foreign material in the unbonded area. I'm not sure it could have oxidized, being sealed and all.

This could happen in a surface mount soldering (or silver epoxy) attach where the one end of the component is lifted. A gap exists, and the insulative material wicks into the gap at a later process. In that particular area, heat was being created but not dissipated, so the material turned dark.

That's my take on what I see.
 
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