Convoy T5 Issue

[Claypole]

I’ve had my Convoy T5 for a few months now, and up until now it’s been fine. However, yesterday it wouldn’t switch on.

As I was fault finding, I got it to work when I loosened off the bezel slightly. If I tighten it fully, then it works but output is reduced and it flickers intermittently

The TIR lens sits directly onto the emitter PCB, so I would think that the pressure exerted on the PCB when tightened up is causing an issue. I suppose having the bezel backed off slightly is a solution, but I would prefer to have it tightened normally.

I did also notice the O ring that sits between the front of the lens and the bezel is torn. These are 4p each from Convoy, so getting a replacement (or 10) isn'’t an issue, but I wouldn’t have thought this would cause this issue.

Anybody else seen this issue before?

 

[Jean-Luc Descarte]

I’ve had my Convoy T5 for a few months now, and up until now it’s been fine. However, yesterday it wouldn’t switch on.

As I was fault finding, I got it to work when I loosened off the bezel slightly. If I tighten it fully, then it works but output is reduced and it flickers intermittently

The TIR lens sits directly onto the emitter PCB, so I would think that the pressure exerted on the PCB when tightened up is causing an issue. I suppose having the bezel backed off slightly is a solution, but I would prefer to have it tightened normally.

I did also notice the O ring that sits between the front of the lens and the bezel is torn. These are 4p each from Convoy, so getting a replacement (or 10) isn'’t an issue, but I wouldn’t have thought this would cause this issue.

Anybody else seen this issue before?

Sounds like the driver's retaining ring is loose. That has caused intermittent contact in a few Convoys I've owned, including a T3 (same internals as the T5) when I dropped it from higher up one time after more than a year of bombproof performance including several previous drops.

Get your needle nose pliers (if you don't have any, watchmaker's tweezers will do, and Convoy sells an excellent set of said pliers) and try tightening the retaining ring.
Just about finger-tight will do. Don't overtighten it, or you risk crushing a component or solder joint. Found that out the hard way when a capacitor on the driver of an S2+ sat under an overtightened ring was crushed by the battery on a hard bezel-first fall. That one almost millimetric broken bit made it impossible to change modes.

 

[Claypole]

Sounds like the driver's retaining ring is loose. That has caused intermittent contact in a few Convoys I've owned, including a T3 (same internals as the T5) when I dropped it from higher up one time after more than a year of bombproof performance including several previous drops.

Get your needle nose pliers (if you don't have any, watchmaker's tweezers will do, and Convoy sells an excellent set of said pliers) and try tightening the retaining ring.
Just about finger-tight will do. Don't overtighten it, or you risk crushing a component or solder joint. Found that out the hard way when a capacitor on the driver of an S2+ sat under an overtightened ring was crushed by the battery on a hard bezel-first fall. That one almost millimetric broken bit made it impossible to change modes.
View attachment 87824

Thanks for the suggestion! The retaining ring was already tight, so I unscrewed it and retightened it. It did flicker again, but the 14500 cell was dying so I put a fresh Eneloop in and it seems fine now.

Maybe the ring was too tight? Either way, thanks again!

 

[Jean-Luc Descarte]

Ah, I see. No, it was not the retaining ring, nor intermittent contact, nor a driver fault.

That low mode with intermittent blinking is actually Convoy's low voltage warning. 100% intentional.

 

[Claypole]

Ah, I see. No, it was not the retaining ring, nor intermittent contact, nor a driver fault.

That low mode with intermittent blinking is actually Convoy's low voltage warning. 100% intentional.

Hmm, OK, cheers. I didn’t think I’d used it that much, but it is set to 100% only mode, so I guess the run time will be short.

I will charge it up and check again!

 

[Claypole]

I fully charged the 14500 and it’s no different, and the Eneloop shows the same behaviour too.

Just backing off the tightness of the bezel a little bit stops it happening, so I’m not sure what’s wrong…

 

[Jean-Luc Descarte]

I fully charged the 14500 and it’s no different, and the Eneloop shows the same behaviour too.

Just backing off the tightness of the bezel a little bit stops it happening, so I’m not sure what’s wrong…

Hmm. Then it seems like an interference in the driver's circuitry as you initially figured. Check this discussion on the subreddit: apparently the S21F and S21D (both also TIR lens lights) have similar problems.

 

[Claypole]

Hmm. Then it seems like an interference in the driver's circuitry as you initially figured. Check this discussion on the subreddit: apparently the S21F and S21D (both also TIR lens lights) have similar problems.

Thanks, I have read of issues with the bezel of the S21D.

I’m thinking it’s no coincidence the O ring is ruined, and it’s needed not just for water resistance, but also to help ensure the TIR is pushed correctly onto the LED PCB when the bezel is tightened up ‘normally’..

I think I’ll order a few O rings from Simon, which means buying another light in order to get free postage!

Thanks for your help with this!