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@Tejasandre, thanks, I was wondering if its the same as the programming for my Hanko Tridents and it seems to be.

I was reading this which seemed far more complicated. Strange because it is talking specifically about the H17F driver with lucidrv2 firmware, but it doesn't seem to bear resemblance to the instructions that you enclosed. More specifically you can select specific levels of current and change quite a few variables that are not available in the list of 22.
 
easilyled said:
@Tejasandre, thanks, I was wondering if its the same as the programming for my Hanko Tridents and it seems to be.

I was reading this which seemed far more complicated. Strange because it is talking specifically about the H17F driver with lucidrv2 firmware, but it doesn't seem to bear resemblance to the instructions that you enclosed. More specifically you can select specific levels of current and change quite a few variables that are not available in the list of 22.
Click to expand...

No problem. :)
 
gunga said:
You are reading the instructions for Guppydrv. Not lucidrv2.

The last link by easilyled is correct.
Click to expand...

Thanks gunga.

Then perhaps you or somebody else can answer my original 2 questions. ;)

1) I'm curious to know what the default levels are that the HF17 driver/lucidrv2 firmware is set to.

2) How would one go about changing it to ML/L/M/H with memory?
 
The Qlite uses guppydrv, which isn't programmable. Rather it has different mode groups you may select depending on your preference.

The H17F however, is programmable for the number of modes, type of mode (blinks vs steady), type of mode memory or lack thereof, temperature sensor threshold, mode brightness, and a double tap shortcut function.

The factory default setting for the H17F is as far as I can tell, ML, L, M, H with memory. Unfortunately I don't have any literature on the exact levels of the default setup.
The only two changes I find necessary for myself, was changing to short cycle memory, and making the ML more of Firefly mode.

Brightness change:
1. Turn the light on to the level you wish to change for at least 1 second. This selects the mode as the one to modify.
2. Rapidly cycle the light at least 8 times, but a few more won't hurt anything. The forward switch's momentary makes this programming relatively easy.
3. Hold the last click so that the light is on. The light should then blink to indicate that it is in programming mode.
4. Tap the number of clicks required for the setting you wish to change. In the case of brightness, it is 3 taps.
5. In the brightness selection the light will start at the lowest level and slowly increase in brightness levels (approximately linear to the eye).
6. Quickly cycle the light once the desired level has been reached.

The forward clicky is ideal for programming this driver and I use the momentary function rather than actually clicking the light fully on.
Also, while entering programing mode requires quick taps, the menu can be done with slower taps.
Turning the light off at any point in the process will cancel the programming. Changes require the light be on and it will return a blink to acknowledge the changes after selecting whichever option you are changing.
Also note that levels 23 and 24 can fry the switch with a sufficiently high amp battery. At $7 a switch, I would highly advise avoiding those two levels.
 
I can't remember. Stock is 4 modes. I don't know the exact levels. It's like l-m-h-max.

To program each level, go to the mode you want to program and use 8 quick presses to get to program mode. The "presses" are assuming a reverse clicky, they are "off cycles", so adapt accordingly for a forward clicky.

Next, 3 presses to enter level selection. It will start at moonlight and ramp to turbo in 24 levels, then ramp back down. Give it a "press" to lock the level. It will blink 3 times to indicate level locked (I think). Now do the same thing to the next level you want to program.

Edit : oops! Sigma beat me to it!
 
Thetasigma said:
The Qlite uses guppydrv, which isn't programmable. Rather it has different mode groups you may select depending on your preference.

The H17F however, is programmable for the number of modes, type of mode (blinks vs steady), type of mode memory or lack thereof, temperature sensor threshold, mode brightness, and a double tap shortcut function.

The factory default setting for the H17F is as far as I can tell, ML, L, M, H with memory. Unfortunately I don't have any literature on the exact levels of the default setup.
The only two changes I find necessary for myself, was changing to short cycle memory, and making the ML more of Firefly mode.

Brightness change:
1. Turn the light on to the level you wish to change for at least 1 second. This selects the mode as the one to modify.
2. Rapidly cycle the light at least 8 times, but a few more won't hurt anything. The forward switch's momentary makes this programming relatively easy.
3. Hold the last click so that the light is on. The light should then blink to indicate that it is in programming mode.
4. Tap the number of clicks required for the setting you wish to change. In the case of brightness, it is 3 taps.
5. In the brightness selection the light will start at the lowest level and slowly increase in brightness levels (approximately linear to the eye).
6. Quickly cycle the light once the desired level has been reached.

The forward clicky is ideal for programming this driver and I use the momentary function rather than actually clicking the light fully on.
Also, while entering programing mode requires quick taps, the menu can be done with slower taps.
Turning the light off at any point in the process will cancel the programming. Changes require the light be on and it will return a blink to acknowledge the changes after selecting whichever option you are changing.
Also note that levels 23 and 24 can fry the switch with a sufficiently high amp battery. At $7 a switch, I would highly advise avoiding those two levels.
Click to expand...

gunga said:
I can't remember. Stock is 4 modes. I don't know the exact levels. It's like l-m-h-max.

To program each level, go to the mode you want to program and use 8 quick presses to get to program mode. The "presses" are assuming a reverse clicky, they are "off cycles", so adapt accordingly for a forward clicky.

Next, 3 presses to enter level selection. It will start at moonlight and ramp to turbo in 24 levels, then ramp back down. Give it a "press" to lock the level. It will blink 3 times to indicate level locked (I think). Now do the same thing to the next level you want to program.

Edit : oops! Sigma beat me to it!
Click to expand...

Thanks guys. :thumbsup:
 
Something came up for me and I need to withdraw my name from the list. Somebody can have my slot.

eala
 
benchrest said:
Dibs? Lol i vote for everyone moving up one, though...or else...double dibs haha
Click to expand...

That is the procedure I prefer.
eala said:
Something came up for me and I need to withdraw my name from the list. Somebody can have my slot.
eala
Click to expand...

Very well, hope things turn out well for you.


Starting the lights full time from now until September, so they should go out a little quicker now.
 
Thanks you for all your efforts keeping us informed every step of the way!
Nicely organized. The spreadsheet is a great tool for visibility.
I'll bet I am not the only one checking it frequently.
 
I tried editing the spreadsheet but its protected. Could you please put me on the list:

Copper, Narrow optics, Sapphire Lens, Clip, Blue switch boot and Blue Fluorosilicone o-rings.

Cheers!
 
Thetasigma said:
Starting the lights full time from now until September, so they should go out a little quicker now.
Click to expand...

This is great to hear! Very good for us and could also be very good for you from the interest in this thread.

Ladd said:
Thanks you for all your efforts keeping us informed every step of the way!
Nicely organized. The spreadsheet is a great tool for visibility.
I'll bet I am not the only one checking it frequently.
Click to expand...

Correct, I check it frequently. Anticipation is a killer.
 
An update for everyone, I am currently low on funds due to setting up a new lathe and tooling, so I will be working on the brass first as I have a good stock of it on hand.

Also, I will be switching the standard lens to a 21mm uncoated glass lens in order to achieve a better seal at the head. If anyone wishes to have a spare 20mm AR lens included with their light, say so when i get in touch with you as I have a few on hand.

helios said:
Please add me to the reservation list for an aluminum body with blue switch.
Click to expand...
Added to the backup list.
 
Really enjoying the lights. The improved run times vs the 123's I used to carry makes a big difference. Form & function are outstanding. My sigmas have become my daily carry. :)
 
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