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The rotaries have a stainless switch cap now? Where have I been? When did this happen?
 
I’ve removed the dome on a few 519a emitters. I used the slice and scrape method. Pretty easy as long as the emitter is fully exposed. The quicker method of flipping the dome is rumored to introduce air between the glass and phosphor and reduce output. There’s also a theoretical a risk of completely ripping the glass off the phosphor.
 
Hogokansatsukan said:
Right from Nichia's Data Sheet. The 5700k should NOT be hitting right smack in the middle of 5000k especially with the narrow bin we have. Nichia is either playing silly buggers or figured that since most flashlight manufacturers lie about everything, they might as well join the bandwagon. It isn't how we do things here. It is why we spent tens of thousands of dollars on an integrating sphere rather than $50 on some light meter or better yet, some phone app.
We expect our customers to actually KNOW what they are getting and not give them some regurgitated info from a data sheet... which is often wrong.
Yes, data sheets **** me off when they are inaccurate... so in general, they mostly **** me off, but Nichia's have not been this bad in the past regarding Kelvin temp... which makes me think they mislabeled the real.
It isn't that they are bad emitters. Far from it. The 5000k is very nice in my opinion, and I will be putting some in a few lights for myself to play with, but they are NOT 5700k.
It is a little like getting a Snicker's candy bar in Japan. You fire into it expecting a good ol' USA type Snicker's only to find it has about half the sugar... not what one is expecting... and at first, a bit disappointing, but one may find they like it better over time... we shall see.
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I suppose the wrong stickers were pasted on some party and someone from the management does not want to admit the mistake. All subordinates are subject to it.

Some large companies hate admitting mistakes, especially such small. For example, what happened in Fukushima and how the engineers and company management acted. Now they generally want to drain the radioactive water into the sea.

I'm waiting for the new NVSW219C-V2 with a flat dome
NVSW219C-V2.png
 
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I received a shipping notification for the NB27 I ordered. I am amazed that it was completed in a week. Did you happen to have parts in stock? Or was the NB45 I ordered last time just extremely late due to some trouble? In any case, I was waiting for it to arrive by the end of June, so I'm happy with this speed.
 
I didn't realize the standard (black) Rotary cap is stainless steel now. I thought that was just a special run with raw stainless and that the normal part is anodized aluminum.

However, I just held a strong magnet up to the caps of two vintages and found:

2022 Rotary = mildly magnetic = probably stainless steel
2011 Rotary = not magnetic = probably anodized aluminum

Maybe something to do with the thin wall next to the assembly access hole (the small hole filled with a rubber plug)?
 
It makes sense. Stainless on both ends where it's most likely to land if it's dropped. Aluminum everywhere else.

Now I feel silly for passing on a raw stainless rotary tube because I figured it added weight over the standard one!

ETA...

Aluminum tube from 2011: 37.69 grams
Stainless tube from 2022: 50.60 grams.

For the full light w/16340 installed, it's about a 12% increase in weight overall. (103g old style, 116g new style)
 
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Duster1671 said:
Blackened stainless since May 11, 2020.
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muichimon said:
I received a shipping notification for the NB27 I ordered. I am amazed that it was completed in a week. Did you happen to have parts in stock? Or was the NB45 I ordered last time just extremely late due to some trouble? In any case, I was waiting for it to arrive by the end of June, so I'm happy with this speed.
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It depends on what emitters we have mounted, which one of our staff is waiting to be bailed out of jail, and if one of us is currently on a bender... which might lead to having to be bailed out.
 
Hogokansatsukan said:
It depends on what emitters we have mounted, which one of our staff is waiting to be bailed out of jail, and if one of us is currently on a bender... which might lead to having to be bailed out.
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I see, this time it was the result of various factors progressing smoothly. I was lucky because I was prepared for a delivery time of more than 5 weeks.
 
My (now second) sapphire lens coating on my HDS Rotary has micro scratches again. :(
Emailed two times, no response ...
 
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Same here. I’m not sure if was worth the upgrade from the regular lens. Other light makers that use sapphire, use one side coated AR, (which is installed towards the inside of the light) or non coated.
 
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PoliceScannerMan said:
Does it affect the beam?
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Definitely affects when viewed in a sphere, maybe if the scratches are very extensive, then just like dust, as Hogo mentioned, a little dust immediately reduces lumens by some % (I can not find this quote, but it was definitely here ). But this affects the shape of the beam very little, it can be seen on my SF and large lamp lights, which have a lot of scratches on the glass. If there are a very lot of scratches, then the beam will become more diffuse, as can be seen on car headlights
 
Not a little dust. A filthy lens. The kind of lens that, if it were a person, would need lots of penicillin. Pretty much all my HDS lights that get used. Can I tell the difference between a filthy lens and clean lens in use? Not at all. You would need a light meter or sphere to tell the difference.
Micro scratches will have NO effect on the beam. Most scratches will also occur in the center of the lens, which has the smallest impact. Most of the light leaving the end of the flashlight is from around the center, not the center itself, from a light with a reflector.
 
A note on sapphire. If any of you have, and I know some of you have, spoken with Henry about sapphire lenses, what he has told you is that they are simply for bragging rights. Does it make a difference in beam? No. Yes, they are harder to scratch, but scratches occur in the center of the lens because of the protective bezel. They make no impact on the beam. It is not a watch crystal that is exposed to and susceptible to getting all banged up. Watch crystals, yes sapphire is the way to go. On an HDS, it is just bragging rights.
Yes. My personal special metal lights will have sapphire lenses... only because of bragging rights. My users are all glass.
Why do we even offer sapphire lenses? Only because people want them.
 
The only problem is that with a anti-reflective coating on the outside, they DO scratch as easily as glass. It’s just the coating making it look scratched, instead of the sapphire. Basically it is sapphire in name only, at that point.
I scratched my Sapphire lens HDS, trying to clean it.
 
I don't care about minor scratches, but an anti-reflective coating on the sapphire lens scratches VERY easily.
For $73 the coating should be better quality.
I still have no response from HDS (sent two emails). :rolleyes:
 
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