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Many consider the HDS Osram GD a longer throw emitter due to the small LED size. I don’t think it was Hi CRI though.Out of curiosity, has HDS ever offered a "longer-throw" emitter option like the NLT325 that was also High CRI?
NLT 325 will have less flood. Color temp is the same on both. So if you don’t like a lot of flood, the SDR50 is not likely a good choice for you.Hey - so I'm building out a custom light and I'm having trouble deciding between the NLT 325 and the HiCRI SDR50.
What I don't like is a lot of flood. Can anyone who's owned either of these two emitters comment on this? I already own the standard issue rotary, and I want a warmer light - but might also enjoy the extra throw.
Would you do me a favour and shine the lights at something 1-2 meters away at - lower level? I’m mostly interested in seeing how useful the hotspot is at closer range and if it’s worth getting the NLT as well as the SDR50.
This is great! Thanks for these pictures.I recently bought two HDS lights with NLT325 and a SDR50 emitters. I'll echo what those above me said. The difference in is dramatic. Color temp was similar; both were lovely. But the NLT's beam is really tight compared to the SDR50. On average I can comfortably run it two or three levels lower than the SDR50 because the lux is higher. With the NLT, the experience is like painting with light, and the beam is "cast." The SDR50's beam is much more vague and diffuse. I prefer the former; many prefer the latter. I'm keeping the NLT and selling the SDR50!
Here are some beamshots from about 15 meters. Both lights were set to level 21. I know the output isn't identical, but it's fairly close. As always the difference is far more dramatic in person.
View attachment 31856
SDR50
View attachment 31857
NLT325
Sure thing. To my eyes the spill is the same between the NLT and SDR50. It's the size of the hotspot and the nature of the transition that differs. I'll take photos tonight.Would you do me a favour and shine the lights at something 1-2 meters away at - lower level?
I'm new to HDS but both my battery compartments have a raised button and I'll probably never buy a flush...Now the next question is...button top or flush top with the 18650 battery compartment.
This is great! Thanks for these pictures.
Now the next question is...button top or flush top with the 18650 battery compartment. Like I said, I have the flush top with the 123 compartment. So wondering if I should change it up or keep with what I have.
I find it hard to really see the difference in that from looking at other pictures, i’ve been kinda bitten by too bright hotspot at close ranges, i’d much rather have a direct comparison than get something i won’t use again. The reason i got a D4V2 with W1 and 219BT-V1, is exactly that, long-range high throw and then a nice and warm flood for closer ranges.Says the beam pattern of the NLT325 is same as the standard 250 offering...just more lumens.
So I'll go out on a limb and say there's plenty of usable spill.
Thank you very much, it’s much appreciated.Sure thing. To my eyes the spill is the same between the NLT and SDR50. It's the size of the hotspot and the nature of the transition that differs. I'll take photos tonight.
I'm new to HDS but both my battery compartments have a raised button and I'll probably never buy a flush...
I have one flat and 3 raised button lights. As for looks, it’s the opposite for me, the raised button looks better and the flat button looks odd.I have both, but neither in 18650 size. That said there’s two practical differences:
1. You *can* tailstand with flush, you cannot with raised.
2. Raised is *much* easier/faster to operate when you need to get the light on, and also with gloves on.
I like the flush better, just because it looks better to my eye. Otherwise I am happy with both.