It would have been calibrated just as it is. Once they come to me for calibration, I NEVER open them up. They are calibrated with the head completely intact (reflector/bezel/lens) as one unit that will be shipped.
Dang I forgot how sexy the black bezel looks especially with the lower profile flush switch.
Since this is my first HDS light, I was worried while looking at the image of the HDS thread. Stainless steel silver can also be used as an accent, but the black bezel has the same black nitride finish as the rotary switch cap, so this time I chose a sense of unity. I've only used it for a few days, but it's a very good light that I can feel the developer Henry's strong commitment to.
I too see the 3700 as warmer than the 35 at least per your pic but the NB40 while technically the same temp looks noticably warmer than the ss40, again, at least it appears that way to me in that specific line up.
I am the exact opposite. I used to love the nb40 (still do). I picked up the SS40 when they first came out and compared the two. I went back and forth for a while but the SS40 won in the end. I feel like it has very slightly better cri and I prefer the yellowish tint of the SS40 over the redder tint of the nb40. So I sold the nb40. Both great emitters tho. And if I could, I would own both.
Haven't checked for awhile, and just saw this pricing last week. I mean.. I digg HDS lights.. but €500?!
Classic pairing of lights if there ever was one would have to be the Rotary and Haiku! The lettering on the new bezels has really come a long way and looks fantastic; I may have to order one.
Yeah, I've always eyed an HDS.
Here is my explanation. If it is correct I do not know. K&T are located somewhere in the EU. Therefore they must pay import tax, which is ~25% of the item value. Also they must pay 75$ for shipping.
High output is definitely not going to happen. I don't know whether Henry chooses the limits based on Watts into the body/surface temp, purely LED temp, time on high, or what, but overdriving and letting it get burning hot are both no-nos. Malkoff has no such qualms. Unfortunately, lm/W has not been increasing much, over the last several years, and that's what it will take to get much higher outputs in HDS lights. Thing is, I can count the times I've needed >100lm for EDC on zero fingers. Generally, when it comes to that, I'm doing something specific, that I've had time to prepare for, so can grab another, bigger, light, that has more mass and surface area.
Yes, I agree fully with you that in general you don't need more than 100 lumens for any EDC task. (Though, this does also depend on the individual and what their "EDC tasks" really are.
IR doesn’t like shiny things real hard to set the emissivity. try putting a piece of black electrical tape on it To get a corrected temperature.
Do you have accurate measurements? Somehow a bit too much, mine did not heat up more than 42 degrees Celsius. Could you measure on the black part of the lantern? Shiny surfaces sometimes give incorrect results. Can wrap it with paper tape, which is used to insulate windows. Paper has a higher emissivity than polished steel. I once tried to measure the temperature of a titanium polished lantern, the pyrometer gave me different results until I wrapped it with tape
