Emisar D4

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Me to Mike, one will be used in work, other at home......................easy to justify. For you retired, not so easy:p Maybe a different colour and save the 90 cri for weekend............deal done;)
Thank you for the excuse, I mean, justification ven! LOL
 
Also, some of the FET drivers at Mountain Electronics have an optional firmware by Toykeeper called Crescendo, it's a ramping UI that she designed for Clickys...
 
Exactly. I've paid for lots of flashlights that cost more than $40. This is an absolute deal. I'll definitely pick up a few more. That cyan is definitely calling me. Just waiting for Mtn Electronics to get them in stock.

Due to this thread, and ven's comparison pics, I ordered a D1 in neutral, which arrived yesterday.
I'm really impressed with the UI, and everything else about the light. I was hoping for an even tighter beam and hotspot, and an even lower low, but I was getting carried away with expectations.
I think it's Amazing for the price and size, quality, and UI.
Definitely getting a D4 next.
 
Exactly. I've paid for lots of flashlights that cost more than $40. This is an absolute deal. I'll definitely pick up a few more. That cyan is definitely calling me. Just waiting for Mtn Electronics to get them in stock.
I think the Cyan makes it in a way "less tactical" looking. For the gray man. ;)
 
Also, some of the FET drivers at Mountain Electronics have an optional firmware by Toykeeper called Crescendo, it's a ramping UI that she designed for Clickys...

MTN has added NarsilM to all of his drivers that support electronic switches so you can mod your own lights with it. My Convoy L6 has the same firmware now.:devil:
 
LOL. Add a little color in your life. :D

IMG_5931_zpsrttnuv8x.jpg


I think the Cyan makes it in a way "less tactical" looking. For the gray man. ;)
 
MTN has added NarsilM to all of his drivers that support electronic switches so you can mod your own lights with it. My Convoy L6 has the same firmware now.:devil:

[HEAD EXPLODING EMOJI]
 
It sounds like there is no clear timeline for a possible UI v3 with the changes Toykeeper has discussed over on BLF.
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1195897#comment-1195897

I guess that means I should stop waiting and order mine.

Since I'd like to try the changes she said she's made to her own, unofficial v3, does anybody know what is involved in flashing the firmware. It sounds to me like this is an ATtiny-based driver, so I should be able to follow the guides that exist for that controller. Does anybody here happen to know?
 
It sounds like there is no clear timeline for a possible UI v3 with the changes Toykeeper has discussed over on BLF.
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1195897#comment-1195897

I guess that means I should stop waiting and order mine.

Since I'd like to try the changes she said she's made to her own, unofficial v3, does anybody know what is involved in flashing the firmware. It sounds to me like this is an ATtiny-based driver, so I should be able to follow the guides that exist for that controller. Does anybody here happen to know?

Ask her and check the links in the bottom of her posts. They talk a lot about Attiny85. I would love to try her new stuff, I just haven't the time.
 
Ask her and check the links in the bottom of her posts. They talk a lot about Attiny85. I would love to try her new stuff, I just haven't the time.

Yeah, I know. It's not like I don't know where to find someone of authority.

I'm trying to avoid joining another forum to suck up my attention when I should be doing other things, so I thought I'd ask here as a start.
 
I read through the thread far enough to see that for now you have to disassemble the light, free the driver, and from there it might be as simple as clipping to leads and connecting through some kind of adapter to a computer... and then there might be some command line stuff involved... or not.
But it's minor surgery at the least.

TK was saying that there are possibilities of future designs where "acupuncture style" needles could be used to re flash the driver without major disassembly, but that that was somewhere between a pipe dream and not happening. Sounds great to me, let good solder joints and thermal bonds be.
 
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Little test today, 3 lots of 100%, so after a few step downs, double click to 100% and repeat. All kept under control, temp reading of.........
6qInTO2.jpg


Cell temp
YT5ANMk.jpg


Hot hot hot!!!! Did not push it any more as no real point, this was turbo run, two step ups .
 
Good to know that temperature data. I'm using VTC5A based on HKJ's data showing it doesn't create much internal heat.

IIRC Mike, this is around 1st run/step down outside temp(set to 65oC on the driver)

hnRcNRV.jpg


Bare in mind its pretty fast and the temp still rises as it steps down several times)

Its home for now in tool bag
oAcQgKt.jpg
 
Please note that the internal temperature sensor is not calibrated. So it's better to think about it being set to 65 units, with unit being specific to that individual light sample.
 
My heat detection device is my had around the flashlight head. When I can't hold it any longer, I cry "uncle" and switch it off.
BTW, I hate metal off switches. They leave a blister! LOL
 
iamluck13,
about settings the maximum level for the purposes of conserving battery, what I've done with this D1 is enter thermal config mode and end the config almost immediately, as soon as I noticed a modest amount of heat.
In warm weather at least, this should work out well for limiting the max level during continuous operation where I overlook ramping it down, while still giving me full power for short blasts, which is about all the duration that I foresee wanting that much power for in such a small light.

Also, while I need a second identical light to compare, I'm almost thinking that the thermal protection is working Better on this low setting, kind of like "a stitch in time, saves nine" maybe?
Seems plenty bright, and not getting very hot, maybe by stepping down a little bit, and very early, the need for larger step down is being avoided?

D4 with extra18350 tube and batteries are in the mail.
 
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