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Hi all!....
that Solarforce L2 18mm bored tubes is the best idea to up the sales....

old4570 call his system L2GO meaning Lego, but to me it stands for L2toGo...

I started assembling this kit when I first got wiff of the DX 15880 buck/boost driver...Aas in a Surefire is tempting! Then I made an MC-E module with the KD 1845 driver and suddenly I needed a 18650 host...
Then Jake came with his store and 18mm 1-cell extenders...So one can buy an L2M with extra tubes and run ANY battery...

So here is my L2GO KIT

igp4372.jpg


Sorry for the color mismatch....there was some miscommunication when I ordered.

And here are the parts with the switches to be carried

igp4375.jpg


Surefire Z41, Ultrafire C1 reverse clickie, and "Spiderfire" copy modded to forward clickie.

And this is the rest of the kit....

igp4378.jpg


3.6V and HO-9 Xenon bulbs, AAs in PVC sleeves, DX 15880 pill, DX 15880 modded in single stage, Dereelight 3SM, MC-E pill. And a good load of batts

This kit has its place (well we got to rationalize our purchases, don't we?). This is going to be the only big flashlight I am gonna get when I relocate for a seasonal contract. That and my EDC lights, plus an MX-Power CR123 that accepts P60 pills and will ride in a funny pack that I use in work. There is one more Dx15880 pill in there so there are so many redundant options....

Big thanks to Jake25 and 4570 for the leads....Kostas
 
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I just joined the Solarforce club. I bought one of the last of Jake25's Scratch & Dent hosts to use as a weapon-mounted light. I had bought a Dereelight 1SD Q5 drop-in module earlier this year when they were still pushing 1 amp as opposed to the 1.2 amps that they currently push so I put that into my new host. The plan was to make a tight-fitting battery spacer to use as a recoil stopper and run one CR123 battery in it but I have some unprotected 18650 cells laying around that would never be used anywhere else so I put them to use. The 1SD has a built-in low-voltage cutoff meant to be used with Li-Ion cells and the L2 takes an 18650 just fine so it works out perfectly. I used the bezel from my SureFire G3 on this as I could use the aluminum bezel on the plastic G3 and the Solarforce, being a weapon light, will rarely be turned on for extended periods of time. The only problem I've run into is that the drop-in rattles in the host with the bezel cranked all the way down, regardless if I use the Solarforce or the G3 bezel on it so I chucked it into the mill and counter-bored the open end of the G3 bezel by about 1 X 1 mm (didn't measure before nor after) and now it's a tight rattle-free fit. No need for aluminum foil. I checked it and it would appear that I really needed to cut it down by about .5mm to make it work but no one would see it so it's fine. Pictures tomorrow...
 
hmmm did you use the outer spring....

in my experience there are 2 variations on the module socket of the soalrforce bodies...

One requires the spring and another does not, but it needs a ring placed at thye bottom of the reflector around the pill threads. You can cut the first coil of the outer spring and you are GTG...
 
Okay, no pictures, yet. Gotta work out the details about a picture host, first.

No, I did not use the metal spring. I figured that the spring would not do a good job of conducting the heat away from the emitter to the aluminum body so I went for the full ring of contact at the reflector/body interface. I'm now thinking that the aluminum foil trick may be needed here to try to move the heat away closer to the pill instead of all the way at the end of the reflector. We'll see, but, as I stated before, this is going onto a weapon that will rarely be used so I may be stressing over nothing. It does get warm after running continuously for about 5-10 minutes.

I will say that the 1SD drop-in being pushed by 3.7 V puts out a nice, bright beam! It's brighter than any other light I have currently but, I'm guessing, not over 200 lumens.
 
indeed...now the foil thing is down around the reflector...the outer spring goes around the pill..different things...
 
Can someone please help me point out where I can get the yellow/red/orange/white silicone O-ring (GITD?) and the multi-coloured rubber boot for the tailcaps?

Have googled, but there were too many links to sort out.

Thanks...
 
Hard anodized L2P (professional) is available from itc_shop at ebay. I ordered one :sick2:. Looks nice but I'm not sure is it possible to make a forward clicky mod.

Here's a few pictures of my SS L2M with a flat bezel ring and lanyard. Nothing special, maybe a little weird looking. The head and the bezel ring needs little more polishing.

Solarforce.L2M.SS.1.jpg


Solarforce.L2M.SS.2.jpg
 
Winx said:
Hard anodized L2P (professional) is available from itc_shop at ebay. I ordered one :sick2:. Looks nice but I'm not sure is it possible to make a forward clicky mod.
Click to expand...

that mods are my infatuation...what do you mean by that? you cannot find a similar tailcap or that you cannot mod the innards? Hard to believe Solarforce changed the yailcap parts/layout just for this light
 
kosPap said:
that mods are my infatuation...what do you mean by that? you cannot find a similar tailcap or that you cannot mod the innards? Hard to believe Solarforce changed the yailcap parts/layout just for this light
Click to expand...

Hmm maybe I talked too soon. I had a doubt that the collar, neck, sleeve, or whatever it is called, could be too short to put a forward clicky. That's the case with a stainless steel L2M. The gap between the tailcap and the body would be too big and the o-ring doesn't reach the collar of the tailcap. I don't believe this is a problem with L2P.

I'll report back when I get the light. Itc_shop sent it yesterday.
 
well I will be waiting to see its compatibility...

BTW installing a forward switch does not rob of any space if you you a rubber bootie that has the inside post/nipple removed...

hmm from your words I understand that you are talking about the S3/S4 tailcaps, don't you?
 
kosPap said:
well I will be waiting to see its compatibility...

BTW installing a forward switch does not rob of any space if you you a rubber bootie that has the inside post/nipple removed...

hmm from your words I understand that you are talking about the S3/S4 tailcaps, don't you?
Click to expand...

No, I don't have a S3 or S4. I was writing about the short stainless tailcap of my L2M. Talking about L2P tailcap modification was an assumption.

About the stainless tailcap... I tried one KD forward clicky PCB (I have a few "spare" ones) and rubber boot without nipple and it was a few millimeters too long. Maybe it's possible to use grinded McClicky so the retainer ring slides deeper toward the switch.
 
If I were to get a solarforce L2, and wanted to use a M30 drop in, is there a short body tube available or would I have to use a dummy cell?
I have been debating getting one, but I don't think I want a 2 cell light. I am used to carrying one cell lights.
 
ironhorse said:
If I were to get a solarforce L2, and wanted to use a M30 drop in, is there a short body tube available or would I have to use a dummy cell?
I have been debating getting one, but I don't think I want a 2 cell light. I am used to carrying one cell lights.
Click to expand...

L2M If your just looking for a host .
 
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