Noctigon Meteor M43

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just thought of this, but if I got a de-domed option, wouldn't there be a big tint mix due to the inherent de-doming tint shift? I wouldn't want a ton of mixed tones
 
tobrien said:
just thought of this, but if I got a de-domed option, wouldn't there be a big tint mix due to the inherent de-doming tint shift? I wouldn't want a ton of mixed tones
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From what I can see, the tint is pretty uniform OTF from the limited bursts Ive run...cannot wait for my dedicated batteries to run this beast lol
 
When testing the light for my review the beam looks pretty uniform in tint, even close up. There's no perceptible tint variation during any normal use. This dedomed light was sent around to several reviewers and no one complained about it.
 
dc38 said:
From the site, looks like 366g
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Isn't that the shipping weight with box + holster, etc.?

I was hoping someone could weigh their empty light without anything else included - no batteries, no shipping box, no holster, no extra o-rings, etc.. Thank you.

I'm hoping the light weighs no more than 1 pound with four batteries. More than 1 pound and its getting too heavy for regular use.
 
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A few questions:

1) The flashlight head's positive battery contacts of all 4 batteries are one gold contact for all batteries. Doesn't this cause problems for batteries with slightly different voltages and discharge currents?

2) What is the parasitic drain for this light?

3) Are the individual LEDs easily replaceable? With 12 LEDs, one may go bad and it would be nice to know it can be easily replaced.

4) Is the white-colored body HAIII? Is the white coat as thick and protective as the grey coat?
 
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carl said:
A few questions:

1) The flashlight head's positive battery contacts of all 4 batteries are one gold contact for all batteries. Doesn't this cause problems for batteries with slightly different voltages and discharge currents?

2) What is the parasitic drain for this light?

3) Are the individual LEDs easily replaceable? With 12 LEDs, one may go bad and it would be nice to know it can be easily replaced.

4) Is the white-colored body HAIII? Is the white coat as thick and protective as the grey coat?
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From what I've read:
1) Most multi-18650 flashlights have the cells in parallel just like this light. It is VERY important to use the same type and brand of cell in all 4 slots all at the same charge level. Do NOT mix and match cells of different charge levels or type. Doing is is extremely dangerous and could result in a battery explosion. There's only one multi-18650 light ever built that's completely safe to run on different cells with different charge levels: the Zebralight S6330 (in that light all 3 cells are basically on separate circuits).

3) the individual LEDs are all mounted in a gigantic direct copper Noctigon. If you can get it out you should be able to reflow all 12 LEDS. The bezel and lens aren't glued on, but removing the optics and surround could be difficult as one leg of each optic is glued down. Unknown at this point whether drilling out that leg on one of the optics will be necessary (and if so no big deal.. the Carclo 10507 optic is very common and costs just $2)

4) Someone who received the white body model confirmed it does indeed appear to be HAIII. It's not actually white. Instead its a very light natural color anodize.
 
Fireclaw18 said:
From what I've read:
1) Most multi-18650 flashlights have the cells in parallel just like this light.
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All Acebeam flashlight have the cells in series connection even if the appear to be in parallel, TN36 also has the cells in series. Niteye are 2 in series 2 in parallel etc. Fenix flashlight have
all cells in series. BTU Shocker all cells in series, Niwalker MM15 has all cells in series even if they are inserted in a parallel fashion (Selfbuilt's review can be read about this)
Most flashlight do not have cells in parallel.
While flashlights using 4 cells in series will not work unless you have 4 cells inserted, if all cells are in parallel, 1 2 or 3 cells can power up the light, 4 cells is not needed in parallel full
configuration.
Cell will autobalance in a parallel setup eventually having the same voltage after very little while, basically always charge each other, unlike a series setup where voltage differences can
cause reverse charging if charge voltage is very different. Those are the reasons why all cells have to be the same model and age. The parallel setup is preferred compared to series for safety.
 
Fireclaw - thank you for the info!

The light colored HAIII is very unusual - looks good. Hope its just as thick as the darker HAIII.

BTW, how would we get access to the glued optic leg to drill it out? The previous video showed the optic cover is set in-place and can't be pried up with an exacto blade. Maybe we can request that our light not be glued? Or request a disassembly-friendly version of the light?
 
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I suppose if you didn't mind destroying the optic you could just drill a whole in the center of the optic. With that hole you could then insert the tip of a needle-nose pliers and lever it up, hopefully breaking the glue.

If that doesn't work you could drill it out from the front. Remove the lens, locate the glued leg, press the drill onto the top of the optic above that leg, and start drilling.

A better option would probably be to ask Hank to make you one without the glued legs.
 
Fireclaw,
I suppose that is one way to get the job done, especially since if someone is replacing the LEDs, he might as well replace the optics that go with the new LEDs.

Just found the bare weight of the M43 (without batteries) listed on BLF by forum member RMM:

12.9 oz; 366 grams - which makes this light heavier than the MM15. But as RMM noted, this is probably due to the heavier copper heatsinks/plates. All in all, the M43 should weigh 19 ounces with 4 batteries inside.
 
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For the same volume copper has a mass which is 3x times more than aluminum, so any aluminum part that is replaced by copper will be 3 times heavier.
 
There are areas that can be improved to make it lighter (just some ideas):

1) The battery carrier's four scalloped areas can be machined/trimmed in the 'middle section' since only the tops and bottoms of the scallops are needed to hold the batteries in place.

2) I suspect the copper endplate of the battery carrier can also be thinned and trimmed since there is more than enough copper material to conduct current - unless the endplate is also acting as a heatsink.
 
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