Noctigon Meteor M43

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on BLF Hank recently said the first run is 300 units, and any future runs will depend on demand. The demand has got to be pretty high - this light is a winner - I wonder how many units have sold so far.

I would think there is the potential to sell as many as the S6330, the MM15, the TM26, and the TN36. etc. combined.
 
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From the Orbtronic website:

Purple 18650 Efest rated 35A or 38A is actually 20A cell.
18650 Imren 40A is actually 20A cell.
This is very serious safety issue.
Truth: There is no 35A, or 40A 18650 cells on the market.

I can't confirm this, just something I noticed recently.

The Dampfakkus.de battery testing site: "please be wary of Efests notoriously fake discharge limits." This comment is on their 'Efest Purple 3D IMR18650-2500 35A' page.

http://www.dampfakkus.de/akkutest.php?id=583


BTW, thanks for the beamshots Jose!
 
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M43 manual states: "It is desired to use the cell with the highest voltage on a 7.5A load."

Does anyone know:

1) Does this mean that getting the IMR Hybrid LG MH1 3200mAh batts is good enough for this light since it is rated at 10A continuous drain (10A > 7.5A)?

2) If so, is getting the extra-high current LG HE4 2500mAh IMR or Efest 35A 2500mAh not really necessary to get max light output for this light?

If this is the case, I would rather go with the higher capacity 3200mAh LG MH1 battery.

Thank you for your help.

BTW, is anyone using 4.35V batts? Which one?
 
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I believe I started with throwing out the word "practical". I didn't mean that in a negative way at all; just trying to find a balance between output and runtime without getting hot. It's tough! Like selfbuilt said, the TN36 gets really hot. So it's just an unavoidable limitation at this time until some new technology comes along.

Unless we are using something else that are not LEDs there is no such thing as no heat, or acceptable heat. Manufacturers will not lower their drive currents, or more correctly the wattage, it is a competition of lumen between companies, new LEDs means more lumen not less heat, as more efficient ways of illuminations means more lumen/watt.
What I am saying it is very simple, watts=heat, light output does not matter, 2 lumens for 80W or 10,000lumen for 80W is still the same thing for the hand since it is the same amount of energy dissipated

That is why it makes sense not to use the highest output power on a light for dozens on minutes straight and be conscious about the wattage or various modes. Or one can just carry a huge light like it was posted by Kevin1322.
 
The Dampfakkus.de battery testing site: "please be wary of Efests notoriously fake discharge limits." This comment is on their 'Efest Purple 3D IMR18650-2500 35A' page.

http://www.dampfakkus.de/akkutest.php?id=583


BTW, thanks for the beamshots Jose!

All we need to know is the cell they actually warp their brand around, becasue then we have datasheets to know what the manufacturers says, for example
http://www.powerstream.com/p/INR18650-25R-datasheet.pdf
That is one of the best datasheet on any 18650 cell, you can see capacity claim at 10A or 0.2C (0.2*2500=500mA current test)
 
M43 manual states: "It is desired to use the cell with the highest voltage on a 7.5A load."

Does anyone know:

1) Does this mean that getting the IMR Hybrid LG MH1 3200mAh batts is good enough for this light since it is rated at 10A continuous drain (10A > 7.5A)?

2) If so, is getting the extra-high current LG HE4 2500mAh IMR or Efest 35A 2500mAh not really necessary to get max light output for this light?

If this is the case, I would rather go with the higher capacity 3200mAh LG MH1 battery.

Thank you for your help.

BTW, is anyone using 4.35V batts? Which one?

It simply means the highest voltage on load, in that case 7.5A. Check reviewers and see which cells have the highest voltage on a 7.5A load or something similar to 7.5A, like 8A.
 
Awesome! Thank you!
I would have thought the XP-G2 dedomed would throw farther then that at 80k lux. How far away were the trees in the very back?
 
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