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Yoyomah20
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:welcome:Hi,
I've been lurking for a while and decided to register as in my research I have discovered that some cars have headlights which are suitable for a H11 to H9 conversion, while others are not. I wanted to seek advice on whether or not my 2014 Fusion is an appropriate canidate for this conversion. It has projector headlights, so I would think so but I want to air on the side of being cautious.
Those will be good (so long as the upgrade is permissible. -Virgil- may be along soon with that data).These are the H9 bulbs I was planning on buying, unless someone has something better to suggest.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YMPN3A/?tag=cpf0b6-20
The Philips HIR2 (which isn't applicable to your car) has a CCT of about 3450K. This is about as high as it gets given the properties the filament. I'm not sure why you'd want it any higher-- it doesn't need to "match" anything but the other lamp with the same function (high beam or low beam) and higher CCTs get harder for the human optical system to process.Also, it was my understanding that H9 bulbs have a slightly higher kelvin rating than H11, but these Philips seem to be rated at 3000k. Are there any bulbs with a kelvin rating slightly higher than that (maybe around 3400k) without being tinted/coated?
Okay, so I did a voltage drop test
battery voltage being around 12.18V
With the car on, and the battery voltage being about 14.42V, the drop was rather significant. The driver's side being 0.985V (resulting in 13.44V to the bulb) and the passenger 0.743V (13.68V to bulb).
I have a hunch, which you may be able to confirm or deny, which is that the SJB (Smart Junction Box, unit that controls voltages to headlights) is intentionally powering the headlights at around that 13.44/13.68V as to not overdrive the bulbs
Even further speculating (i.e. completely not based on facts - maybe you can confirm or deny this) it is powering the passenger slightly higher to prevent glare to oncoming drivers?
I guess I prefer a 3400K color because it's "closer to daylight"
if you say that it won't help improve my vision
How can the Philips XtremeVision H11s be rated at 3400K when they don't have a coating and aren't HIRs?
2) Is the claim that 4300K HIDs are better for night time driving because they're closest to daylight true? Or is that just a marketing gimmick?
I'll look into those. Would you say that the Xenon bulbs are worth the extra money? Or are the Platinum's sufficient for most cases?
My lenses are in perfect condition.
I couldn't figure out how to leave them connected and test the voltage, I just have a basic multimeter with the little pin test probes.
If it's the factory battery, it's possible it's approaching 5 years old. It's possible it's going out. There might be very light loads on it all night (the alarm system, for example) but that still seems like it might be a bit low. You might consider disconnecting the battery immediately after getting home and letting it sit disconnected for at least 8 hours. If it's at or below 12.4V after that, that could signal a problem. Is it extremely cold where you are? I'm assuming you must live in more northern latitudes because you say the lenses are in excellent condition, so perhaps you've also got some low temperatures going on right about now-- very low temperatures could affect the battery.I did the test after my car had been sitting all night