DIY guide to upgrade BOG 3W drop-in module ...

CM - sorry, I don't have any Li-Ion to test with, but I might be able to test with fresh 3 x AA NiMH (approx. 4.2V) as well as 5 x AA NiMH and see what the numbers look like.

I agree with you in that these complete drop-in modules are a great deal, given their price and performance.

John

No prob, I will do the test when I get my test unit. Your 3AA NiMH is an excellent test to simulate what Li-Ion would do also.

I disassembled mine, and ... yup, it's an SYALW also. I really like this module except for the tint, so it's worth it to me to buy a replacement star with more output and a better color.

Thanks for the mod instructions. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Mine is an SYAJW - I wonder if putting a TWOJ in there is worth the trouble...any guesses as to whether I'll notice the difference?

BTW - great pictures - thanks!!

CM, Illuminated,

I finally got to do some more detailed current measurements today. I took my time, used thicker wires, put the Fluke 87 in 4 1/2 resolution mode, and got some interesting data points (now I am also scratching my head!). Note that all current measurements are coming out of the battery into the module (not current going to the emiter).

1) from 2 charged RC123 cells.
Module 1 (original) = 610mA
Module 2 (UX1L) = 640mA

2) from 2 new CR123 cells
Module 1 (original) = 790mA
Module 2 (UX1L) = 730mA

3) from a charged four battery (two in series and then in parallel) pack of older 17670 cells with a battery station protection circuit (note this was the only test I did earlier when I reported constant current):
Module 1 (original) = 590mA
Module 2 (UX1L) = 594mA

4) from a single 14500 LiIon cell:
Module 1 (original) = 410mA
Module 2 (UX1L) = 330mA

So the modules apear give current with great variability depending on the battery pack and it's resistance & capacity. Weird /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif. So I was wrong when I reported a constant current circuit based on my initial data on a single battery pack - sorry /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

Now I really don't know what to think in terms of how the circuit does/might work. Clearly from actual usage and from the beamshots the UX1L is significantly brighter, but it looks like the battery type has a lot more effect on the actual current draw, and the current draw is not only based on the battery/pack' voltage.

Homefuly then CM gets his, we will learn more /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Will

I just measured 480mA's at tailcap with two RCR123's (Battery Station), and same with Battery Space RCR123's. Fresh Cr123's pull 590mA's. RCR's are more efficient with less battery sag, fewer amps, to run BOG LA at same brightness. Also, I must have a lower vf led than Will's.

Bill

[ QUOTE ]
mateen said:
Mine is an SYAJW - I wonder if putting a TWOJ in there is worth the trouble...any guesses as to whether I'll notice the difference?


[/ QUOTE ]

You should definitely notice an improvement in color, since the YA tint is very blue/purple and the W0 tint is close to ideal. (See the color map here.) I have a TW0K star on the way in a few days, and I will post the results of the upgrade.

asdalton,
mateen,

Yes, I think is work the change if you are not happy with the tint and/or intensity. My "U" bin is so much brighter and using about the same current as before, plus it has a nicer tint /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Will

Well I got the module today (big thanks to Flavio) but I asked for a dead one originally to dissect the circuit and now that's old news since there are some great pics of the circuit several posts up. I will try to see what's wrong and maybe fix it but there's no assurances.

Will's tests are real nice and I think I can shed some "light" on his results. The results appear consistent if one looks at the capabilities of each setup. Let me expound.

(Test 4) The 14500 draws the least amount of current since I believe the single cell doesn't have enough voltage overhead to put the converter into regulation.

(Test 3) This draws the least of two cell configurations since 17670's are beefier than RCR123's and thus sags less under load than the RCR123's.

(Test 1 and 2) The pair of RCR123's probably have a voltage of at least 7V under load vs less than 6V under load for the CR123's. Hence, less current draw from the RCR123's compared to the primary 123's.

If I can't get my module fixed, I'll order one and run tests using a bench supply looking at both load and source power but I think I will just confirm Will's results. So Will is probably not "wrong" as he indicated and his results actually support the hypothesis that this circuit is constant current.

I upgraded to a TW0K and I am quite pleased with it. I'm not sure if there's much of a difference in brightness, but the tint is much better.

WOw will, thank you so much!!!

I checked mine and it's a SYAL as well. Funny though, my particular SYAL is farily neutral and not a hint of pink ness, goes to show you how much the tint aries even within the same exact bin.

But since you mentioned it, I just bought a UX1L star. Can't wait!!

Heck, with a U-bin LuxIII, maybe the much-hyped/anticipated 5W drop-in from BOG just met its demise...JK /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Nick

I just did this mod to my BOG... went from a SAYJ to a UWOJ, the coller is MUCH better, abslute white and seems a little briter even in my room with all the lights on. My first U bined light . There both xxxJ's so I dont think this should have to much of an efect on runtime? Got my new star from photonfanatic. thanks Wquiles for poasting this, made it so easey it dont realey seem fair calling this a mod...Now off to wate for the sun to go down.

Outstanding - glad to hear everything worked out

Will