6 sided LS high dome ambers are out

[Go Go Gadget Flashlight]

Ken, yeah, I though so too. The amber with reflector matches the Mag pretty well. Makes me want to figure out how to mount it in there. I bet with the adjustable focus, I could get an even better spot out of the LS.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Ron:
Thanks for the info Gadget.

I was wondering how does this compare the the current amber Luxeon with Optics?

I was also wondering how much of a difference does the reflector make?

Ron<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Well, I don't have the optics for the low-dome amber. You can compare the raw LEDs vs each other in the prev post with pictures. I imagine the High-dome optics will look even better than my DB reflector (I would hope so!!).

Re: difference the reflector makes...
You mean the LS bare vs. the LS with DB reflector?
Tons! Without any reflector or lens, the high-dome is just a really bright source on the pcboard. It lights up about a 160 degree area. Pretty useless as a flashlight without any culminating optics.

 

[PeLu]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Go, Go Gadget Flashlight:
The batwing has definite rings and dark spots when compared to the lambertian. The batwing's not bad, but the lambertian is perfect.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Of course. That's how a lambertian radiator is defined .-)
OK, I know manufacturer's claims and real life are different.
(and I do NOT write now that all these is already told by the light distribution diagram .-)

 

[PeLu]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Go, Go Gadget Flashlight:
IAnything else you'd like to see Ken? Anyone else?

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yes, what is it's backplane temperature then?

 

[Go Go Gadget Flashlight]

Unfortunately, I have no way of measuring that. I have a heatsink directly in contact with the LS's aluminum base. And heatsink compound in between, of course.

Even if I could assume the center of the heatsink was very near the true temp., I don't have a contact thermometer.

All I can say was, it got very warm. Not too hot to touch, though. About 110 - 120 F if I compare it to hot water out of the tap which is 135 F.

Real scientific, huh?

For lack of real equipment, is there any way to test the temp.?

 

[PeLu]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Go, Go Gadget Flashlight:
About 110 - 120 F if I compare it to hot water out of the tap which is 135 F.

Real scientific, huh?
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

It's OK. That means the junction temp is about 70°C, coming to almost 50% output reduction (even worse for the Lambertian).

 

[The_LED_Museum]

Ok, it's my turn now... I "found" a couple of these Lambertian models in a box of stuff that showed up scratching & meowing at my door this morning.

I'll get them hooked up a bit later... I have a new power supply that needs only minor repair, but it should be capable of driving these at rated current unlike the one I've been using.

The new PSU isn't the kind you're supposed to use, but if I hook up meters all over the place and watch them carefully as I start cranking it up, I should be alright.
Then again, maybe I should hit the 'Shack for some large power resistors just to be on the safe side.

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I found some Lambertian (high dome) amber Luxeon Stars with Optics (LXHL-NL94) at http://www.markhannahsurplus.com.

The cost is $15 each plus $3.50 for S&H.