D3c, another D25c MKII, or...

[tjswarbrick]

I used to have a Titanium EagleTac D25c with 219c. Loved that thing. Took it swimming one to many times. Even with a replacement tail switch, I could not bring it back to life.
In 2021 (after losing my HDS Clicky) I replaced it with a D25c Clicky MKII, also with 219.
Also a great light, though color rendition isn't quite as natural as I remember from the Titanium one.
It also comes on inadvertently in my pocket every now and then.
For the past year or so, though, Programmable Features appear to be disabled.
I used to keep it in Moonlight, because I find that so much more serviceable to every day tasks, and Hi is so easy to get to by tightening the head.
Now, though, in head-loosen Group 1 it comes on in Strobe. Always. It'll cycle down to "low", but won't stay put.
And won't go into Moonlight at all.
I've performed Start-up Level Setting from Low, and Mode Memory from Low. Still comes on in Strobe for Group 1. Since Strobe is so accessible in Group 2 (tight head) this is not a setting I have ever selected from Group 1 (head loose.)
I've contacted EagleTac, cleaned all contacts, cleaned and greased threads with Nyogel, replaced battery. Programming just isn't coming back.
So:

I think I need to replace it with one that'll allow me to get into the Moonlight series again. And I really love the Ti.
Can anyone here confirm from experience / measurement that the Titanium D3c actually weighs the same 29 grams (1 oz) as the aluminum D25c MKII?
Seems amazing. All my other Ti lights are kinda tanks, for their size.

I think I'll go for the 519 this time, if I can find one. I love Nichia Hi-CRI color rendering, but do kinda like a neutral rather than overly warm color temperature.

 

[tjswarbrick]

I could only find the 519A at IlluminationGear, and for some reason they can't seem to ship to me.
Stumbled upon the FWAA. Looks pretty amazing for the price. Nearly the same size, with a 14500 battery. I don't really need 3 emitters. I can't foresee a use case for such a bright Turbo mode in a small light with a floody beam. But it looks like it has easily accessible Moonlight along with solid memory. Titanium is a bit heavier than the EagTac, but still pretty light. And much lighter and more compact than an HDS Rotary or my RRT01 Raptor. Leaning that way unless you guys warn me off of it.

Does anybody think a new tail switch will bring the 5 year old D25c MkII back to health? Or should I relegate it to the "backups' bin?

 

[aznsx]

Hey!

Sorry to hear of the issue(s) with your D25C.

I normally don't have multiples of any light, but I do have a whole handful+ of D25Cs (mostly MKII), and several D25As also - all in AL - no Ti. I bought a D25C, and liked the package, and was also wanting to test drive several different emitters in the real world during that same period, so that's why I have mulltiples. They started out as' test mules' for LEDs, but also became one of my favorite lights, and I use them every day.

Just to tick one box in your post, I see that the Ti version doesn't seem to have a correct published weight, but yes, it will certainly be heavier than the Al, and considerably so. If you compare the D25A Al at 24 gms. vs the Ti model at 34 gms., that gives you an % idea of how much heavier the D3/Ti version might be vs Al. I'm not a fan of Ti lights, weight and thermal conductivity being two big reasons, but to each their own, and shiny things are cool!

Re: UI (problems aside for a moment), you might want to know that a change was made, maybe ~ 18 mo. ago(?) to the D25C MK II interface. Strobe was removed from Group 2, leaving only Max out, and no other options w/ head tight. I like that, because I often shift straight to G2 when I grab the light and already know I need Max out, but sometimes I'd forget I wasn't in G1 on High and tap the switch to go to different level, and get Strobe unintentionally. That problem disappears with the revised firmware, so I never accidently get Strobe with those lights now. Strobe is still accessible in G1 on the 3rd pass through the output levels on the same power cycle as always, so it's still available if needed but unlikely to be hit by accident.

The functional issues you're describing sound particularly strange to me. I've not had any functional failures as such aside from replacing a couple of well-worn switches, but nothing in the head electronics. The only other 'issues' I've had with any of the ETs have been totally routine flashlight stuff (contact issues / oxidation), all easily corrected immediately and for long term with a wipe with a DeoxIt D100 moistened swab. What you're describing sounds a bit more serious to me, but give me a chance to think it over and I'll see if I come up with any ideas to try. I do hope it doesn't involve water ingress, because if it does, that would be a different animal.

The 3 D25Cs that I use every single day have:

• SST20 R9 CRI-95 4000K
• 519A CRI-93 4500K
• 519A CRI-93 5000K

Those are my 3 favorites, and they're all 3 ideal in slightly different situations. I like them all a lot, but probably the last one I would want to 'lose' would be the SST20;-)

Lastly if I may ask, what the situation with IG's shipping to you (or not)? I've done a lot of biz with them and communicated with them a lot as well, and I'm not sure what kind of shipping issue you might be referring to. I ask because I was thinking of ordering something from them this week (another Sportac P60 w/SST-20), so I went to the site and did see this on the front page:

"Due to recent GoDaddy update ~ our website and cart system are not
working correctly ~ Please TXT (321) 252-8187 / email [email protected]
~ with your desired item/s and we will create/send an e-invoice to you."

I expect to shoot them a contact / e-mail, but wanted to know if you have some info I might want to know about. If I needed to do that order via e-mail rather than the usual site tools, that would be fine with me.

I'll contemplate those D25C symptoms a bit more.......

Cheers!

EDIT: What (specific) type(s) of cells have you been using in the problematic D25C MK II?

 

[tjswarbrick]

Hey! Someone else who thinks the D25c is just about the perfect EDC light!
Let's see if I can address some of your points.

I like Ti lights, and have a few. Also a couple Copper, which are better on the conductivity side, but much worse for weight. In most cases AL is the most sensible option. Plus, it tends to cost less.

I hesitated to try an SST-20. I love that it's CRI-95, but read that the tint can still go a little green. I prefer mine to lean toward red if they lean anywhere, and I've had great luck with the Nichias. Maybe next time.

That sounds really interesting on the UI update. Perhaps I should pick up a late-model AL D25c, for when I want a very sensible pocket-sized light. (I have a bunch of AAA / 10440 lights. I tend to drop an Energizer Lithium in them, and put them on keychains or leave them around for backup. But for me, they tend to be too small and compromised to be my go-to everyday light. Just as 26650 or 18650 lights are too big for the same purpose. But I always grab a couple when going on a hike, trip, or evening walk.

I didn't try Deoxit on the head, but did use 200-proof denatured alcohol. No change. It is weird!

No water ingress. I learned my lesson. Now I have a dedicated dive light for such things, when needed.

I don't know why IG wouldn't ship to me. I filled everything out, entered payment, and got a warning that there was no valid ship method or some such thing. I see the "Technical Difficulties" splash page now. Wasn't there when I tried to order, but probably the same issue. I kinda figured that since the sale page said "Low Stock" on the 519A D3c, they probably just ran out...

I've only every used CR123A primaries in this problematic D25c. 95% SureFire, the occasional Energizer, and once a Duracell. Only Energizer and SureFire since the problem cropped up.

 

[tjswarbrick]

My first "High Performance" flashlight was (and still is) a LuminTop TD15x. My wife grabbed it for walking the dog last week, and totally unprompted commented on what a nice light it is. I have dozens of lights, but never went back to LuminTop. (And never get positive comments about them from her. Usually it's "Another One??? How much did that Cost? Why???)
Until now.

The FWAA came in!

Size is so close to the D25c it isn't even funny. I really like the hourglass shaped body. I can tell which end is up by feel, and can effect a bit of a cigar hold.

Being Ti, it is a bit heavier than the AL D25c, but still very light overall. Feels a bit more substantial, rather than "heavier", and still disappears in my pocket. Much more so than my RRT01 Raptor or memories of my beloved HDS Clicky.

I'm charging up the Vapcell F12 batteries. I like the current-limiting in case I leave it in a high mode. It's still brighter than I need a floody pocket light to be (Probably on the order of 600 lumens.) And 1250mAh should give a nice long runtime on the lower outputs.

Right after I ordered it, I discovered the FW1AA. AL or Ti for the same price, same emitter (519A and SST-20 options). A little longer. More throw. I think the shorter length and floody beam of the FWAA will suit me better. I'll know more after using it for a few weeks, and bringing it on a trip to Europe next month. Then I'll decide whether it rides in the pocket indefinitely, or if the pocket light of choice gets changed out for an FW1AA, or gets swapped back to a D25c.

 

[tjswarbrick]

 

[tjswarbrick]

View attachment 95911View attachment 95912

 

[tjswarbrick]

 

[tjswarbrick]

Uncalibrated, totally unscientific, estimated “brightness” matched beam comparison in a semi-darkened room;

 

[tjswarbrick]

View attachment 95911

 

[tjswarbrick]

Uploading photos from my phone is killing me.

AL D25c with SureFire CR123a is 48g on the kitchen scale; Ti FWAA with VapCell F12 is 68g. 1.7oz vs 2.4oz.

Since it is stable and works, I turned the D25c on "Hi" (head-tight), then held down the FWAA switch until I thought the brightness looked relatively comparable. Looking at the photo now, I should have held it an instant longer.
Yes, I peeled off the protective film before the beamshot.

After the 30 seconds it took the take that pic, the head on the EagTac was pretty warm to the touch. The LuminTop felt the same as it did when came out of the box. So there's that to be said for seriously under-driving a high-performance emitter (or 3.)

 

[JJZ109]

...Lastly if I may ask, what the situation with IG's shipping to you (or not)? I've done a lot of biz with them and communicated with them a lot as well, and I'm not sure what kind of shipping issue you might be referring to. I ask because I was thinking of ordering something from them this week (another Sportac P60 w/SST-20), so I went to the site and did see this on the front page:

"Due to recent GoDaddy update ~ our website and cart system are not
working correctly ~ Please TXT (321) 252-8187 / email [email protected]
~ with your desired item/s and we will create/send an e-invoice to you."...

My order wasn't accepted and since I accessed the website from www.eagtacusa.com, I bypassed the warning on the front page. Everything went well until it attempted to populate the shipping methods field. Tried again after reading your post, and once I ordered enough to exceed the $80 minimum for free shipping, my order went through. So it's sort of your fault that I have not one, but three 519A 4500K EagTacs on the way Thanks neighbor!

 

[JJZ109]

Went back for two more... Thanks again!

'Moderation is a fatal thing. Nothing succeeds like excess.' ~Oscar Wilde

 

[Schokokeks]

I could only find the 519A at IlluminationGear, and for some reason they can't seem to ship to me.
Stumbled upon the FWAA. Looks pretty amazing for the price. Nearly the same size, with a 14500 battery. I don't really need 3 emitters. I can't foresee a use case for such a bright Turbo mode in a small light with a floody beam. But it looks like it has easily accessible Moonlight along with solid memory. Titanium is a bit heavier than the EagTac, but still pretty light. And much lighter and more compact than an HDS Rotary or my RRT01 Raptor. Leaning that way unless you guys warn me off of it.

Does anybody think a new tail switch will bring the 5 year old D25c MkII back to health? Or should I relegate it to the "backups' bin?

AliExpress item #2255800007167769, with 4500K 519A, and a bunch of other emitters.

Oddly, though, I've ordered from IlluminationGear just fine. They're based in the US, so there should be zero issues.
They often have some neat emitter option, too. I got an SX30A4 from them on sale with the high CRI SST-20 in 4000K.

Alternatively, the D25A with the SFT-40 in 3000K is available at IlluminationGear. I have the D3A with that emitter, and I think it'd be better in the aluminum body (I only run Eneloops, and it gets warm).

 

[JJZ109]

I could only find the 519A at IlluminationGear, and for some reason they can't seem to ship to me.
Stumbled upon the FWAA. Looks pretty amazing for the price. Nearly the same size, with a 14500 battery. I don't really need 3 emitters. I can't foresee a use case for such a bright Turbo mode in a small light with a floody beam. But it looks like it has easily accessible Moonlight along with solid memory. Titanium is a bit heavier than the EagTac, but still pretty light. And much lighter and more compact than an HDS Rotary or my RRT01 Raptor. Leaning that way unless you guys warn me off of it.

Does anybody think a new tail switch will bring the 5 year old D25c MkII back to health? Or should I relegate it to the "backups' bin?

So did you buy the EagTac D3C (Ti) TITANIUM CLICKY NICHIA 519A CRI-93 4500K NEUTRAL from IlluminationGear? Spend at least another $3.10 over and above the cost of the light and FREE Shipping on all US Orders over $80. Only one left and don't make me buy it!

PS: Only $3.99 https://illuminationgear.com/shop/ols/products/eagtac-switch

 

[aznsx]

PS: Only $3.99

Good catch, as that would be a good way to save and get a switch! I now have some in stock for both my Cs and As, as those are tiny microswitches that certainly can't last forever.

As a general FYI side note: As part of the minimum form factor' design of these lights, the actual length of tailcap thread engagement (on the Cs, and probably the As), is so short as to make switch replacement without removing the clip first a very difficult process, and potential for cross-threading is very high. I replaced one without removing the clip, and I will not attempt that again. The clip can also be a bit challenging, as the size wrench for those screws is not quite a 'standard' size.

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[JJZ109]

Good catch, as that would be a good way to save and get a switch! I now have some in stock for both my Cs and As, as those are tiny microswitches that certainly can't last forever.

As a general FYI side note: As part of the minimum form factor' design of these lights, the actual length of tailcap thread engagement (on the Cs, and probably the As), is so short as to make switch replacement without removing the clip first a very difficult process, and potential for cross-threading is very high. I replaced one without removing the clip, and I will not attempt that again. The clip can also be a bit challenging, as the size wrench for those screws is not quite a 'standard' size.

Loading…

www.candlepowerforums.com

I have and endorse the EagleTac 1.55mm wrench. It's not on the IlluminationGear website, but Tod can provide it, along with extra sets of longer screws. Thanks for the switch replacement advice! Ordering several switches...

 

[tjswarbrick]

AliExpress item #2255800007167769, with 4500K 519A, and a bunch of other emitters.

Oddly, though, I've ordered from IlluminationGear just fine. They're based in the US, so there should be zero issues.
They often have some neat emitter option, too. I got an SX30A4 from them on sale with the high CRI SST-20 in 4000K.

Alternatively, the D25A with the SFT-40 in 3000K is available at IlluminationGear. I have the D3A with that emitter, and I think it'd be better in the aluminum body (I only run Eneloops, and it gets warm).

Thanks! I see all the D25 and D3 options on Ali. They didn't come up in my global search, and I never think of that site for flashlights.
Next time...

I think the IlluminationGear problem is a software issue. It doesn't appear to be resolved as yet. The work-around to simply eMail them hadn't been posted when I first tried them.

 

[tjswarbrick]

So did you buy the EagTac D3C (Ti) TITANIUM CLICKY NICHIA 519A CRI-93 4500K NEUTRAL from IlluminationGear? Spend at least another $3.10 over and above the cost of the light and FREE Shipping on all US Orders over $80. Only one left and don't make me buy it!

PS: Only $3.99 https://illuminationgear.com/shop/ols/products/eagtac-switch

It's all yours!
I'm very happy with my FWAA, and don't need another Hi-CRI Titanium EDC light just yet.

 

[Schokokeks]

Thanks! I see all the D25 and D3 options on Ali. They didn't come up in my global search, and I never think of that site for flashlights.
Next time...

I think the IlluminationGear problem is a software issue. It doesn't appear to be resolved as yet. The work-around to simply eMail them hadn't been posted when I first tried them.

Yeah, I think the IG main page says they are having website issues.

Ali has a FEW Chinese company stores on there (Eagtac, Acebeam, Sofirn, Wurkkos), and Simon actually got his start there.