The Malkoff Front Porch

[flashlightinterested]

And yes, multi-mode lights aren't really serious lights. When the poop hits the fan, you simply won't have the bandwidth to deal with a UI. Caveman brain want light. Caveman finger hit button. Caveman get light. I always love how the Reddit types will insist that, in a real dire situation, they'll remember their multi-tap modes to do exactly what they need to. You can tell they've never been punched in the face, because, as Mike Tyson said, EVERYONE has a plan until they get punched in the face.

Fair enough, I asked your opinion and you gave it. I'd suggest there's a whole world between looking at things for fun and poop hitting the fan. I don't think the AA MDC is a toy just because it's unsuited for use with a firearm, or because caveman brain won't remember to hit the button three times before clicking it all the way. If it helps you do something productive, personally I would call it a tool, not a toy. But if you wouldn't, then that explains your view of the D3AA.

My biggest issue with Anduril is that it's for people who want a hobby in configuring a UI. It tends to be popular with the "techie" crowd, because configuring their Internet-of-Things "Smart" house is their hobby. So, they LOVE Anduril. Sitting down, and spending two hours setting it up to their exact preferences? SHEER JOY!

That's possible. Certainly the more vocal people about it seem closer to this. I can't stand smart-home/car stuff, personally. I don't find most of Anduril very interesting. I want to disable aux, set the moonlight to something reasonable (a lot have an insanely low level set, I like sub-lumen, but not like 1/1000th of one), and that's about it. The on/off and moonlight shortcuts are very intuitive to me. And I like that you can decrease the brightness, something not many lights do without going higher first or turning it off and starting over.

Your point on batteries is well made. It's true that batteries, especially Eneloops, are not very expensive long-term to just have more of them. And the cost to recharge is trivial. I guess I feel that the tech for high efficiency drivers exists and is not necessarily expensive. I don't see much reason, except maybe at the lower price points (or when the light is extremely high output and it's not feasible), for lights not to have efficient drivers. Kind of like how I am fine with buying a 100 lumen light, but I wouldn't get one that used the XR-E emitter, because things that make that output from less power exist, things that have nicer beam quality exist. It's not that you couldn't accomplish things with an old emitter, just that at this point when buying new, there's no reason not to expect something better. I will tolerate a worse driver sooner than I'd tolerate a worse emitter though. And I do wish I'd gotten one of the Surefire 6Px's when they still used a Nichia emitter, even though they had half the brightness of the current model.

 

[iacchus]

I got rid of my BOSS 70 because I found the UI unsuitable for serious work.


Anduril is a UI that I can appreciate, but don't care for.

 

[Schokokeks]

Fair enough, I asked your opinion and you gave it. I'd suggest there's a whole world between looking at things for fun and poop hitting the fan. I don't think the AA MDC is a toy just because it's unsuited for use with a firearm, or because caveman brain won't remember to hit the button three times before clicking it all the way. If it helps you do something productive, personally I would call it a tool, not a toy. But if you wouldn't, then that explains your view of the D3AA.


That's possible. Certainly the more vocal people about it seem closer to this. I can't stand smart-home/car stuff, personally. I don't find most of Anduril very interesting. I want to disable aux, set the moonlight to something reasonable (a lot have an insanely low level set, I like sub-lumen, but not like 1/1000th of one), and that's about it. The on/off and moonlight shortcuts are very intuitive to me. And I like that you can decrease the brightness, something not many lights do without going higher first or turning it off and starting over.

Your point on batteries is well made. It's true that batteries, especially Eneloops, are not very expensive long-term to just have more of them. And the cost to recharge is trivial. I guess I feel that the tech for high efficiency drivers exists and is not necessarily expensive. I don't see much reason, except maybe at the lower price points (or when the light is extremely high output and it's not feasible), for lights not to have efficient drivers. Kind of like how I am fine with buying a 100 lumen light, but I wouldn't get one that used the XR-E emitter, because things that make that output from less power exist, things that have nicer beam quality exist. It's not that you couldn't accomplish things with an old emitter, just that at this point when buying new, there's no reason not to expect something better. I will tolerate a worse driver sooner than I'd tolerate a worse emitter though. And I do wish I'd gotten one of the Surefire 6Px's when they still used a Nichia emitter, even though they had half the brightness of the current model.

I sort of have an "around the house" category for lights. I keep a whole bunch of Sofirn HS05's (their old AA 90* light) around because they were cheap (on clearance), and I like them well enough. They're not nearly as reliable as some of my other lights, of course. My MDC AA is one of my most used lights around the house for sure, especially late at night.

High/low twists are nice, too. Elzetta, Malkoff, and Eagtac use that interface. That's nice.

I'm happy enough having a range of different brightness single mode light, though. More than a couple of levels and I find it tedious.


I don't foresee myself adjust the light a whole lot. I do like distinct steps (I know people gush about ramping, but I like to KNOW about what level I'm at), and will probably turn off the aux nonsense, haha.

I'd agree on a nice emitter is more important than a good driver for me. Efficiency is cool and interesting in a spreadsheet, but I change the batter of my 16340 "desk flashlight" Malkoff with an M61NLL or M61WLL about...once a year, haha. People rag on Malkoff efficiency, but...it's good enough that I don't really notice or care. I use that daily, and charge the single, small battery annually. A good beam, meanwhile is lovely and immediately appreciated. Though, your point reminds me of another reason I tend to prefer Malkoff - having nice things is nice.

Life is short, and it's satisfying to hold a Malkoff. It's maybe not as sculptural as my Haiku, but boy is it just a quality product. Smooth, comfortable, durable (the finish is the best, bar none), simple, and perfectly reliable.

 

[Schokokeks]

Oh, yeah, speaking of beautiful beams...So, I got my M91BW this week.

If you have an M91BN, and you find it to be lovely, do yourself a favor, and get an M91BW.

I know it's not high-CRI, but man, Gene has maybe the best bin of the XP-L warms and neutrals out there. I was DAZZLED when I put it in a head and turned it on. It's gorgeous.
Now, I have the problem of not knowing if I prefer the N or the W... I also think there are a few emitters that play VERY nice with Don's reflectors, and the XP-L and SST-20 just always have the best beams in the Malkoff drop-ins; that feathered edge hotspot with good spill. Just, wow.

 

[jonc2]

Thanks for the recs.... pics of the inexpensive lens diffuser from Ali.

I would be very willing to purchase a high quality USA version. On a MDC 1-AA.

 

[leukos]

Looks good! With a little modification to the rubber ring, these can also fit the Aviator. Takes the light to a whole new level of options and usefulness:

 

[Schokokeks]

These remind me of the diffusers Eagtac sells for their soda can lights.

I THINK Gene uses that diffuser film from the Wildcat on the FFL MDC AA's. I Wonder if Gene would ever consider selling a small circle of that for any of his lights. Put it between the drop-in and the lens (under the gasket), and it's work for any of the M31, M61, or M91 drop-ins.

I remember back when, NHLumens sold that film, but it was pretty pricey (because the true, non-Ali base material is fairly pricey). But, I don't know, I might be tempted to pick up a $20 cut-to-size diffuser to slap behind the lenses of my Malkoffs...

 

[tex.proud]

Looks good! With a little modification to the rubber ring, these can also fit the Aviator. Takes the light to a whole new level of options and usefulness:

View attachment 95556

Diffusers are interesting, but I use the aviator body with a MDC head. I don't see a need for one.

Carry On!

 

[jonc2]

Diffusers are interesting, but I use the aviator body with a MDC head. I don't see a need for one.

I just use them for lens protection. With a solid cover, you wouldn't be able to see accidental activation or just forgetting to turn the light off.

 

[jonc2]

Anyone get an E-Mail from Kōsen?

I'm in the AA club, wife and I have 3-1AAs and 2-2AAs stock MDC Malkoffs all in Neutral 4000K.

What will the Kōsen 1AA get me with the Nichia 519A sm353 domed LED 3500K?

Will I be able to tell a difference between the 4000K and the 3500K? I've been wanting to explore warmer lights. I'll admit I'm a bit of a white wall hunter but it's not the most important thing. Does this LED have a nice smooth profile?

 

[ilikeguns40]

Anyone get an E-Mail from Kōsen?

I'm in the AA club, wife and I have 3-1AAs and 2-2AAs stock MDC Malkoffs all in Neutral 4000K.

What will the Kōsen 1AA get me with the Nichia 519A sm353 domed LED 3500K?

Will I be able to tell a difference between the 4000K and the 3500K? I've been wanting to explore warmer lights. I'll admit I'm a bit of a white wall hunter but it's not the most important thing. Does this LED have a nice smooth profile?

Big difference in tint. You’ll definitely be able to tell the difference. If you hold up a 3500k 519a against an SST20 4000k, the SST will look green and ugly, you probably won’t even wanna use it again

Gene should just use 519a 4000k for his neutral tint option and 519a 5700k for his cool option

 

[jonc2]

Big difference in tint. You’ll definitely be able to tell the difference. If you hold up a 3500k 519a against an SST20 4000k, the SST will look green and ugly, you probably won’t even wanna use it again

Gene should just use 519a 4000k for his neutral tint option and 519a 5700k for his cool option

I'll be ready when they come up. Thanks!

EDIT: Looks like they just changed the website. Offered in 2700K and 3500K. Hmmmm...

 

[lampeDépêche]

I'll be ready when they come up. Thanks!

EDIT: Looks like they just changed the website. Offered in 2700K and 3500K. Hmmmm...

Yeah, the email was kind of confused. The subject line said “3500K”, but then the body said “2700K”. If they offering both, that’s a good outcome.
I love the look and mood of 2700K and lower lights, but I no longer choose them for all-around, any time of day or night lights. I need something in the 4000K-5000K range for all purpose.

 

[Schokokeks]

Does this LED have a nice smooth profile?

This is where I strongly prefer the SST-20 to the 519A. The SST-20 has what I would describe as a "feathered edge" along the rim of the hotspot, while it's a more clear and distinct hotspot on the 519A. I have the 4500K 519A and the 4000K SST-20. The hotspot difference is even more pronounced in the brighter M61N 4000K vs M61N 3500K 519A.

Beam and tint wise, you will absolutely see a difference. The 3500K is interesting in that it's warmer than neutral, but still not really warm. It's a good bridge into warmer CCTs and a good all-arounder for a warm CCT. The tint on the sm353 is very rosey, while the SST-20 tends to be neutral-to-green - tint lottery.

I'm going to be in the minority, but I think the SST-20 has a better looking beam profile. I acknowledge the 519A will almost always have a better tint, though.

I like a yellow beam, and am not crazy about rosey tints, so the yellow beam with a greenish tint is okay in my book.

I'd say, it all depends on what you want to do with it. If you have a bunch of MDC AA's, and you want to branch out, this is a great option. If you want just one MDC AA and you absolutely HATE a greenish tint, and don't want to play the tint lottery, I think this is a great option. If you want an MDC AA to just have a nice, warmish beam, this is a great option. If you mostly just use the light, aren't really picky on your beams, and just want to make sure you have something high CRI, the SST-20 is perfectly fine - and might have a nicer beam profile, depending on your preferences. If you're a psycho like me, and you prefer a yellow beam and a green tint isn't a dealbreaker (I only hate it when it's in a high CCT beam), the SST-20 is just fine.

I have 4 MDC AA lights. One 4000K SST-20 (which has a dead nuts neutral tint, and is my favorite), one 4500K 519A (my favorite CCT of the 519A), and then an 1800K FFL, and 5000K FFL, both with a frosted TIR. So, if you just want some variety, and you have the budget for it - DO IT! You won't be upset.

I think it's trickier for people who only want ONE light, and are trying to figure out of they should pay the premium cost to move to the 519A over the SST-20. I think that's a harder decision, and going to be a lot more depending on use case and budget.

 

[jonc2]

This is where I strongly prefer the SST-20 to the 519A. The SST-20 has what I would describe as a "feathered edge" along the rim of the hotspot, while it's a more clear and distinct hotspot on the 519A. I have the 4500K 519A and the 4000K SST-20. The hotspot difference is even more pronounced in the brighter M61N 4000K vs M61N 3500K 519A.

Beam and tint wise, you will absolutely see a difference. The 3500K is interesting in that it's warmer than neutral, but still not really warm. It's a good bridge into warmer CCTs and a good all-arounder for a warm CCT. The tint on the sm353 is very rosey, while the SST-20 tends to be neutral-to-green - tint lottery.

I'm going to be in the minority, but I think the SST-20 has a better looking beam profile. I acknowledge the 519A will almost always have a better tint, though.

I like a yellow beam, and am not crazy about rosey tints, so the yellow beam with a greenish tint is okay in my book.

I'd say, it all depends on what you want to do with it. If you have a bunch of MDC AA's, and you want to branch out, this is a great option. If you want just one MDC AA and you absolutely HATE a greenish tint, and don't want to play the tint lottery, I think this is a great option. If you want an MDC AA to just have a nice, warmish beam, this is a great option. If you mostly just use the light, aren't really picky on your beams, and just want to make sure you have something high CRI, the SST-20 is perfectly fine - and might have a nicer beam profile, depending on your preferences. If you're a psycho like me, and you prefer a yellow beam and a green tint isn't a dealbreaker (I only hate it when it's in a high CCT beam), the SST-20 is just fine.

I have 4 MDC AA lights. One 4000K SST-20 (which has a dead nuts neutral tint, and is my favorite), one 4500K 519A (my favorite CCT of the 519A), and then an 1800K FFL, and 5000K FFL, both with a frosted TIR. So, if you just want some variety, and you have the budget for it - DO IT! You won't be upset.

I think it's trickier for people who only want ONE light, and are trying to figure out of they should pay the premium cost to move to the 519A over the SST-20. I think that's a harder decision, and going to be a lot more depending on use case and budget.

I appreciate all of the info. I think I'm just wanting to try out a warmer Malkoff. Like you said, branching out! If I dislike it that much, I could make it a vehicle emergency light. I still wonder if the MDCs will get the programmability feature...

The greatest thing I like about the MDC 1-AA is the 8 lumen low. It's not quite bright enough in some situations but that's what makes it great. It doesn't ruin my night vision and it's comfortable on the eyes. It also doesn't bother others when walking on trails. I do appreciate the lowlow and the high which both see occasional use. It's the perfect light for me.

 

[leukos]

True, the SST-20 has a slightly tighter hotspot, but I can’t stand the doughnut hole beam up close on the AA version. The low mode is kind of useless for reading and other closeup work. 519a solves this problem by having a beautiful beam up close. 3500K is the sweet spot for me.

 

[jonc2]

True, the SST-20 has a slightly tighter hotspot, but I can’t stand the doughnut hole beam up close on the AA version. The low mode is kind of useless for reading and other closeup work. 519a solves this problem by having a beautiful beam up close. 3500K is the sweet spot for me.

I think I know what you are describing with the donut hole, it doesn't bother me. I can also see why the LowLow mode wouldn't be useful to some. It works pretty well in my well darkened bedroom when needed *if* my eyes are adjusted to the darkness. It's also useful in some situations where you want to keep track of the light when fixing a flat at night on a bicycle (as an example). Just leave it running on LowLow.

I think I'm going to jump on the 3500K. It looks like Kōsen sells out these runs so it doesn't look like a bad choice. I've seen some screenshots of these warmer lights, I'm eager to see how they do indoors and out.

These lower lumen lights with a neutral to warm beam are also easier on older eyes, which I have!

 

[Schokokeks]

I appreciate all of the info. I think I'm just wanting to try out a warmer Malkoff. Like you said, branching out! If I dislike it that much, I could make it a vehicle emergency light. I still wonder if the MDCs will get the programmability feature...

The greatest thing I like about the MDC 1-AA is the 8 lumen low. It's not quite bright enough in some situations but that's what makes it great. It doesn't ruin my night vision and it's comfortable on the eyes. It also doesn't bother others when walking on trails. I do appreciate the lowlow and the high which both see occasional use. It's the perfect light for me.

I half joke that I'd be happy with a 2-mode MDC AA; low low and low, haha. The 0.8 and 8 lumens are MOST of what I use. It is nice to be able to jump up, I guess, too. A high/low twist action AA would be SWEET!

True, the SST-20 has a slightly tighter hotspot, but I can’t stand the doughnut hole beam up close on the AA version. The low mode is kind of useless for reading and other closeup work. 519a solves this problem by having a beautiful beam up close. 3500K is the sweet spot for me.

Interestingly, the 519A just pushes that effect back a few inches. If you get REAL CLOSE, you can still see it. I assume it has to do with die size, and inversely probably explains the difference in beams, in general. If you want the donut effect almost entirely gone, try one of the FFL frosted TIR versions. You can kind of make out the effect a bit at just the right distance, but that beam is pretty even. It was weird at first, but I kind of like that frosted TIR for up close. I very much like it on my 1800K MDC for super late at night in winter. I don't much use the 5000K FFL cause it's PURE white, which...isn't my cup of tea. It's really neat, though.

I think I know what you are describing with the donut hole, it doesn't bother me. I can also see why the LowLow mode wouldn't be useful to some. It works pretty well in my well darkened bedroom when needed *if* my eyes are adjusted to the darkness. It's also useful in some situations where you want to keep track of the light when fixing a flat at night on a bicycle (as an example). Just leave it running on LowLow.

I think I'm going to jump on the 3500K. It looks like Kōsen sells out these runs so it doesn't look like a bad choice. I've seen some screenshots of these warmer lights, I'm eager to see how they do indoors and out.

These lower lumen lights with a neutral to warm beam are also easier on older eyes, which I have!

Yeah, I think this is like the 2nd or 3rd run of these, and they STILL sell out. If I didn't have a 4000K SST-20 AND the 4500K 519A MDC AAs, and THEN the 3500K 519A M61N, I'd probably get one.

Though, it sounds like there will also be a 2700K MDC AA???? THAT sounds pretty interesting. The 3000K warm SST-20 stuff is lovely.

If you like 4000K, you should like 3500K.
If you're in the northern part of IL and you get snow, the warm CCTs are FANTASTIC during winter. Going outside in the snow with a 5000K+ CCT is blinding, while going out with 3000K or less is just...comfy.
I've really moved to warm lights for winter, and I will never move back. I rotate to higher CCTs in summer, though.

I bought the 1800K FFL MDC AA on a whim here in the for sale section, and it's kind of become a night time favorite.

Alternatively, you could also get one of those 1910K Sapphires. I have one, and it's very pretty and very cozy. I think I like the 3000K I have more, though. 2700-4000K is really where I like lights, with 4500K being my perfect neutral, and 5000K being my maximum tolerable CCT, haha. Below 2700K is...interesting.

 

[jonc2]

I half joke that I'd be happy with a 2-mode MDC AA; low low and low, haha. The 0.8 and 8 lumens are MOST of what I use. It is nice to be able to jump up, I guess, too. A high/low twist action AA would be SWEET!


Interestingly, the 519A just pushes that effect back a few inches. If you get REAL CLOSE, you can still see it. I assume it has to do with die size, and inversely probably explains the difference in beams, in general. If you want the donut effect almost entirely gone, try one of the FFL frosted TIR versions. You can kind of make out the effect a bit at just the right distance, but that beam is pretty even. It was weird at first, but I kind of like that frosted TIR for up close. I very much like it on my 1800K MDC for super late at night in winter. I don't much use the 5000K FFL cause it's PURE white, which...isn't my cup of tea. It's really neat, though.


Yeah, I think this is like the 2nd or 3rd run of these, and they STILL sell out. If I didn't have a 4000K SST-20 AND the 4500K 519A MDC AAs, and THEN the 3500K 519A M61N, I'd probably get one.

Though, it sounds like there will also be a 2700K MDC AA???? THAT sounds pretty interesting. The 3000K warm SST-20 stuff is lovely.

If you like 4000K, you should like 3500K.
If you're in the northern part of IL and you get snow, the warm CCTs are FANTASTIC during winter. Going outside in the snow with a 5000K+ CCT is blinding, while going out with 3000K or less is just...comfy.
I've really moved to warm lights for winter, and I will never move back. I rotate to higher CCTs in summer, though.

I bought the 1800K FFL MDC AA on a whim here in the for sale section, and it's kind of become a night time favorite.

Alternatively, you could also get one of those 1910K Sapphires. I have one, and it's very pretty and very cozy. I think I like the 3000K I have more, though. 2700-4000K is really where I like lights, with 4500K being my perfect neutral, and 5000K being my maximum tolerable CCT, haha. Below 2700K is...interesting.

I'm in Southern Illinois, snow is not common but plenty of hot humid weather. I can't complain about 2026, it's been nice so far. Wife and I are all AA now so I think we are going to stick with that. Most of our lights do see some hot and cold weather in the vehicles so we stick with Energizer Lithium which last a long time for us. I could go buy a inexpensive imported light to try out these warmer LEDs but at this point in life it's all about being Made in the USA. Malkoff reminds me of Maglite, which in my mind were solid lights back in the day. It does look like this drop will be both 2700 & 3500.

 

[jonc2]

From Kōsen: Malkoff MDC AA HCRI Flashlight​

Malkoff MDC AA HCRI Flashlight

Why we built this: For those who spend lots of time in the dark, or require globally available commodity batteries, the MDC AA HCRI brings the same high quality beam, reliability, and ease of carry, with three perfectly tuned output modes for getting around in the dark. We made it small and...

www.kosen.one

Short Specs (full specs below):
- Emitter: Nichia 519A domed LED
- Optic style: McR-series textured reflector
- CCT: 2700K or 3500K
- Power source: 1x AA (NiMH, Alkaline, or Energizer L91)
- Output: 0.3 - 8 - 100 lumens
- User Interface: 3 modes, LL- L- H, starts on LowLow
- Runtime: 200h - 18h - 1h
- Malkoff Devices Lifetime Warranty

3500K headed my way!