CelticCross74
Flashlight Enthusiast
I am using brand new AW 16340's and am getting the full near 2 minutes on max out of all 3 of my S Mini's. Gotta say though the Olight CR123 cells they come with are very high quality.
Olight Smini
- Thread starter kj2
- Start date
LOUSYGREATWALLGM
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2009
- Messages
- 239
Thanks for the info CelticCross74. Guess its my AW 16340 that couldn't handle the high current due to its age (didn't expect my AW16340 to be the culprit as they haven't seen much use since I got them). Gotta stop thinking about this while my parcel (16340) is still trying its best to make its way to my place. Really sucks how difficult it is to order Lithium cells nowadays :shakehead
Do you find the neutral white color to be a "rosy" hue? I was surprised to find that the NW S1R is actually slightly pink/rosy looking, as opposed to the typical yellow tint. Not unpleasant, but unexpected for me.
That seems obvious, but in day to day use M1 doesn't always cut it, while H1 might still be overkill. And you won't always remember to set H1 before turning off.
As my signature might indicate, I have particular needs.
I wish I wouldn't have to remember whether I left it in H1 or H2 three days ago. It's not a big deal, just a minor qualm with the Zebralight interface. Most people probably just don't depend on H1 the way I do.
Last edited:
What is the rated current for that cell?
Tachead
Flashlight Enthusiast
The trick is to form a habit. Get into the habit of always switching to H1 before shutting it off. Then eventually you wont even notice your doing it and you will no longer have to think about whether or not its in H2 or H1.
I agree though, the UI is not perfect. That's why I prefer Armytek's Pro UI. It's similar to ZL's, you still get many modes and memory, but you have direct access to moonlight, high, strobe, or your saved memory from off or on. Plus, it remembers what sub mode you were in for each group as well like ZL's.
If Olight would just add some more modes and programmability, or group memory, it would be a great UI too because it already is pretty nice. I just prefer to have more output and special mode options.
Tachead
Flashlight Enthusiast
If it's the older version(not 2016) and is the protected cell, it is max 1.5amps continuous. Which, is not enough for this light so it might be popping the over current protection.
vadimax
Flashlight Enthusiast
Checked with S1 Ti:
L -- 0.028A;
M -- 0.148A;
H -- jumps to 1.609A then drops to 1.549A continuous.
An older 16340 protected often trips current protection on High.
LOUSYGREATWALLGM
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2009
- Messages
- 239
I was puzzled why my AW 16340 couldn't handle the current draw since its also rated at 1.5A (2C) and this might explains it.
Otoh, both of my S Mini RG/Ti was hitting 2A draw
emarkd
Flashlight Enthusiast
I've only carried mine clipped, which means button pointed out since the clip doesn't rotate, but I've had a couple of accidental activations with mine. So personally I'd say its probably pretty likely. The button is quite pronounced due to the swell of the body right where its located. Luckily there's an easy lock-out mode, but you'd probably want to remember to engage it after every use.
Tachead
Flashlight Enthusiast
Yep, another member measured 1.8amp max draw on an S1 with a high end Fluke DMM. And, the Smini and S1R likely draw more due to their higher output ratings(likely 2-3amps+). This flashlight needs high quality cells with a minimum 2amp continuous draw rating(if not more) for safe and proper operation.
Olight should have put a warning about this on the box or in the manual. The only Olight brand cell that will work with this flashlight, for use of turbo, is the 550mAh 5C IMR cell, not the RCR123 version.
Last edited:
rookiedaddy
Enlightened
Really like the bead blasted version, went back to my local flashlight dealer and get another one, now I have an identical twin:
:grin2:
:grin2:
vadimax
Flashlight Enthusiast
Really like the bead blasted version, went back to my local flashlight dealer and get another one, now I have an identical twin:
:grin2:
Now you may do this:
rookiedaddy
Enlightened
:crackup:good idea... LOL!
HerecomestheBoom
Newly Enlightened
The position of the clip in relation to the switch isn't ideal for clip-carry.
I removed the clip as soon as I got mine -just like I did with all my S series lights- and have carried it loose in pocket and haven't had a single accidental activation so far in the two weeks or so I've been carrying it.
To be honest I don't really see why you would need a clip with a light this small, you might want to try it without for a while to see if you really miss it.
vadimax
Flashlight Enthusiast
The position of the clip in relation to the switch isn't ideal for clip-carry.
I removed the clip as soon as I got mine -just like I did with all my S series lights- and have carried it loose in pocket and haven't had a single accidental activation so far in the two weeks or so I've been carrying it.
To be honest I don't really see why you would need a clip with a light this small, you might want to try it without for a while to see if you really miss it.
Is this a copper black? Cannot understand tint from the photo.
Tachead
Flashlight Enthusiast
Last edited:
HerecomestheBoom
Newly Enlightened
emarkd
Flashlight Enthusiast
The emitters are easy to swap in these things so don't ever assume model by tint. My raw copper is rocking a beautiful 4000K 5D1 emitter now.
I tried mine without the clip and didn't like it, but then I never like loose lights...or anything else. I don't want things to move around or jumble together into a mass of crap on top of my legs.
I tried mine without the clip and didn't like it, but then I never like loose lights...or anything else. I don't want things to move around or jumble together into a mass of crap on top of my legs.
