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JackDD, you responded to my post like you are trying to argue for your point of view. I see no reason to respond to each point...I was merely answering your question...there are advantages with higher-end lights. Doesn't mean they are better for your needs, as I said before. In fact I have a variety of lights for different uses (including some cheap ones that are indeed a great value), and I like it that way! Enjoy what you have, and don't worry about what you might be missing.

Sorry you took offense as offense was not intended. I was stating my point of view to each point that you offered...I think that's legitimate. You state that ..."there are advantages with higher-end lights" and all I'm trying to find out is what those advantages are and none of your points answer my question for the reasons given. What sets a significantly higher priced light apart from the others? If it's better parts, what parts would that be? There aren't many parts involved, a case, a lens, electronics that fit on a thumbnail, a battery and a switch. About the only part it can be is the switch. It is the only moving part in most basic flashlights and being a mechanical part, is prone to failure. That would be true of all switches. The switches in todays lights are very reliable compared to the slide switches in lights just a few years ago. I've yet to see a "clicky" switch in a modern light fail. My 3D Mag Lite has a clicky and has been operating flawlessly for many years.

I guess if you feel free to offer me advice, I can do the same....and that would be to lighten-up and not be so easily offended.
 
Sorry you took offense as offense was not intended. I was stating my point of view to each point that you offered...I think that's legitimate. You state that ..."there are advantages with higher-end lights" and all I'm trying to find out is what those advantages are and none of your points answer my question for the reasons given. What sets a significantly higher priced light apart from the others? If it's better parts, what parts would that be? There aren't many parts involved, a case, a lens, electronics that fit on a thumbnail, a battery and a switch. About the only part it can be is the switch. It is the only moving part in most basic flashlights and being a mechanical part, is prone to failure. That would be true of all switches. The switches in todays lights are very reliable compared to the slide switches in lights just a few years ago. I've yet to see a "clicky" switch in a modern light fail. My 3D Mag Lite has a clicky and has been operating flawlessly for many years.

I guess if you feel free to offer me advice, I can do the same....and that would be to lighten-up and not be so easily offended.

I'm not offended...but you are asking a question, and then trying to argue against every point of my answer. I wasn't offering unsolicited advice, I was answering your question. If you have already made up your mind that there are no advantages, why bother asking the question? Not very useful. While YOU may not find those criteria important, many others do.

If you think all electronics are the same, you are mistaken. Every part can benefit from high quality, from the body, to the glass window, to the electronics. Just because the circuit is small, doesn't mean that it isn't important. If you have ever opened up a light, you would also see that many cheap lights have terrible soldering, and pricier lights tend to be better. Again, there are exceptions...but they are NOT the same components with a higher markup. There are real differences. I'm exiting the thread now...I don't want this to turn into an argument for one type or the other, just pointing out advantages based on my own experience.
 
I'm sorry you feel that way. You're obviously offended. I've always felt that debate (and that's what we were doing) was a good thing. I came here to learn and I have learned. But when I read something that doesn't make sense, I question it. Then the debate begins. I try to be polite, but make a point and hope we can come to an understanding. Most "arguments" are just that....misunderstandings. My background is in metal and metal work and also many years in electronics. I have a very good understanding in both, but not "expert" in either. I'm retired now (10 years) and at 75 I've forgotten more than I've ever learned ;). I've worked inside the HP clean rooms where IC's are made and have a fair understanding of how it's done. I'd ask you not to abandon this forum, but keep expressing your views and maybe we can both learn.
 
I'd ask you not to abandon this forum, but keep expressing your views and maybe we can both learn.

I think Doc meant that he'd made his point and was exiting this thread, not leaving the forum. He's pretty active on CPF, and I'm sure you'll have the opportunity to debate with him in the future :)

Getting back to your question re: why members here buy high-end lights when inexpensive lights will accomplish the same task of producing light... There may be as many answers as there are members. Everyone has different uses for lights, -- some use them for work, some for camping, some carry lights with them day-to-day just so they're prepared and never in the dark. Some people collect them purely for the enjoyment factor of having (and using) a nicely made set of tools. To your point, it might make more financial/redundancy sense to buy 10 inexpensive lights instead of one fancy light, but if a user's work involves life-and-death situations where light is critical, can you blame them for spending the extra money for the increased durability and reliability afforded by a high-end light? Or, for those who do not rely on their lights for work, is there anything wrong with simply wanting to own something special and different?

As an example, I recently purchased a Zebralight for ~$50... with that money I could have bought 10 Of those Sipik zooming lights off of Amazon. I could spend hours describing all the technical reasons why the Zebralight is better than the Sipik, but each one of those reasons is a subjective value judgement that others may judge differently. So basically, I got the Zebralight because I wanted to :)
 
I bought a Nebo Obeam and that was my first light (except a bunch of Maglites but those are commodities, everyone uses them).

That was a couple years ago.

At the time it seemed like a fantastic light, running on 4 AA with a 420 lumen output, which seemed outrageous..
I could not understand how one would pay top $$ (spending over $100 for a flashlight seemed totally silly to me).

Then I bought my second flashlight, Maratac AAA Cu, 32 bucks. I really hesitated until I pulled the trigger, seemed like a lot of money but it looked nice (still now with awesome patina!)
Then I bought another one, and another one and more lights, more parts, batteries.. the rest is history.

I have over 100 flashlights and many of them are very high end.. I too was wondering at first why members here would buy expensive lights, but I did not say anything, I just looked, did not post anything about it but wondered.. and wandered on the forum, got hooked little by little and now understand more and more why members here buy high end lights!! I am one of them! But it takes time, curiosity, exchanging with members, selling, buying, learning. . and I love it.

So yes, respect to the newcomers, we were all one at some point, it's a learning process. And cheers to the seasoned members who are always willing to share and spread the knowledge on this forum
 
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Now there's one thing I hadn't considered.......collectors. Collectors are crazy and will buy any anything. I was one myself as a kid. I collected "purty rocks" and had a whole box of them....until my cousin peed on them. That ended that. :laughing:
 
Now there's one thing I hadn't considered.......collectors. Collectors are crazy and will buy any anything. I was one myself as a kid. I collected "purty rocks" and had a whole box of them....until my cousin peed on them. That ended that. :laughing:

:awman: did you miss the chance to pass the collection on to your cousin ? :crackup:
 
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I remember as a kid on the farm then Rayovac 2XD cell lights, red coned head on white body with couple red stripes around body. Bonus versions had fridge magnet in switch.
Well them an a 6 volt dry cell lantern kept me from dark monsters doing late night chores on way back from barn.

Was nothing worse then either a dim faint glow dimmer then a match or bright flash before bulb popped an left you in the dark between barn an house.
Had a wild uncle that kept nasty yard dogs to keep other things at bay, sometimes it was hard to tell good from bad running past you in dark silently.

Now, I only use lights that light every time, no second chance, and if it does fail, another well built light is going fire up asap.

That's my two cents from a younger old guy lol.
Have a great one.
 
I like my Nebo Redline Select. The "Select" feature is quite convenient as you don't have to cycle through to get desired brightness.
 
I am a custom flashlight user, not collector, as I use my lights, however, I am lucky to own some of the most beautiful lights in the world.

Now...Nebo has be hooked on their lights with great designs. I will buy some for fun, I think they are a great deal for the cost.

They are just fun and cool.

Best,

RedLED
 
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A 14500 or other battery like that will not work.

So, I just found my Nebo bluelight in the closet after years of forgetting that I had it in there. Now that I have much better lights of that size, I decided to see what happened when I put a button-top 14500 in it (mostly because I don't care if I blow this light up.)

The 14500 DOES work in the Nebo blueline. Doesn't look much different than it did with the AA, though. Even with the 14500, it's still light years behind my other lights...very blue tint, a single brightness level, and fairly weak output (130 lumens.)

Just thought someone out there might be curious. I have no idea about how it affects runtime, output, or LED lifetime, though, so do it at your own risk.
 
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