noboneshotdog
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- May 28, 2012
- Messages
- 1,354
Emisar D4
- Thread starter TCY
- Start date
Re: Noctigon Meteor D4
Yes same here, tbh probably the GA would be better suited to keep a little more under control....................who knows, might get 20s run before step down instead of 15s :laughing:
Been messing with the thermal timer, set it myself then tried the max(10+ clicks and hold, after 1st count and when flickers , release switch for max setting). Damn it gets even crazy hotter, especially after step down and double clicked for turbo....................OOOOOUUUUCCCCHHHH!!!!! The body almost got too hot to hold!!! Certainly have to be careful with this beast. The rubber switch was actually hot, as it steps down to maybe 500 ish, the heat takes a while to come under control.
This makes the m43vn seem sensible, the x65vn now takes forever to get hot :laughing: (2 mins)
Yes same here, tbh probably the GA would be better suited to keep a little more under control....................who knows, might get 20s run before step down instead of 15s :laughing:
Been messing with the thermal timer, set it myself then tried the max(10+ clicks and hold, after 1st count and when flickers , release switch for max setting). Damn it gets even crazy hotter, especially after step down and double clicked for turbo....................OOOOOUUUUCCCCHHHH!!!!! The body almost got too hot to hold!!! Certainly have to be careful with this beast. The rubber switch was actually hot, as it steps down to maybe 500 ish, the heat takes a while to come under control.
This makes the m43vn seem sensible, the x65vn now takes forever to get hot :laughing: (2 mins)
Haroldlutsen
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2012
- Messages
- 23
Re: Noctigon Meteor D4
Thanks all for your suggestions much appreciated I'm gonna get me a few of them to try out
Thanks all for your suggestions much appreciated I'm gonna get me a few of them to try out
andreas0401
Newly Enlightened
Re: Noctigon Meteor D4
animated
Andreas
animated
Andreas
noboneshotdog
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- May 28, 2012
- Messages
- 1,354
Re: Noctigon Meteor D4
^^^^^
Wow! Thanks for sharing!
^^^^^
Wow! Thanks for sharing!
Re: Noctigon Meteor D4
Awesome pics Andreas, thanks for sharing:cool:
Awesome pics Andreas, thanks for sharing:cool:
Re: Noctigon Meteor D4
Nice vid:) The olight would be my night time use for tired eyes i think, just easier on the eye with the more (slightly) warmer CT. I presume your 219c is set at the shipped thermal temp 45oC, mine is crazy hot at 30s!!!! But i have altered the temp, still not at the max 70oC. Left my IR temp gun in work, so will check temps next week and see what i get.
Nice vid:) The olight would be my night time use for tired eyes i think, just easier on the eye with the more (slightly) warmer CT. I presume your 219c is set at the shipped thermal temp 45oC, mine is crazy hot at 30s!!!! But i have altered the temp, still not at the max 70oC. Left my IR temp gun in work, so will check temps next week and see what i get.
DogLeg
Newly Enlightened
That Emisar D4 Nichia 219C is one heck of a great $40 handwarmer. Just got mine and I love it.
A beast mjgsxr, just crazy, which we all need a bit of:cool:
noboneshotdog
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- May 28, 2012
- Messages
- 1,354
Bought this clip from Solarforce and a washer from Oveready. Had to dremel out the inside of the opening of the clip to fit over the tailcap threads. I also clipped and spread the washer to fit snuggly in the cap.
After taking the pic I noticed how sharp the ends of the washer looked and smoothed them out with the dremel.
This is the modded 4000K 219c hcri version.
After taking the pic I noticed how sharp the ends of the washer looked and smoothed them out with the dremel.
This is the modded 4000K 219c hcri version.
andreas0401
Newly Enlightened
So I've seen in a few places people say "the D4 has PWM" in the same way one would say "the D4 has a venerial disease." I understand the potential impact if someone has a job inspecting ceiling fans or spinning jet engine blades, and I understand the impact to certain still photography and videography situations, and I know there will be fanboys of other devices. But I was wondering if anyone has actually detected the PWM as implemented on the D4 in a real world situation?
I'm not particularly sensitive to PWM myself, and my ears are certainly too old to detect faint 16 kHz whines, so I'm really asking a genuine question. Even at 1.4 lumens, I can't see it, but I'm curious to know what others see.
I'm not particularly sensitive to PWM myself, and my ears are certainly too old to detect faint 16 kHz whines, so I'm really asking a genuine question. Even at 1.4 lumens, I can't see it, but I'm curious to know what others see.
I'm very sensitive to PWM and hate the strobe effect when moving a PWM light but the D4 is not at all a problem. If you really want, you cant see it but in real life usage, it's really not detectable.
eraursls1984
Flashlight Enthusiast
It's regulated to about 160 lumens, then it's PWM. I'd love it f it were regulated to about 500-600 lumens.
No, it's PWM in all modes except for 350 mA (this is what you get when you remove power and start it) and turbo. It is regulated to about 160 lumens, but PWM is there.
Fireclaw18
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2011
- Messages
- 2,413
Yup. But the PWM is very high frequency and isn't detectable to the naked eye.
Compared to current control, High frequency PWM has the following differences:
* Better tint with less tint shift. Many LEDs tend to produce better tints when run at full power. With current control at low power they sometimes start to look green. Lights that use PWM maintain the same tint at all brightness settings and even at lower power settings the tint still looks good.
* The D4 has a single 7135 regulator chip for low modes and a FET for higher modes. As such, there might be tint shift when switching from the 7135 to the FET (happens around 130-160 lumens depending on LED choice). Below that setting all outputs will have one tint. Above that setting all outputs a slightly different tint.
* LEDs are more efficient when run at low power. Lights with current-control drivers are more efficient when run at less than maximum power. A light with a current-control driver such as a Zebralight, should have a longer runtime at the same lumens on pretty much every setting except the point where the 7135 chip is running at max (130-160 lumens). When run at max power, LED has the same efficiency regardless of which driver is used. However, because the D4 pulls far more amps than any Zebralight, it will have lower runtimes.
From the human-eye perspective there's no switching from 7135 to FET. 7135 is used in all modes except turbo, but as you ramp the light uses FET more and more. This means that tint shift is gradual. Personally, I can't see it and haven't seen a mention of a person who does.
Fireclaw18
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2011
- Messages
- 2,413
That makes sense. And come to think of it I can't see the tint shift either since it is gradual.
