HDS Systems EDC # 19

Candle Power Forums

Help Support Candle Power:

Status
Not open for further replies.
I'd rather be the first with a new HDS but I will settle for being the first to post here!

BTW We were talking about mice not wearing out (like HDS clickies). Anybody remember when mice had balls? They used to wear out.
 
recDNA said:
I'd rather be the first with a new HDS but I will settle for being the first to post here!

BTW We were talking about mice not wearing out (like HDS clickies). Anybody remember when mice had balls? They used to wear out.
Click to expand...

My mouse balls always got full of lint.
 
I'll maybe never order an HDS (too much $ for a musician haha) but I am curious about headlamp news and followed the last thread for kicks.
If I did have one I'd bore it for 18350 .. Probably put a Warmish XPL HI in it.
Rotary....maybe tactical or not.
Anyways, cheers to the new thread!
 
psychbeat said:
I'll maybe never order an HDS (too much $ for a musician haha)...
Click to expand...
Not true! There's a lot more of us here than you might think! Just buy a used one instead of one of your new pedals! Really nice to be able to see things onstage where the lights are making shadows that need some lumens to cut through.
 
kaichu dento said:
Not true! There's a lot more of us here than you might think! Just buy a used one instead of one of your new pedals! Really nice to be able to see things onstage where the lights are making shadows that need some lumens to cut through.
Click to expand...

Hah! Got me ... I've spent more on tubes, speakers and stuff than an HDS but Id probably want to figure out a way to put a FET driver or have the rotary go to direct drive on max or some other thing that would sort of miss the point :)
Always dug these lights aesthetically - especially the desert kerakote in the last thread.

I also have an H600w MKII in my pedals/cords bag and usually a quad XPL dropin by Vinh in my van just in case I need to make my own light show & bum my bandmates out ;)
 
Last edited:
Just to be present in the first page:grin2:

Love my Rotary 18670 Nichia 215, my always bedside light!
 
Since this thread is already all sorts of off-topic, I'll go ahead and ask my question :)

Why do we start new threads? What's wrong with the old one? As I understand it the forum software used to require it because there was a maximum post count for threads, but that's been gone for a while now and no longer an issue. Or am I wrong?


And just to keep it kinda relevant, here's links to some of the most important stuff from the last thread:

Hogo's great instructional videos

SOYCD's Rotary disassembly walkthru
 
Last edited:
emarkd said:
Why do we start new threads? What's wrong with the old one? As I understand it the forum software used to require it because there was a maximum post count for threads, but that's been gone for a while now and no longer an issue. Or am I wrong?
Click to expand...

If nothing else, at 209 pages (!), HDS #18 was probably a bit daunting to new readers. Maybe this'll help keep things fresh with up-to-date info.
 
Stoneking said:
I am using CRC Technician Grade Di-Electric Grease.
Click to expand...

I know the manual says to use non-conductive grease, but I'm not sure of the reasoning behind that. I would think as long as it isn't gooped on so that it's bridging contacts, conductive grease would be desirable.

v9wYRPl.png
 
PrinceValorum said:
I know the manual says to use non-conductive grease, but I'm not sure of the reasoning behind that. I would think as long as it isn't gooped on so that it's bridging contacts, conductive grease would be desirable.

v9wYRPl.png
Click to expand...

I know the grease I'm using is correct. In the picture I posted it shows grease on the green part (sorry, I have no idea what that's called), should I be doing this as well?
 
Stoneking said:
I know the grease I'm using is correct. In the picture I posted it shows grease on the green part (sorry, I have no idea what that's called), should I be doing this as well?
Click to expand...

The green part of the PCB isn't (under normal operation anyway) making contact with anything, so it won't hurt anything, maybe just collect extra dust over time as you open the head changing batteries. The ring around the outside edge of the PCB is what the tail switch wire makes contact with, so I would think that would be a lubrication point.
 
Sometimes shorter threads help narrow down searches. If someone says oh that info was in # 18, but 18 is 6200 posts, it can be a pain to hunt it down vs. if it's 1000 posts. Fewer posts makes things a bit easier to find. I think... Anyways, no real rule anymore, but that last one was a monster.
 
Anyone know where the pictures of some super abused HDS are located in #18. I think in the 50s pages. I saw last week but couldn't find it again =\
 
calipsoii said:
If nothing else, at 209 pages (!), HDS #18 was probably a bit daunting to new readers. Maybe this'll help keep things fresh with up-to-date info.
Click to expand...
It was a bit daunting, but I did manage to read them all while waiting for my HDS in the last canceled manufacturing change.
 
PrinceValorum said:
The green part of the PCB isn't (under normal operation anyway) making contact with anything, so it won't hurt anything, maybe just collect extra dust over time as you open the head changing batteries. The ring around the outside edge of the PCB is what the tail switch wire makes contact with, so I would think that would be a lubrication point.
Click to expand...

Awesome, thank you! I appreciate the response.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Back
Top