What was the last LED light you purchased and why?

[PaladinNO]

Red Light options tend to fall into two colors, the more orange but higher output 620nm lights, and the more Ruby Red 660nm lights, also called Deep Red and Photo Red.

(SST-20) Deep Red (660 nm) is the one I want.

I have seen the ~620 nm, which I didn't know was only 620 nm at the time (Convoy L21B, CSLNM1.23). That was purchased for a friend, but looked way too Orange to us both. It also had only one mode by the way. We each wanted to buy a "Red" and Green "lightsabre" thrower. I went with a L21B (KP.CSLPM1.F1), which also was the wrong one - I wanted the pure Green, 525 nm. The KP.CSLPM1.F1 is phosphor converted, as far as I can tell now, and was much whiter than what I wanted. And that one had the advertised 4 modes.

I have still not recieved the Green flashlight I want - the L21A, KT CULPM1.13, I purchased later has the emitter so off-center, the hotspot don't resemble anything that can be called a circle. I have tried loosening the bezel and shake everything into position, but to no avail.

So between lack of knowledge at first, and my bad luck again coming to taunt me, I still haven't obtained the Red light theraphy light I want to try, or the Green lightsabre I want to own for fun. :/

The 850 nm S12 was purchased for a similar purpose as Red light, but it is supposedly penetrating deeper into the skin, helping with deep-tissue, tendon or muscle issues. Having pointed it at my gut, just a few centimetres away, and sat still for some 15 minutes...it feels like that spot of my insides are warming up, but not unpleasantly so. It feels almost like a localized massage taking place inside me.

I really can't say whether it's just a placebo effect, but it felt like it was helping. I have repeated the "treatment" several times, and moved the light around depending on the area I want to try it, and it has always either better or at least never felt worse after some 20 minutes. At that time the S12 gets quite hot to the touch though.

 

[jon_slider]

I went with a L21B (KP.CSLPM1.F1), which also was the wrong one

I made the same mistake (on right)...

The 850 nm S12 was purchased for a similar purpose as Red light, but it is supposedly penetrating deeper into the skin, helping with deep-tissue, tendon or muscle issues. Having pointed it at my gut, just a few centimetres away, and sat still for some 15 minutes...it feels like that spot of my insides are warming up, but not unpleasantly so.

sounds good

I feel my use of Red light is more than placebo, it seems to speed recovery from muscle aches after skiing. I also use it to reduce pain and speed healing of a muscle injury to my inner thigh, to relieve pain of arthritis in one of my fingers, and to relieve neck pain..

At that time the S12 gets quite hot to the touch though.

I would use a lower output to avoid excess heat

one of my 660nm Red Light sources is the Sofirn ST10. I use the Red on Medium to limit heat, I do not use the High mode. I sometimes clip it to my T Shirt collar to treat my neck for 20 minutes at a time. I find the clip convenient, and I like the USB-C 14500 battery it comes with. It also works on AA Eneloop:

 

[PaladinNO]

I would use a lower output to avoid excess heat

The S12 IR is also only single mode, as far as I can tell. Half-pressing the tailswitch makes the LEDs blink (momentary off), but not visibly change output.
While the emitted light itself is invisible to us Humans, it should still be possible to see a change in the shine in the reflectors, right?

If you're interested in a S12 IR, I would recommend moving the light to another location after 20 or so minutes. After 35 minutes, the irradiated spot (if that's an accurate description with IR) felt prickly. Almost like the sensation I get prior to a sunburn. Past an hour, the spot felt uncomfortable hot, like something had gotten too much heat, and was cramping up.

As for 850 nm vs 940 nm, from what I gathered, the 940 nm penetrates deeper, but the 850 nm has more power. 940 nm was more directed towards bones as I understood it. And in my case, that is not where I have had issues. My summary (take it several grains of salt) would be 660 nm for surface skin and blood veins, 850 nm for muscles and tendons, 940 nm for skeleton and joints.

Also, as I'm sure you already know, don't look straight into the IR LEDs or let stray rays hit your eyes for too long. Another reason why I have kept the light so close to my body. I am trying to get ahold of some IR-protective glasses (3M SF3750AS and SF3717AS), but the only E-tailer I have found locally sells them only in boxes of 20.

 

[Monocrom]

600 lumens black SureFire G2x Tactical.

Why? Very recently discontinued. And, I have a Ti Prometheus clip for it that is just sitting around all by its lonesome. Decided to fix that.

 

[jon_slider]

Almost like the sensation I get prior to a sunburn.

afaik sunburn is caused by UV, not red.. but it sounds like the 850nm power level is higher than necessary.. if it makes you uncomfortable, I would not hold it so close to the body

I do use closed eyes when I shine 660nm at 60 lumens, at my face in the morning.. I hold the light at arms length, so it does not seem excessively bright

The S12 IR is also only single mode

thank you for the info... sounds more powerful than I would want at direct contact, but that can be solved by using some distance

While the emitted light itself is invisible to us Humans, it should still be possible to see a change in the shine in the reflectors, right?

I dont have any experience to say.. I think one reason to mix 850nm w 660nm, is to provide a visible cue..

you may find this article about Red Light penetration interesting. It also points out that the effect of Red Light applied to one part of the body also produces benefits to other parts of the body.. maybe because Red Light invigorated mitochondria are transported through the blood stream to other areas.

 

[PaladinNO]

Im not aware of risk to eyes from Red Light.. afaik the danger to eyes is from UV.

I hope you're not confusing Red light with InfraRed (IR). As the eyes don't register the IR, they aren't constricting as they do with visible light, so your pupils stay dilated and keeps absorbing all of it. Fair point with the output power, though as the S12 is only single-mode, it's either full blast or nothing. Handle it with care if you get one.

I have caught a stray beam from the S12 UV, bouncing off a mirror, without protective goggles - that was instant pain. The IR is a slow burn, but gives a similar sensation. It just takes a moment to catch up, because the eyes and / or brain doesn't register it initially - and then it hurts.

I know it, because I just did it for a few seconds. I keep blinking, but there is no afterimage or flashing, other than a sort of faint whiteout of everything I see, like a frosted filter on top of my vision, and there is a distinct discomfort behind my eyeballs. It's slowly fading, but if this is after staring into IR for a handful of seconds, I will keep treating it with respect.

 

[Unicorn]

I'm not sure. I bought a Fenix TK17 to replace another Fenix that I've permanently misplaced, and that was to replace an older PD35 that quit working.
But thinking about it, more likely a small Acebeam as a Christmas present for a co-worker, and some cheap plstic AA lights I gave to a niece and a couple nephews. I also bought some slightly better ones for car emergency kits.

 

[TPA]

I picked up a few more of these Energizer power failure/nightlights. Hurricane season is here. Thunderstorm season is approaching. As much as I like my lanterns and flashlights, it's nice to have lights automatically handle power outages. 250 hrs on 3xAA batteries. Non-rechargeable, which is ideal for me.

 

[jon_slider]

Resistance was brief:
because Im a fan of Dual Channel
Treated myself to a Classic Copper host with Warm White and Red:

DUAL CHANNEL D3AA COPPER
Switch backlight color RGB
Channel 1 (2 LEDs) NTG35 2700K 95CRI
Channel 2 (1 LED) SST-20 deep red
Pocket Clip,
Magnetic tailcap
Total shipped $64

imo the price is a fantastic value

 

[AMD64Brunette]

Convoy T5 in bright orange.

Nichia 519 LED in 4000K

(Added a Vapcell 14500 1500 mAh battery for $3.64 extra.)

Wanted a more colorful alternative to my Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 Nichia,which is black.

 

[Monocrom]

- Ryobi USB lithium battery Flashlight with pocket-carry clip.
- Ryobi USB lithium battery compact Area light.

- Maglite Mini-mag. Pro 2AA black LED Kit.
(Complete with lanyard, pen-clip, 3 colored lenses, and hexagon rubberized head.)
--- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- ---
Wanted to try out a couple of Ryobi lights that take their proprietary USB Lithium 2.0 Ah battery (which you can get a 3.0 Ah version as well). Despite being proprietary, yes you can remove a depleted Ryobi battery from the lights. And, toss in one that is fully charged up. Keep using the light. There are some dedicated flashlight companies that could learn from Ryobi.

Maglite is for a little project. Take the grey barrel from another Pro version. Use that as the body. Keep the black head. Replace the black tailcap with a black tactical tailcap with an actual switch from a 3rd party. A tailcap switch that is much better than what we'd usually get back in the day from Nite-Ize. No nylon holster with the black kit. But the grey one I bought a year or two ago does have the holster. Okay, it's not much of a project. But it'll be a sweet Lego Mag. build.

 

[Lightman2]

Just got a Convoy T6 and just uploaded my review and photos…..enjoy. Didn’t really need another light or want one but the price was so good and I did some research and decided, ‘hey, why not’. Nothing like another light right? I was not disappointed. It’s now my main EDC.

 

[AMD64Brunette]

Just snagged a Fireflies E04 Surge in all-copper.

Don't have too many copper lights,and I wanted to try out a FFL505 LED. (3700K 95 CRI)

 

[fuyume]

A couple of months ago, I got myself both a Fenix TK22 TAC to serve as my bicycle headlamp and free up my Fenix PD36 TAC to be used as a dedicated EDC "tactical" personal protection light, and also a Fenix E20 v2.0 to replace my Nitecore EC11 as my EDC utility light, because I became frustrated with the EC11's complex UI.

I mentioned in anoher thread that, after buynig the two of those, I suddenly wanted to actually try a AAA light for the first time in many years, after swearing off AAA batteries as much as possible years ago (despite this, there are still several devices in my life that have no good alternative and take AAAs, so I have to keep buying them).

While browsing Amazon, I saw the Olight i3T EOS v1.0 was less than $13, so it was a total impulse purchase. I actually own two other Olights, but they were "free gifts with purchase from B&H Photo", that have never been opened, because I have zero use for them.

In any case, the i3T EOS arrived, and I have to say, for what it is, it's a fine little light.

I could wish it had a medium mode, but I like that it normally turns on in Low mode, although I wasn't expecting the full press off full press on within 2 seconds to switch modes. I assumed it would be more like my Fenix lights, full press on/off, half press to switch modes. But, the button is fairly stiff, so I don't fear that it's going to get accidentally activated. That being said, I specifically chose the v1.0 rather than the "upgraded" v2.0, which has a different UI.

It has a mechanical switch, so no parasitic drain. The beam quality is even and the color temp isn't too cold, although it is not a high CRI emitter (why do flashlight companies even use anything BUT high CRI emitters??). The Low level of 5 lumens is good for utility use at night, and the 180 lumen High mode is useful for short bursts, if this light is all you have on you. With an Energizer L92 lithium AAA, it weighs next to nothing.

If I were in a situation where a AA flashlight was just too thick, it's be happy to carry this light, even though it's not perfect.

I don't need it as a backup, since I am already carrying at least two lights on me at all times, my Fenix PD36 TAC for personal safety use, and my Fenix E20 v2.0 (when I'm carrying my full handbag) or E12 v2.0 (when I'm carrying just my personal safety bag) for utility use, with backup Energizer L91 lithium AA batteries for the E-series lights, *and* when I have my full handbag and/or briefcase, a Li-ion USB powerbank (or two) to recharge the PD36 TAC's 21700 battery, if it comes to that.

And when I'm on my bicycle, then I also have my Fenix TK22 TAC as my bicycle head light.

So, although it's highly likely that I will end up giving this light away to a friend in need of a basic light, for now I will keep it, because it might just be the thing I need for certain outfits, like if all i can carry is an evening clutch bag for a formal event, the Olight i3T EOS is still smaller than my Fenix E12 v2.0.

The Nitecore EC11 now serves as my nightstand light, and I am trying to constantly refresh my memory cell that holds the UI operation, so I don't keep forgetting. The 1 lumen Ultra-Low and the 5 lumen Red modes of the EC11 are why I bought it, and those are perfect in the middle of the night.

I now feel like I have a light to conveniently and comfortably cover just about any scenario I am likely to encounter, with one exception: I want a Fenix CL27R to keep on my kitchen table as a power outage lantern that will double as a 21700 charger to rotate batteries with my PD36 TAC and TK22 TAC. I stupidly completely forgot about the Memorial Day sale this year, when I could have got 20% off on one, but Labor Day will be here before long, I suppose.

 

[ChipDale]

I have got Lumintop FWAA and FW1AA both of copper, just because they are copper.

 

[jon_slider]

I have got Lumintop FWAA and FW1AA both of copper, just because they are copper.

Thanks for sharing very nice photos, congrats!

I just got a dual channel copper D3AA.. super fun too ;-)

more details in this post

 

[ChipDale]

I just got a dual channel copper D3AA.. super fun too ;-)

It's very tempting to get D3AA copper with the same configuration; NTG35 2700K and 660nm Deep Red. I have to look into my empty wallet...

 

[TPA]

I picked up a few LED clocks off Amazon for Prime Day. Of note, all of them are battery powered and the displays stay lit 24/7. Kwanwa & Peakeep brands. I've had some of the Kwanwa clocks for a few years. Now they offer them with neutral white LEDs, which make them totally unobtrusive in the room, whereas red or green will stand out.

 

[jon_slider]

Resistance was futile, ordered Polished Silver Dual Channel D3AA w silver button, 4200K and Red w tailmagnet and clip, all in for "just" $48, because:
I wanted the aluminum model, because it is lighter than the copper I just got, so the magnet would work horizontally..
(the one in the middle of this stock photo):

 

[PaladinNO]

No photos yet, but the last light I purchased for a specific use was a Convoy M21H, intended for late-night walks.

MAO version, SFT-70, 3000K, and kitted it out a bit, with a 24° TIR and serrated bezel.

MAO Convoy M21H , 21700 flashlight - Convoy flashlight

MAO Convoy M21H , 21700 flashlight

convoylight.com

Been using an Emisar K9.3, E21A 3500K + W1 Green up until now, and I feel even the 9x E21A LEDs doesn't give me the Lumen I want if I want to Turbo it for a moment. The single SFT-70 does. So happy with the purchase so far.