My Air Compressor Upgrade

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Very nice setup you have there Will :)
And all the work that is put behind it, looks very professional.

Im green with envy...and that box full of Titanium.....Yum :D
 
I called up US General when my compressor had some oil leaking from one of the fittings and he said if they got hot they might do this. He also said they DO NOT recommend running synthetic oil which is what I installed when I changed the oil.

On another note the brass NPT tubing I had coming out of the tank broke after a few months so I changed it to steel.

Mac

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said they DO NOT recommend running synthetic oil which is what I installed when I changed the oil.
All the high end rotary screw manufacturers as well as those that make industrial reciprocating compressors recommend synthetics. Many will double the warranty after a rebuild IF a specified synthetic is used. For recips a popular oil is Mobil Rarus 800: http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENINDMOMobil_Rarus_800.aspx

One issue that may arise with synthetics is that they will sometimes seep through an imperfect gasket seal, causing a warranty problem for the manufacturer. Not the oils fault that the manufacturer needs to do a better job machining & fitting their parts together :)

A second concern is that synthetic oils will degrade both PVC air lines & the clear Lexan (polycarbonate) bowls used in filters & regulators. Lexan bowls are acceptable with synthetics as long as the bowls are metal caged.

Your compressor will run cooler & last longer with synthetic oils.
 
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I called up US General

Just curious, is it HF that you talked to or ABAC/American IMC (manufacturer of these compressors)? As far as I know US General is a HF name brand. I assume it was the 866 number you called that is on the the compressor? My buddy had some issues with his compressor & when he called the 866 number he said they were not very helpful & didn't sound very knowledgeable at all. I wonder who the people are for that 866 number?

One issue that may arise with synthetics is that they will sometimes seep through an imperfect gasket seal.

Agreed, sythetic oils are known to be "slick". Generally it's not recommended to use synthetics in a "new" engine. I never used snythetic oil in any of the engine builds I have done for customer's. Only recommended switching to synthetic after the engine has been properly broken in. In some cases that could be as much (or more) than 20K mi before there are no more signs of blow by & burning oil is not out of the ordinary if it wasn't fully broken in. But this of course were automotive applications.

My buddy picked up the same exact compressor as me just after I got mine, also used. But he wasn't so lucky with his, his was newer than mine. He had a leak between the valve body & later found out it was due to a missing copper seal in between the valve bodies. Even with a head rebuild kit, there were still leaks from in between the valve bodies (also used synthetic oil). Having these similar issues with thin modified head gaskets, I always use copper spray during assembly. I recommended my buddy to do the same & it fixed the issue (so far). The stock copper seal is super thin. Copper gaskets aren't known to seal well without the use of orings (requires machining) & any imperfections in the fittment of the parts will guarantee slight leakage.

I've been running Amsoil ISO 100 Synthetic in mine with no leakage at all so far. I've been monitoring it closely after what happened to my buddy. Hasn't been that long yet but if I run into the problems I'll be sure to report back here. I already have a head rebuilt kit on hand just in case. The valve bodies in these italian made pumps are known to be a hit and miss in reliability depending on how old they are. My buddy's replacement valve bodies had some slight differences than his originals.

To add, most single stage compressors are recommended to be broken in by running the pump the for about 30 mins with the drain open. I've heard for two stage compressors this same break in method is not as effective & must be broken in with pressure to put a bit of load on the pump. Generally rings need to be broken in with cycles of temp rise & cool down. I know it's not an internal combustion engine but I would think break in would be a similar practice but take longer to break in. Although mine was a bit used, I ran some break in cycles with the original oil just in case anyway.
 
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I spoke with a person at the 866 number which was the compressor MFG. I ran mine for 4 months before changing to synthetic. It seems to only weep oil if I'm really using it when sand blasting for an hour or so. Then again I most likely am pushing or over the recommended duty cycle.

Mac
 
It seems to only weep oil if I'm really using it when sand blasting for an hour or so.

Thanks for that info. I haven't ran mine that hard yet, only a number of continuous cycles so far but no issues that I have noticed yet. With my old air compressor my die grinders required the most air & ran it hard but with this compressor I haven't ran them yet. But my die grinders are the quiter IR models generally used on production lines. They don't consume as much air as my cheap die grinder that I use with a cut-off wheel.
 
thanks for the ideas. :)

i have a 60 gallon craftsman tank that i got from the neighbor for free because the pump was bad.

i bought the large 2 cyl HF pump (the one that goes on sale for 100$ here and there) and am assembling the compressor as soon as i get a 5hp+ motor.

i plan on running non synthetic oil for the first few months or so to make sure that everything is seated and then ill switch to synthetic.

the output of the pump is a soft copper tube fitting which i will plumb to some sort of heat exchanger in the same size as the copper and either use fittings or solder/braze it to the line that goes to the compressor. ill probably add a shroud to the large pump pulley as its also a fan to duct air over the entire assembly.

there are some timer/solenoid assemblies that can be added to the bottom of the compressor tank to automatically drain the condensate from the tank after the motor shuts off. i'll probably build one of those as well.


a few of my friends have the cheap HF compressors and have no issues with them as long as they change the compressor oil soon after the first run and then regularly after that.

usually with harbor freight, if it works when you first plug it in, and you do some maintenance regularly, it will last fairly well.

Brian
 
That is quite an upgrade and I can tell you do quality work. It's nice having the tools available to do the job right. The drain adapter is slick!
 
Thank you very much.

I got lucky & sold the 13 yr old Craftsman (I was mistaken, it wasn't 15 yrs old) for $200 a couple of weeks ago. So in the end it was a $50 upgrade (not including accessories, etc.). :)
 
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Now that I no longer have a portable air compressor, I decided to finally install a hose reel, 50 footer. :)


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And the old belt would occasionally slap against the belt cover so while I had the cover off to modify it I decided to but a new belt on it.
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While I'm at it might as well put them on everything else that had old belts that were "bumpy" from "setting in".
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:)
 
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