Foursevens Mini Mark II

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I love that these limited edition versions now have the neutral XM-L2 U3 in them, but hate that it cannot be had in the black aluminum...

Thanks, jag-engr, I finally understand what wacbzz was talking about, now that you posted that link to the Ti version of the new Mini Mk II.

And I exactly agree with wacbzz: I want this thing in neutral, with Al.

Look: this thing is a pocket-rocket that has heat-management problems. Ti only exacerbates those, a lot. Ti is such a lousy conductor that all of the heat sits right in the head where it is generated. Al lets the heat go throughout the body, and then into your hand.

So this seems like a real confusion about design. I love the neutral! Can't stand the Ti.
 
...Look this thing is a pocket-rocket that has heat-management problems. Ti only exacerbates those, a lot. Ti is such a lousy conductor that all of the heat sits right in the head where it is generated. Al lets the heat go throughout the body, and then into your hand.

So this seems like a real confusion about design. I love the neutral! Can't stand the Ti.
Why not get even better heat sinking with Cu then?
 
Hey, thanks for the information! Reversing the polarity worked. It is now charging again. Now the remaining issue I have is that the protection circuit of the battery is tripped often it seems.. Is this normal for the battery? or should I be contacting foursevens about replacing it? Isn't a battery pretty useless if the protection circuit is tripping all the time, rendering the light powerless? Also, is there any chance it is the problem with the light itself that is causing this?
I would run a simple test. Put the flashlight in "medium" mode with a freshly charged battery. If it trips the protection circuit much faster than 60 minutes I'd hit up foursevens for a replacement battery (yours is defective). It's unlikely (but possible) the light has a flaw but I'm guessing you might just have a bad battery. Best of luck.
 

Where are you folks finding these links to great new lights?

I go to the 4/7s website, and I cannot find them under the menus. And I am on their mailing-list, but they have not sent me links to them.

So now they have the Mini Mk II in Al, regular Ti, and DHT Ti. Copper, too, or is that just an idea to consider?

ETA: duh...it's a drop-down menu of finishes. Okay: now I get it!

Yes, copper in two colors, as well as TI in two colors.
 
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Any word on what the color temp / tint of the "neutral white LED" might be? 5K perhaps?
 
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Al and bead-blasted Ti en route...

Okay, now I'm deleting this site from my "favorites" list; too much money's been blown in the past couple of weeks thanks to the S1R Baton, S Mini (Rainbow PVD and Going Gear Brass LE), and now the Mk II.

Ugh.

Regards,
Adam
 
I know some have been clamoring for this - in my email today -
4SevensMiniMkII_Limited.jpg


4SevensMiniMkII_Limited2.jpg


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RUSH REVIEW - 4Sevens Mini Mk II (1020 lumens)



of the regular black aluminum version
 
I'm really tempted by the new titanium Mini with a neutral tint LED: http://www.foursevens.com/products/ML-IIC-FF

It checks a lot of boxes for me, but I'm a little concerned about titanium-on-titanium threads. I've never had a good experience with titanium twisties.

That Ti looks pretty nice to me as well with a neutral LED but I have the same concerns. Would rather have aluminum in a twisty but I may take a look at one of the heavier copper models I just don't trust the Ti in a twisty.
 
I looked but couldn't see if this has been brought up. Has foursevens dropped the specs on the 1020 output to 980 now?
I noticed this change for the combo pack in the last few days and the colored versions as well.
 
The higher CCT (cool) version is still 1020 lumens. The ones with the newer finishes are lower CCT (neutral) and have a correspondingly lower output of 980 lumens.
 
Look: this thing is a pocket-rocket that has heat-management problems. Ti only exacerbates those, a lot. Ti is such a lousy conductor that all of the heat sits right in the head where it is generated. Al lets the heat go throughout the body, and then into your hand.

That Ti looks pretty nice to me as well with a neutral LED but I have the same concerns. Would rather have aluminum in a twisty but I may take a look at one of the heavier copper models I just don't trust the Ti in a twisty.

I've personally never been a big fan of copper lights because of the smell and the weight, but they do dissipate heat better than aluminum. The Autumn PVD coating looks really nice and at least negates the smell issue. To my knowledge, copper threads hold up pretty well - not as well as brass, but better than titanium. The Autumn PVD Copper is still chunky (a fully 0.52 oz heavier than titanium), but it may be a good trade-off.
 
I've personally never been a big fan of copper lights because of the smell and the weight, but they do dissipate heat better than aluminum. The Autumn PVD coating looks really nice and at least negates the smell issue. To my knowledge, copper threads hold up pretty well - not as well as brass, but better than titanium. The Autumn PVD Copper is still chunky (a fully 0.52 oz heavier than titanium), but it may be a good trade-off.

I suspect that the PVD coating will also have been applied to the threads i.e. the whole unit will have been treated after the threads were cut. That may make the copper threads a bit harder and more brass-like on the Autumn Copper version.

Tempting...except that I don't need another light!
 
To my knowledge, copper threads hold up pretty well - not as well as brass, but better than titanium.
Titanium threads dont hold up well? The only issue I've ever heard of with titanium threads is galling. I don't have a ton of experience with copper threads, but so far they don't seem to hold up near as well as my titanium lights.
 
I've personally never been a big fan of copper lights because of the smell and the weight, but they do dissipate heat better than aluminum. The Autumn PVD coating looks really nice and at least negates the smell issue. To my knowledge, copper threads hold up pretty well - not as well as brass, but better than titanium. The Autumn PVD Copper is still chunky (a fully 0.52 oz heavier than titanium), but it may be a good trade-off.

I suspect that the PVD coating will also have been applied to the threads i.e. the whole unit will have been treated after the threads were cut. That may make the copper threads a bit harder and more brass-like on the Autumn Copper version.

Tempting...except that I don't need another light!

My thought process kind of runs along these lines. I am not that interested in copper either but I do like the look of brass and the Autumn Copper has a similar appearance.

Hate to pass up a chance to get a neutral 4Sevens light but I have no need for another light either though so I will have to think it over.
 
I suspect that the PVD coating will also have been applied to the threads i.e. the whole unit will have been treated after the threads were cut. That may make the copper threads a bit harder and more brass-like on the Autumn Copper version.
I have no experience with PVD on threads, but I would guess that it is similar to anodization on threads, which generally helps a lot.

Tempting...except that I don't need another light!
Hate to pass up a chance to get a neutral 4Sevens light but I have no need for another light either though so I will have to think it over.
Alright, you two - it's time to turn in your CPF membership cards. :poke:
 
Titanium threads dont hold up well? The only issue I've ever heard of with titanium threads is galling.
That's the problem we are all talking about. Not a huge deal for titanium clickies, but for a twist light, titanium threads tend to bind from galling. I had to return my first generation titanium 4Sevens AA Mini because it galled terribly.

I don't have a ton of experience with copper threads, but so far they don't seem to hold up near as well as my titanium lights.
What failure mechanism have you observed in your copper lights? galling? cross-threading? oxidation?
 
What failure mechanism have you observed in your copper lights? galling? cross-threading? oxidation?

I'm interested in this also. There's a lot of discussion of copper lights these days, and I haven't seen many people complaining about any issues. The Mark II Mini is the first light I will own in copper.
 
That's the problem we are all talking about. Not a huge deal for titanium clickies, but for a twist light, titanium threads tend to bind from galling. I had to return my first generation titanium 4Sevens AA Mini because it galled terribly.


What failure mechanism have you observed in your copper lights? galling? cross-threading? oxidation?
There is no failure. I just noticed that the head is looser on the Cu light after changing the battery a handful of times. I have no idea if this will become an issue, but my Ti twisty lights did not show this slight wear even after hundreds of twists.
 

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