Stumps where they're not wanted; the bane of mankind since being banned from The Garden.
Sorry, ven. Reads like you had a terrible go at it.
Sorry, ven. Reads like you had a terrible go at it.
Cordless power tools
- Thread starter Buck91
- Start date
Its a royal PITA CG, its eat 2 chains in maybe 2hr-3hrs use. So thats a chain every 90 mins! So no more saw use on it now, its just cost me another £23 on 2 chains for back ups. But my job that i actually got the saw for, wont eat through them anywhere near as quick.
Once my hands have recovered, i will get the rest out to level it and then i can do something with the little end area.
Once my hands have recovered, i will get the rest out to level it and then i can do something with the little end area.
:whistle:
Been there. Done that. My dad and I used to wash um down with a garden hose, trying to remove the dirt n pebbles. Didn't work. How do they get in there?!
Sorry. I'm really not mocking your pain.
Been there. Done that. My dad and I used to wash um down with a garden hose, trying to remove the dirt n pebbles. Didn't work. How do they get in there?!
Sorry. I'm really not mocking your pain.
:laughing: its OK CG, i promise i wont return the favour :nana: My recip is too short, i need about a 4ft saw! Will hand saw it over the weekend , there is not a massive amount left now.
I've sharpened chains and saws you just need to get the right file and mark where you start and get the right angle and a thick glove on your hands to keep from cutting yourself. I've taken stumps out and sometimes an axe and a wedge and a 20lb sledge works just as good if you can cut it and split it. I will say that you probably saved a bunch vs paying someone to grind a stump.
Luck would have it, i have a huge sledge, i am sure its a 40lb er. I have thought for the last bit using a sledge, in fact it was prior to this last bit of fun. i cant find it! Thats how full the garage is. My priority job is cleaning/organising the garage out. Just cant do it until the tips are back open(should never have shut IMHO, ridiculous and one of the easiest places to manage during this lockdown). Cone off every other space, allow X in and X out. So needless to say and unsurprising, fly tipping is on the increase(by a large way). Obviously i am not a part of that. I am pondering a skip, or buying another trailer . Again till the tips open, no where to store it ! I need it to shift the stuff.
kaichu dento
Flashaholic
Ironically the only mowing I did today was when I was trying to get rid of the old mowers from the shed and ended up running the old all-steel Craftsman manual mower.
The DeWalt didn't have the box, so that saved me a step and I came so close to using it twice today, but have no room for the clippings until Monday, so that will probably be its maiden run.
kaichu dento
Flashaholic
The DeWalt already surpassed my expectations with how light, adjustable and easy to load up, with the two handles.
On your stump, I rented a stump grinder last year and with good prep work, we had it all gone and turned into a hole in the ground in less than two hours. I could have fought that thing for a week if I'd done it by hand.
Awesome, glad happy .
Just checked out the stump humper! Haha, never seen one before, very cool. Would be a bit tricky where it is(even if i could find one) due to it being on a hill/mound. Renting one right now is not easy either, looking at the size of some, would not fit down the side anyway. I will get it sorted, then level it at some point.
Poppy
Flashaholic
Stumps are a real PIA. It sounds like your's is huge. I have pulled a couple, and how they get rocks embedded is beyond me, but they are always positioned to kill your blade. Instantly! I have dug a circle, farther out from the stump, to expose roots, and then cut the roots. Then got a chain under it and tried to pull it with my truck. A straight pull doesn't work as well as building something up in front of it so that the chain has a lifting angle to it.
I suspect that you can't do that because it is at the back of your property.
If you could get a metal tripod over it and do a straight up lift with a winch.
I suspect that you can't do that because it is at the back of your property.
If you could get a metal tripod over it and do a straight up lift with a winch.
idleprocess
Flashaholic
I have dealt with two stumps at my residence with ginger application of a non-power tool - the San Angelo bar. I've got some fresh shrub stumps to deal with and expect to generate more, thus I'll be putting gravity - and a 16lb chunk of iron - to work yet again soon enough.
kaichu dento
Flashaholic
With the problem of stumps being brought up so much I thought I'd share how I've been taking them out new ones for years now. My method however requires that I'm the one taking the whole bush or tree out and starts by cutting the roots all around the base. I'll usually start by cutting everything away that could get in my way, leaving as much of the center main part of the bush, or just about 4-8' of the tree. After cutting all emanating roots with my Estwing ax (very narrow cutting profile) then I start rocking or pulling until I get enough movement that it comes out of the ground, bringing tap root and all with it.
I started doing this years ago when I was a snowmobile guide and noticed that anything in the trail that had been cut off would continually be a problem for years until it was dug up. With the top of the tree still remaining there is something to hold onto for leverage and it's surprising how large of a tree can be taken this way, with no stump left to cause problems later on. It will only work up to a point though, and the only large tree I ever removed this was was a birch tree down near the river that was probably 10-12" and 40-50' tall, which took me a lot of hours. The next largest one I took was a black spruce that was 4-5" and 15-20', which I ended up taking home for an outside Christmas tree that we stood up out front where we had no trees. It stayed until the snow melted and it started falling over. Brought it home by setting the base end on the snowmachine and straddling it for about 6 miles down the mountain and across the river.
I started doing this years ago when I was a snowmobile guide and noticed that anything in the trail that had been cut off would continually be a problem for years until it was dug up. With the top of the tree still remaining there is something to hold onto for leverage and it's surprising how large of a tree can be taken this way, with no stump left to cause problems later on. It will only work up to a point though, and the only large tree I ever removed this was was a birch tree down near the river that was probably 10-12" and 40-50' tall, which took me a lot of hours. The next largest one I took was a black spruce that was 4-5" and 15-20', which I ended up taking home for an outside Christmas tree that we stood up out front where we had no trees. It stayed until the snow melted and it started falling over. Brought it home by setting the base end on the snowmachine and straddling it for about 6 miles down the mountain and across the river.
alpg88
Flashaholic
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2005
- Messages
- 6,276
my 18v nicd tools served me well, but i needed to get new tools that i did not have, (planer, blower) and they were only available in 20v li ion, so i decided to replace all with modern li ion, except jig saw, that one i got dewalt adapter for, to run on 20v batteries.
Sweeeeet baby Jesus :rock::party::party::party:
Awesome dewalt family , the 3sp drill is a beast! Not used mine that much yet, so not fully tested out on anything too challenging . The 3sp impact is my most used tool, especially on the 1 setting precision. Be interested long term if you get the little contact issue (light cuts out with power ). I returned 1 , with the 2nd , figured the fix out on the 887 , with the slight bend of the contacts. Been faultless since, the latest 887 for home I tweaked them straight away(maybe should have left them and see what happened on the 3rd 887. Either way both work perfect . Setting 3 is crazy powerful and will whiz wheel nuts off easy(well as long as less than 204nm anyway).
I used 2 and 3 originally on m12 bolts (some m16). That's when I decided on the 1/2 impact . Although my Milwaukee 1/4 to 1/2" adapters are very tough, after breaking a couple , just made sense for tougher 1/2" stuff to use an actual 1/2" drive.
Hope they serve you well:)
Awesome dewalt family , the 3sp drill is a beast! Not used mine that much yet, so not fully tested out on anything too challenging . The 3sp impact is my most used tool, especially on the 1 setting precision. Be interested long term if you get the little contact issue (light cuts out with power ). I returned 1 , with the 2nd , figured the fix out on the 887 , with the slight bend of the contacts. Been faultless since, the latest 887 for home I tweaked them straight away(maybe should have left them and see what happened on the 3rd 887. Either way both work perfect . Setting 3 is crazy powerful and will whiz wheel nuts off easy(well as long as less than 204nm anyway).
I used 2 and 3 originally on m12 bolts (some m16). That's when I decided on the 1/2 impact . Although my Milwaukee 1/4 to 1/2" adapters are very tough, after breaking a couple , just made sense for tougher 1/2" stuff to use an actual 1/2" drive.
Hope they serve you well:)
If plan on using impact in anger and plan on driving large screws . The higher rated packs are a must. Don't mean you have to go crazy, but 4a or 5a are more than sufficient for most typical uses . Driving large screws (Like 10" bad boys)seems to pull down the 1.5a and 2a packs ,the tool starts to struggle due to voltage sag.
Obviously for general smaller house type work , the smaller packs will hold up fine.
Obviously for general smaller house type work , the smaller packs will hold up fine.
In reality the ratings on packs is Ah (Ampere hour) not AMPS so it is possible a lower Ah pack may handle higher current loads better due to lower internal resistance of the batteries. The reason there is noticeable difference in the higher Ah battery packs is because of additional layers of cells in parallel distributing the current load over 2 or even 3 cells vs 1 cell. This reduces the power needed from each cell to 1/2 or 1/3 that of a 1 layer pack. In other words it is possible depending on individual cells that a 6A pack of dual layer cells (10 batteries on a 20v pack) may sag more under load than a 3-5A pack that has cells able to deliver higher current. The advantage is that for most purposes a 2 layer pack higher capacity cells tend to deliver longer runtime due to the difference in internal battery resistance doesn't offset the capacity of the batteries in use. A triple layer pack under very heavy drain could last a lot longer than 50% more than a dual layer pack of identical cells due to decreased power loss to internal resistance of the batteries themselves. In addiction under extreme conditions you can have batteries heat up and trip the thermal circuitry and also when they are near depletion they can heat up even more and take a long time to cool down before the charger allows them to be charged.
I have found the exact opposite, lower ah packs under heavy use sag quick and loose power. Going from 3 lights to 2 very quick. IMO 4a up is a must for anything more than hanging a door(impact driver here) or 2. Repeated heavier use , 1.5 and 2a just dont cut it with their single layer of 5 cells. Yes spreading the load over more cells is less work for each cell to do, long term better for their life IMO. My oldest 5a is 2017, still charges, works as new, but its never been abused or run right down lots of times.
Depends of course if its worth the investment for the user, i am just suggesting any bigger jobs, a 4a or 5a pack will supply the impact driver much better in hard conditions, over a 1.5 or 2a pack.
Depends of course if its worth the investment for the user, i am just suggesting any bigger jobs, a 4a or 5a pack will supply the impact driver much better in hard conditions, over a 1.5 or 2a pack.
Interesting , from what I have seen I think they are 21700 cells. Not actually looked myself......yet! I am led to believe some early packs use 20700 and newer 21700. It seems a bit of a confusing mess. The 6a flex uses 18650, the 9a use 21700 in latest packs , 20700 in earlier flex . It also appears the 20v packs have used 20700 in earlier and 21700 later.
From what I have found the 20700 are Sanyo, the 21700 Samsung ,35T ,40T
21700 from 2019 .
From what I have found the 20700 are Sanyo, the 21700 Samsung ,35T ,40T
21700 from 2019 .
I would guess as time goes on 21700 will be the standard of cells for larger capacity packs and 20700 will be phased out totally as having both sizes makes for 3 different pack sizes. I expect 18650 to stick around longer as the cells are probably cheaper to get a single layer
pack of and 21700 I believe is about 50% more capacity and most likely not as capable as a dual layer 18650 pack.
pack of and 21700 I believe is about 50% more capacity and most likely not as capable as a dual layer 18650 pack.
