HDS Systems EDC # 19

[AndrwTNT]

Yes, you can swap out for another clicky battery tube. You could also send in your clicky head and have it reprogrammed as a rotary. You would need a new rotary battery tube for it.

Alright, thanks. I just need to decide what would be the most cost effective way to do it. I mean, you can't have too many HDS lights so maybe I'll just order an 18650 hicri rotary with a flood reflector… :popcorn:

 

[FroggyTaco]

Ah okay thank you for that. I figured it sounded a little too good to be true or at least too easy lol.

But the theory does apply for just a battery tube, correct? i.e.; I can buy an 18650 battery tube for my clicky using the same head and tail cap?

Think of it this way:

The clicky is a Ford & you can only use Ford parts with it. All current "Ford" parts are interchangeable.

The rotary is a Chevy & you can only us Chevy parts with it. All current "Chevy" parts are interchangeable.

 

[ForrestChump]

I sort of have gotten the impression over the years that Henry tries to do almost everything himself so I think that's why stock and communication are lagging. Good for profit but not always the best way to do business. However I know he had a bad experience with Novatac so maybe solo is the only way it works for him. Unfortunately that drives some of us flashaholics nuts :hairpull:

See signature. ;)

Henry is simply mad and is the most obsessive flashaholic I have ever met. He simply refuses putting out anything sub par and in the past has simply rejected large orders from less than perfect vendors.

Selling my Green HDS 325 was the single worst decision of my flashaholic career. I never recovered. :drunk:

 

[ForrestChump]

PS -

For those who are looking for a good deal... Check out Thors Custom Leather... It appears he has a some new/old stock and I *think* he gives a discount on holsters.

 

[F89]

PS -

For those who are looking for a good deal... Check out Thors Custom Leather... It appears he has a some new/old stock and I *think* he gives a discount on holsters.

He has the 200 clicky (XPG?) For $179.
I got my last HDS, an orange cerakote with sterile bezel 200 XPG clicky NOS for $160. Now that's a bargain. No printing on the bezel, ACME threads and perfectly cerakoted.

 

[Taxman]

He has the 200 clicky (XPG?) For $179.
I got my last HDS, an orange cerakote with sterile bezel 200 XPG clicky NOS for $160. Now that's a bargain. No printing on the bezel, ACME threads and perfectly cerakoted.

I was looking to get my first HDS, would that E1S-200 he has for sale be a good start?

 

[F89]

I was looking to get my first HDS, would that E1S-200 he has for sale be a good start?

If you don't mind cool white, yes.
I modded the above mentioned light to a Nichia 219B which is a bit of an effort with basic soldering gear and not being an electrician.
Personally I'd go for the 200 HiCRI out of HDS's current offerings but it'll cost more, that or have the cheap 200 modded.

 

[nbp]

Received my newest HDS today, and orange cerakote Rotary hi cri 200. It was a good price as it was a "blemished" model... well Henry must be pretty fussy because I can't find the blemishes. But it is a sweet sweet light. I think this is my 10th HDS. Only took two weeks from ordering to receiving it in the mail. :rock:

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

Henry must be pretty fussy...

My favorite Henry story is about the time an HDS Rotary fell off a guy's belt while he was cruising down the highway on a motorcycle. The light still powered on even after hitting the pavement at 65MPH, but the rotary action had a tendency to skip levels instead of smoothly ramping up and down. Most manufacturers would have been thrilled with such a result; Henry, on the other hand, immediately set about trying to design a more robust rotary mechanism. :laughing:

 

[liteboy]

My favorite Henry story is about the time an HDS Rotary fell off a guy's belt while he was cruising down the highway on a motorcycle. The light still powered on even after hitting the pavement at 65MPH, but the rotary action had a tendency to skip levels instead of smoothly ramping up and down. Most manufacturers would have been thrilled with such a result; Henry, on the other hand, immediately set about trying to design a more robust rotary mechanism. :laughing:

Did he succeed? Not that I'm planning on throwing mine out of a speeding cars window!

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

Did he succeed? Not that I'm planning on throwing mine out of a speeding cars window!

I'm not sure. I know he worked on it for a while, but I don't know if any design changes were ever put into production.

 

[doctordun]

Was looking at the HDS website and saw there is a way to upgrade the UI.
Is there a list of the progression of UI's?
I have a HCRI 120 clicky that is several years old and a 170 clicky that is about 2 years old and has the "candle" mode.
I just got a new Rotary in the last month.
Just wondering if upgrading the UI would be a good thing and what the latest clicky UI has that I don't?

 

[doctordun]

Best place to get AW 18650 3400mAh protected batteries?
Would like some spares for my new HDS Rotary.

 

[nbp]

http://rtdelectronix.com/brands/AW.html

Friends of CPF and great service.

 

[slumber]

Was looking at the HDS website and saw there is a way to upgrade the UI.
Is there a list of the progression of UI's?
I have a HCRI 120 clicky that is several years old and a 170 clicky that is about 2 years old and has the "candle" mode.
I just got a new Rotary in the last month.
Just wondering if upgrading the UI would be a good thing and what the latest clicky UI has that I don't?

I doubt it's worth upgrading, unless you have a Clicky without candle mode and you really want it.
I believe the first version with candle mode lowered the lowest output a little. This version also added the ability to turn on and off the locator beacon with four clicks from off.
A version later, the pure tactical hex click mode was added (six clicks from off for pure momentary output). The four click locator beacon required activation through the setup menu before use in this version.
In all I think there have been three versions with candle mode that I can remember. The first was 5 clicks from off, then 7 and I think the latest version is 9 clicks from off.
I hope at some point we see the return of the 3 click lockout. I hate untwisting the battery tube before pocket carry.

 

[Strintguy]

Hi, just looking for some advice and/or someone to enable my addiction! I recently picked up a Rotary 170N in mint condition. I am contemplating getting it modded to a high CRI? Can anybody say whether it will make any noticeable difference?
thanks

 

[ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond]

The 170N is a Nichia 219B HiCRI LED already. Any mod would likely lessen the CRI level.

 

[Strintguy]

It's only listed in the low 80's for CRI

 

[nbp]

What would you replace it with? Do you not like the tint? I really like the tint of Henry's Nichia selection. I wouldn't be inclined to swap it.

 

[F89]

It's only listed in the low 80's for CRI

According to Henry it's about 88 CRI.
I have both the 170N and 200 Hi CRI and honestly I prefer the 170N even though I'm a High CRI fan.
Personally I wouldn't mess with a perfectly good 170N. I did however recently mod a 200 XPG cool white to a 219B which came out pretty well like a 170N tint wise which was a very worthwhile change.
It's a bit of a pain removing the LED PCB on a HDS so I wouldn't bother unless it's really worthwhile as the (de)soldering is pretty fiddly. I did manage to remove, reflow and refit the original PCB though.
The CRI difference between the 170N and 200 Hi CRI is there but the 170 does a very good job already and the 170 has the more pleasing tint for me and for some reason throws a bit better even though mine are all the same OP reflectors (not exactly the same as the 200 HiCRI has the newer OP reflector that sits closer to the LED PCB which may make the difference).
Out of my three white light HDS's my 170N and modded 219B cerakote are my favourite with the 200 HiCRI being third.