think2x
Flashlight Enthusiast
M6LT head on an M4 body I think.
Surefire Lego?
- Thread starter flash_bang
- Start date
M6LT head on an M4 body I think.
tobrien
Flashlight Enthusiast
i think you're right. good eye ;)
kongfuchicken
Flashlight Enthusiast
How did you get your head to come off the body?
Even with a heat gun, I think I pulled a muscle trying to get mine off...
Even with a heat gun, I think I pulled a muscle trying to get mine off...
HydroDynamic
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2011
- Messages
- 26
Hold head neck flats toward lens side in vise with wood jaw protectors. Insert pipe or solid into battery compartment so the body does not crush then wrap body in leather then use a large pliers or pipe wrench to turn.
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tobrien
Flashlight Enthusiast
dang, it sounds like you put tooth and nail effort into that!
Nice lego looks great. Like how you used the latest M4 body with the currant logo matching the modern head. Sounds like a hard job to get the head off M6LT. You have some balls as it could of went south very easily.
Thanks for sharing :thumbsup:
:wave:
jamie.91
Enlightened
New aquasitions
L60 and SW02 :)
The L60 still needs to be bored out to finish my shortie :)
L60 and SW02 :)
The L60 still needs to be bored out to finish my shortie :)
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jamie.91
Enlightened
I have a question!!
Has anyone got a good way to remove the anodising from the threads inside a 6p tailcap?
Because ye threads on the l60 are short the cap doesn't bottom out do electrical conductivity needs to be through the threads!
I'm currently using a solarforce tailcap but it's so ugly compared to the surefire :)
Thanks
Jamie
Has anyone got a good way to remove the anodising from the threads inside a 6p tailcap?
Because ye threads on the l60 are short the cap doesn't bottom out do electrical conductivity needs to be through the threads!
I'm currently using a solarforce tailcap but it's so ugly compared to the surefire :)
Thanks
Jamie
Meganoggin
Enlightened
Some of the aggressive oven cleaners will remove ano', but be careful, it's nasty stuff.
yoyoman
Flashlight Enthusiast
Sodium hydroxide (lye) also removes anodizing. There is a thread on this, but they removed the anodizing from the whole head and body. I guess you could carefully hang tailcap so only the threads are impacted. Also nasty stuff - use gloves.
Here's the thread: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...p-Sodium-Hydroxide&highlight=sodium+hydroxide
Here's the thread: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...p-Sodium-Hydroxide&highlight=sodium+hydroxide
jamie.91
Enlightened
Thanks for that, I've searched but there's no definitive answers
jamesmtl514
Flashlight Enthusiast
Found o-rings for my proto E1 bodies, made this cutie with spare parts.
T45
Enlightened
New aquasitions
L60 and SW02 :)
The L60 still needs to be bored out to finish my shortie :)
Just curious, but does that Oveready tail cap make the tail cap a twisty only? no momentary or click?
jamie.91
Enlightened
Yes, twisty only.
It's a solid brass part that screws into your surefire tailcap.
Mines not set up properly yet though and I can't find any info from other people how they have set theirs up:(
When switched off/ untwisted the battery rattles because there is a gap. My only idea was a fibre washer or a plastic spring but I'm not sure weather it would work and I can't find the parts I need to try it :(
Maybe wrap the batteries with a piece of paper or tape them together... I would think that any kind of a plastic washer would keep it from making contact when tightened, but I have never used one.
One thing to keep in mind that we learned back when the first z57 tailcaps were not working to well. There is a plastic washer under the wrapper on the negative side of your cr123 batteries.
One thing to keep in mind that we learned back when the first z57 tailcaps were not working to well. There is a plastic washer under the wrapper on the negative side of your cr123 batteries.
jamie.91
Enlightened
I'm using a single 17500, it's about 5mm to 10mm to short so a cr123 is way too short,I've not got one to try but I think a 17650 would be 5mm to long.
The threads are shorter on the L60 body and the Z57 bottoms out 10mm before making contact with the cell, I did consider putting the Z57 on the lathe and shortening it seen as the first 8mm or so has no threads anyways, hopefully this would solve everything but I'm not sure how it would look and I'd guess you'd see the silver shiny ring where there's no ano which I wouldn't like.
Thanks
Jamie
yoyoman
Flashlight Enthusiast
The ZRS adds 15 mm. I have an Oveready TL20 body with a 18350. You can do a TL34 with a 18500 or a TL50 with a 18650 (or 2x18350). Oveready puts o-rings at the top to help with rattle. A lot depends on the spring of the dropin. A longer spring will give you more play. You can also use a spacer (TL50, ZRS, spacer and either a 16340, 18350).
jamie.91
Enlightened
Length isn't te real problem, I can alter that to fit, it's the rattle that bothers me, when the light is off there needs to be a gap between the battery and brass and that's my gripe. I was thinking a fibre washer would hold in place but compress enough under pressure to allow contact.
I don't feel like I can "trust" this light like I do with others.
yoyoman
Flashlight Enthusiast
Is the rattle from diameter or length? To stop rattle from diameter, you can wrap the cell in light cardboard. To stop rattle from lenght, you can use an o-ring or lengthen the spring from the dropin. I don't have these issues with my set ups that use the ZRS and I find them very robust and reliable. Another random thought - are you unscrewing the tail too much? Also, see the Oveready site (>Upgrades, >Body Upgrades) for the Battery Bumpers.
jamie.91
Enlightened
It's length. When untwisted to turn the light off there needs to be a break in the circuit, done by separating the cell from the zero Rez, this gap then produces rattle.
To prevent a million turns between on and off the spring needs to be stiffer too.
If I didn't want to run a 17500 so bad I'd go to a clicky :(
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