First Impressions Dual Channel Copper D3AA

[jon_slider]

Just received my new Dual Channel Copper Emisar D3AA with 2x NTG35 2700K and 1x 660nm Red.. It is very nice!

Here are a few pics and observations..

Here is Flicker Index at step 5 of 7 = 180 lm:

The light arrives with the Aux set to rotating colors at High Brightness (not flashing disco).. makes a fun first impression. It is in Advanced UI, Smooth ramping, and starts out with both channels On in channel 4. The first 5 channels are enabled.

The lowest mode in Channel 1, the two White LEDs is 0.5 lm. Stepped mode level 5 of 7 is 180 lumens

Channel 2, the single Red LED has a lowest mode of 0.05 lm. Stepped mode level 5 of 7 is 28 lumens

After a factory reset the Aux change to Low Brightness, and the light is in Simple UI, Smooth Ramping. Simple UI has 5 stepped modes, Advanced UI has 7 stepped modes.

There is NoPWM at any output.. and the Flicker Index and Lux Riple are extremely low. Im very happy with these features of the Linear Driver.

There is a slight preflash of white, when the light is turned on at low output in channel 5, but not in channel 1 or 2. The preflash is eliminated by disabling Smooth Steps.

The magnet can barely hold the light sideways.. but that does not surprise me, considering the weight of Copper.

btw, the Red LED produces a Square beam.. Im not too bothered by it, I dont expect perfection from the shared Optic.. still really happy with this light ;-)

Im entertained by the RGB LEDs, including in the button, when Aux are on High Brightness.. I can barely see the Low Brightness Aux, they are Much Dimmer than on my single channel D3AA. Thats OK since I sometimes just turn Aux Off anyway.

The metal button cover looks and feels nice. Im happily surprised to learn the light Does have Physical Lockout at the tailcap.

Firmware is 0135-2023-10-31

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changes Im making to defaults after Factory Reset

1. go back to Advanced
2. set batt check blinks to use Red Aux
3. change Aux to Red
4. disable Turbo
5. disable channel 3 and 4
6. disable POVD
7. disable smooth steps to get rid of the preflash on the mixing channels
8. change channel 5 (auto channel mixing) to lead with Red from Low and add white as output increases
9. Lowered Ceiling to 100/150 = 265 lm in the white channel 1.
10. Lowered floors to 5/150 which gives 0.2 lm white, and 0.02 lm Red. The Flicker Index reports No Risk.

My options:

USB-C 14500 is my favorite battery (turbo off):

 

[jon_slider]

Here are some output tables for the 7 default steps, with ceilings and floors I use for this Dual Channel D3AA and 3 other lights I tested for comparison:

Notice each model of light has different outputs, ending at a different maximum even though they are all set to the same ceiling (50 clics = ceiling 101/150). Part of the difference is that the firmware for the D3AA uses a different internal output map than the KR1AA.

There are also output differences due to different LEDs. There is also a difference between the output map of the Single Channel D3AA driver, and the Dual Channel D3AA driver.

 

[Schokokeks]

Because of the shared optic, would ANYTHING have a square beam, or it is the particular red LED (it's the SST-20 DR, right?)?

I have a KC1 in that 2700K emitter, and I really like that one (it's a tough call between that and the 4200K for the favorite).

Tell me more about the metal button. I avoided it on my D3AA, and went with rubber, which I find feels great. I've heard the metal ones can be a bit wobbly, but I'm guessing with the compact size, it's not as much of an issue on the AA sized lights.

And this does NOT have the Freeman circuit, right?

 

[jon_slider]

would ANYTHING have a square beam

not sure, it may be partly due to the extra small size of the SST-20.. in combination with the relatively clear optic. bear in mind the square beam is only obvious at extreme close range, like 4" from a wall.. otherwise the beam is not square..

Tell me more about the metal button.

The metal button is flush and therefore could be more likely to turn on accidentally.. I chose the metal button this time because it matches the copper host.. Im enjoying it and it has not turned on in my pocket. So Im happy with it.

The rubber button is recessed and immune to accidental activation. It is very similar to a Zebra button..

this does NOT have the Freeman circuit, right?

true
The Dual Channel light uses a Linear driver. They only work on LiIon, not AA compatible.

 

[Schokokeks]

not sure, it may be partly due to the extra small size of the SST-20.. in combination with the relatively clear optic. beam in mind the square beam is only obvious at extreme close range, like 4" from a wall.. otherwise the beam is not square..


The metal button is flush and therefore could be more likely to turn on accidentally.. I chose the metal button this time because it matches the copper host.. Im enjoying it and it has not turned on in my pocket. So Im happy with it.

The rubber button is recessed and immune to accidental activation. It is very similar to a Zebra button..


true
The Dual Channel light uses a Linear driver. They only work on LiIon, not AA compatible.

Oh, okay, if it's just a square artifact up close, that's not so bad.

The metal button sure DOES look good ;)
That was kind of why I had considered it.

And dang, no AA support? Welp, that's off my list, haha.

 

[jon_slider]

no AA support? Welp, that's off my list

Your reluctance to use LiIon protects your wallet ..
but youre missing out on some nice Dual Channel opportunities.. ;-)

 

[Schokokeks]

I'll carry two AA lights instead ;) Hahahaha