Sofirn C01 Potted AAA w High CRI

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Submitted for your approval, the Sofirn C01 with hi-CRI Yugi LEDs in 3200K and 5600K tints following in the footsteps of some old light with Nichia-GS.
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And of course the obligatory beamshot though there's not much of a beam from only 1-ft distance.
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and taking turns individually.
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It's a back-up light for $8 that's better than the freebie junk.

BTW, the old light's not retiring any time soon.
 
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Submitted for your approval, the Sofirn C01 with hi-CRI Yugi LEDs in 3200K and 5600K tints following in the footsteps of some old light with Nichia-GS....

Thanks for posting the photos. I really like the 5600K of the Sofrn C01. :thumbsup:
 
Thanks for posting the photos. I really like the 5600K of the Sofrn C01. :thumbsup:
Agreed.

Generally my preference is for neutral to warm tints but that 5600K is loverly.

At these low levels, I'd describe the illumination from these two tints as -
3200K feels like the light from an incan
5600K feels like daylight in the shadows
 
Should I pick up some of the regular white ones?
...
Is this kind of fatal drain common with flashlights?

No, and Yes

It is the responsibility of the Operator, to check the voltage on their rechargeable batteries.

I use Eneloop and Eneloop Pro in my Massdrop AAA Tool. When the battery gets weak, I cannot access High Mode. That is my hint that it is time to recharge. At that point my batteries tend to test below 1.2v

It is not required that Eneloop/pro be drained completely before recharging. It is better to recharge earlier than later.


When using rechargeables in any light, it is the responsibility of the user not to overdischarge, by checking voltage, watching for dimming, and NOT leaving the light on for 30 hours

ONLY disposable batteries should be used for 30 hour runs, if that is something you enjoy. Personally, though I respect the use of sublumen levels, I have no need to drain my batteries completely. I do not use disposable batteries.

You may have been confused by discussion about cockroach lights running at sublumen levels for long hours, using disposable batteries.

When you use your Yuji C01's with rechargeable batteries, just change batteries when the light gets dim. And I suggest you add some sort of Voltmeter to your kit, so you can use rechargeable batteries, knowing their Voltage levels.

I find a Voltmeter extremely helpful to have. I highly recommend you add Voltage monitoring to your Eneloop/pro user experience.


Just for you Jon, I know what a tint comparison junky you are :)

Thank You!
Your photos are truly excellent beam comparisons, for several reasons
1. By lining up 3 lights, with one of them being cool white, it gives a very good reference for comparison of the tint (color temperature) of the two Yujis

2. By lining up warmest on left (color temperature), next warmest in middle, and coolest on right, your photo makes it easy to see the change and progression of the 3 different CCT (color temperatures), and Tints (Orange, White, Blue)

3. the beams do not overlap, in the animation, which allows us to see the shape of the entire beam includingt any hotspot, plus the size of the spill. In this case the Yujis demonstrate their Aspheric beam and diffused spill, similar to a Mule, in contrast to the partial focused but relatively wide hotspot, with small spill, of your cool white Nichia-GS on the right.


one of the benefits of the Yujis, since their color temperature is known, and because they have high CRI and high R9, is that in the future they can be used as excellent reference lights for beam photo comparisons.

I like everything about the LED selection in the Sofirn C01, including the beam shape, tint, and color temperatures. Im particularly interested in the 5600k High CRI experience, which will be new to me. All my other High CRI lights are warmer.

I predict that years from now, the C01 will have Cult Following, not unlike the great cockroaches upon whose shoulders the Yuji C01 stands. There will be two subcultures, the Warm one, and the Cool one :-), although most people will buy both.


Jon,
That's a nice way of saying Tint Snob.
P

Indeed!
And Proud to be in good company ;-)

I like Warm Wide beams for close range and low lumens
I like Cool Narrow beams for longer range and higher lumens

I have not received my Yujis yet but this is my anticipated use
The warm Yuji will make a great bedstand light, and for times when the white balance of my brain is at its lowest levels (fully dark adapted)
The cool Yuji will make a great EDC for times when my brain is adapted to cooler light, including during the day.
 
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In my Photon Freedom Covert Yuji experience I have both color temps. I switch every once in a while, but will say the 3200k version as a neck edc is my preferred temp of the 2.
 
My lights have been in pre-shipment since 11/24. Is that normal? I don't mind waiting. I just want to be sure that things are on track.
 
I think my Asian packages were subject to offical US Gov irradiation treatment before sent to final destination. The black anodize (type who knows) peeled off Al like cheap spray paint
 
In my Photon Freedom Covert Yuji experience I have both color temps. I switch every once in a while, but will say the 3200k version as a neck edc is my preferred temp of the 2.

I too have both color temps -- in regular Photon Freedoms. I absolutely love them; 3200K for night reading, especially -- dimmed to proper reading level. Also, they fit great in the coin pocket of jeans -- I attach a little lanyard with some kind of bead at the end to remove it from the pocket.
Been meaning to mod a Covert.

I keep thinking about getting a Sofirn C01 -- but guess I might wait to see how everyone likes them. Peeling paint gives me pause.
 
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I too have both color temps -- in regular Photon Freedoms. I absolutely love them; 3200K for night reading, especially -- dimmed to proper reading level. Also, they fit great in the coin pocket of jeans -- I attach a little lanyard with some kind of bead at the end to remove it from the pocket.
Been meaning to mod a Covert.

I keep thinking about getting a Sofirn C01 -- but guess I might wait to see how everyone likes them. Peeling paint gives me pause.
If I was going to swap the LED in a Photon Freedom, what kind of specs should I look for in the LED?
 
I think my Asian packages were subject to offical US Gov irradiation treatment before sent to final destination. The black anodize (type who knows) peeled off Al like cheap spray paint

Are you saying you received a Sofirn C01 with bad anodizing?
 
That's cause for concern. I ordered mine on November, 10th. No dice.

Anyone else in the States have theirs?

Ordered 11/10

November 20, 2018,
Acceptance

November 24, 2018, processed through a facility in GUANGZHOU EMS, CHINA

when ordering from china, sometimes I receive stuff within 2 weeks, sometimes it takes a month
I often do not get accurate tracking, the item may show to be in China, and end up in my mailbox

in this case, so far, not received. Im in Norther California, same as knucklegary
do I look worried? nah, its normal for cheap lights coming from china, from various vendors


The black anodize (type who knows) peeled off Al like cheap spray paint

pics or it didnt happen, lol
 
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I don't remember specifically seeing what kind of anodizing these use. Are they type 2 or 3?
 
For those keeping track, my Nov. 21 order landed on Tuesday.

I could only order one, cool white, light at that time. I have an order from Nov. 23 coming with the 3200K model.

I am very impressed with this light so far. Finish and function are superb, silky smooth threads, but firm enough not to turn on its own. I did add a small bit of Nyogel, it looked like it may have some light lube on it, but so little I could not be sure it wasn't dry. Surprised to hear of a bad finish, I recall a close up of the light that was thrown in the air and at the ground where the magnet hole was dented in, but the finish still intact. Defects will always happen though, just at varying frequencies. Time and pocket wear will tell, and a bare, polished C01 would be kinda cool too.
 
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