Armytek Wizard Pro Prototype Long-Term Testing

[RedForest UK]

By the way, Armytek replied to my query on the green gen 1 XM-L appearance on CPFmarketplace.

We use XM-L2 LED.
Green mask of copper MPCB can give you this green ring. :)

I'm having a hard time picturing what it actually looks like under the TIR, but I see no good reason to think that they are less reliable than my eyes (when looking at a distorted image through a TIR lense at least!).

 

[ArcticHighlander]

some initial thoughts:
-i ran it on turbo pointed up to light up a room, and after 5 mins, the heat protection kicked in (5blinks and goes to 100lm to cool off) then went back after 10-15s of cooling automatically. I presume that outside with some wind it will stay in turbo for the hour

If it kicked in after just being on high for 5 mins, it sounds like you have a defective light.

 

[bradthebold]

If it kicked in after just being on high for 5 mins, it sounds like you have a defective light.

Yeah, during Knight_Light's test, his light got ~50˚F hotter at the head from 5 minutes to 1 hour and never tripped protection. So your light must be heating up insanely fast or it is tripping protection at far too low a temperature.

 

[paja-jojo]

Yeah, during Knight_Light's test, his light got ~50˚F hotter at the head from 5 minutes to 1 hour and never tripped protection. So your light must be heating up insanely fast or it is tripping protection at far too low a temperature.

I did the same test - room temperatire was 27 °C and after fife minutes the thermal protection kicked in the switch was blinking greenisch which acording to manual means 65°C - it dropped to 100lm and then after some time hop on max again - this is quite annyoing i thing the other temerature protection levels are unnecessary this way - if it drops to 100lm on 65°C it newer gets hotter than 65°C unles external temeperature is above 65°C which is insane but still the light would just go to 100lm. I would be better if for exmaple on 65°C the protection dropped the intensity to 550LM, then on 75°C to 250lm and on 80°C or above to the 100lm - this way you would get far more convinient stepdown efect than from 1010lm to 100lm - which in certain occasion can mean no visibility at all.

 

[Lampyridae]

Can anyone who has WPro comment, please. Does yours look like this?

http://imageupload.co.uk/files/33c5fpk97877foyhyh5q.jpg

from another angle:

http://imageupload.co.uk/files/t67rrct5s3p5b77rnkxz.jpg

Is it part of seal (O-ring?) comming out? I'm concerned about potential water leak, because I'm not sure if any of it is left between bezel and TIR at that particular spot...

Knight_Light, thank you for your answer. I thought so. I'm a bit concerned because I sent them e-mail on Thursday, same day I got it, and still no answer. During the process of ordering and shipping, I e-mailed them twice about some import papers, Armytek service was very complaisant and they always replied in few hours. I see some other people are also waiting for answers couple of days, so I'll just have to be patient, I guess...

I decided to mail them once more on Monday and got replay in an hour... After appologies for waiting, I've been told they have to consult their technician specialist and will contact me further. On Tuesday I got an e-mail convincing me everithing is ok with my lamp and that I should incise the redundant part of O-ring by myself. That action will have no influence in water resistance nor IP68 standard will be reduced.
I must admit I'm very afraid to do anything with sharp items like scalpel around TIR lenses so I'll just leave it this way. Maybe somebody has advice how to do it safe...

 

[Beacon of Light]

I should probably test both lights I have on the higher output modes to make sure they are working ok and not heating up and stepping down prematurely, but since I'm pretty much only using firefly 1 and firefly 2 I never really venture out of those 2 modes.

 

[RedForest UK]

Why would you purchase relatively large lights if you are only to use them on low outputs?

I understand your want/need for low levels, but then why not minimise the size of the light itself (as you'll have long runtimes anyway) and carry a spare cell if you think you may need it.

One of the main factors in the design of this light is optimization and efficiency at high outputs. For low levels there are more efficient emitters and more efficient (size/weight wise) lights overall.

 

[toysareforboys]

Why would you purchase relatively large lights if you are only to use them on low outputs?

I understand your want/need for low levels, but then why not minimise the size of the light itself (as you'll have long runtimes anyway) and carry a spare cell if you think you may need it.

One of the main factors in the design of this light is optimization and efficiency at high outputs. For low levels there are more efficient emitters and more efficient (size/weight wise) lights overall.

Because we like using inappropriate tools for inappropriate purposes :)

I get more ooooh's and ahhhh's with my SC600MKii on its lowest mode, than I do on its brightest :)

I love monster monster lights that can go super super low. Who knows why, maybe I just like to go low??

-Jamie M.

 

[tony613]

I decided to mail them once more on Monday and got replay in an hour... After appologies for waiting, ...

I hoping if I post I'll change my luck, but I still have not received ANY responses from my emails regarding the missing battery and charger, and that is from last Thursday, July 11. Thus far I've tried three times. The first two emails I sent used the address from the order confirmation email I received - [email protected]. And just in case there was something wrong with that email address, the last one was yesterday around noon (+/-) eastern daylight time, using my account in their website directly.

Lampyridae, if you don't mind, what email address did you use to get a response within one hour??

Is anyone else still waiting days without any responses?

Thanks.

 

[Lampyridae]

Tony, I used - [email protected], always around 8-9am eastern time...

 

[RedForest UK]

I get more ooooh's and ahhhh's with my SC600MKii on its lowest mode, than I do on its brightest :)

I love monster monster lights that can go super super low. Who knows why, maybe I just like to go low??

-Jamie M.

I agree that it's great that they can go low, versatility is one of the best assets for a mid-sized light. But Beacon of Light seems to repeatedly imply that the only ever uses the lowest levels on any of his lights. In that case then surely a dedicated and more specialised version would be a better choice. The Preon P0 for example is one that I'm sure would suit those uses very well.

Nice picture btw, it reminded me of this video: [video]http://www.youtube.com/embed/7ZmJtYaUTa0[/video]

 

[toysareforboys]

I agree that it's great that they can go low, versatility is one of the best assets for a mid-sized light. But Beacon of Light seems to repeatedly imply that the only ever uses the lowest levels on any of his lights. In that case then surely a dedicated and more specialised version would be a better choice. The Preon P0 for example is one that I'm sure would suit those uses very well.

Nice picture btw, it reminded me of this video: [video]http://www.youtube.com/embed/7ZmJtYaUTa0[/video]

Awesome vid, had not seen. On a road bike too, guys got skillz.

-Jamie M.

 

[petr9999]

If it kicked in after just being on high for 5 mins, it sounds like you have a defective light.

this was with the ligh tailstading on a table, if i hold it or walk outside with it on my head, it stays in turbo. I think he had a fan blowing on the light during the test?

 

[Beacon of Light]

But Beacon of Light seems to repeatedly imply that the only ever uses the lowest levels on any of his lights. In that case then surely a dedicated and more specialised version would be a better choice. The Preon P0 for example is one that I'm sure would suit those uses very well.

I own 5 Preon 0 lights and they are cool but I need to get the newer revision as the older ones don't work with Eneloops without causing the PCB to get worn or cracked. Also I prefer headlamps to flashlights so the P0's collect dust for the most part.

 

[Beacon of Light]

Good point and I agree, there was no need for their larger size since I do use only the lower levels of any light I own. Curiosity and the hype of this light made me want to see what the fuss was about as well as it being my first 18650 light. To be honest I usually run my Zebralight 1xAA headlamps on AAA cells in an adapter for the most part. So to answer your question as to why I'd want such a big light that has these outrageous light outputs? "Because I can" is the best I can come up with.

Why would you purchase relatively large lights if you are only to use them on low outputs?

I understand your want/need for low levels, but then why not minimise the size of the light itself (as you'll have long runtimes anyway) and carry a spare cell if you think you may need it.

One of the main factors in the design of this light is optimization and efficiency at high outputs. For low levels there are more efficient emitters and more efficient (size/weight wise) lights overall.

 

[Knight_Light]

Preliminary and very rough OTF output readings suggest 170/360/725 for the top three modes rather than the 250/550/1010 listed by Armytek. I'll test again when it is dark though and I can get more accuracy.

Did you by any chance get more accurate readings on the OTF output? That's a 30% difference from claimed output.

 

[Knight_Light]

I'm happy with my H600 but still tempted by this wide model. Changing the armytek headband so it didn't look like something out of 1972 would be nice...yes, I'm that vain :)

I would recommend getting the regular model not the wide should you decide to make the purchase.

 

[Knight_Light]

Good point and I agree, there was no need for their larger size since I do use only the lower levels of any light I own. Curiosity and the hype of this light made me want to see what the fuss was about as well as it being my first 18650 light. To be honest I usually run my Zebralight 1xAA headlamps on AAA cells in an adapter for the most part. So to answer your question as to why I'd want such a big light that has these outrageous light outputs? "Because I can" is the best I can come up with.

Could you please explain to me for curiosity sake why you would use AAA batteries with an adapter in a AA headlamp? You know they make AAA adapters for 18650. Just saying. :)

 

[Knight_Light]

this was with the ligh tailstading on a table, if i hold it or walk outside with it on my head, it stays in turbo. I think he had a fan blowing on the light during the test?

I did not have any fan blowing on my lights. They were never touched during the duration of the test except to turn them on and turn them off. When I was doing the test I expressed my concerns for the high temperatures. Maybe Armytek implemented a different thermal cutoff point for the production light. I would be interested if others could do a runtime test on Turbo and see if they can replicate my results.

 

[RedForest UK]

I own 5 Preon 0 lights and they are cool but I need to get the newer revision as the older ones don't work with Eneloops without causing the PCB to get worn or cracked. Also I prefer headlamps to flashlights so the P0's collect dust for the most part.

When I contacted 4sevens about an issue with my first version P0 having used eneloops they allowed me to simply send it back for a new version replacement. So you might want to look into that.

I would just suggest trying the high outputs outside, even if just for fun. The turbo mode on this makes you feel like daylight is following wherever you look. It's in this sense quite possibly the best/most effective lighting tool that I have ever owned.