The Nightsword project

[get-lit]

After having more time to consider both options, I definitely agree with the touchscreen. The difficult part will be assigning all of the com pins needed for a touchscreen, and more programming work with no readily available sample code to be able to utilize, but it's a much cleaner design, and a lot easier to assemble in the end.

One of the issues I'd have to work around when embedding the linear sensor within the housing is that it has to be centered at the parting line of the mold, so rather than inserting it during the mold process as I had originally planned, it would have to be placed on top of the handle after the two mold halves are joined, and then sealed over with a layer of clear coat. The three LEDs also be another step.

For a single touchscreen, the two mold halves would just have a cutout for the screen, and the screen would be easily inserted after both mold halves are joined.

I had set up an account with the manufacturer of the touchscreen to access the docs, but haven't received a confirmation as of yet. Confirmations might be manually processed, so I may have to wait until Monday to find out more. I'll also be working on the encoder/DC motor for focus, PWM fan, and air flow sensor integration with the controller board. For the focus motor, I'm waiting on the JST connectors to arrive, as I don't want to just cut the wires on the sample focus motor I have. For the fan, I don't have another fan laying around that uses the same PWM method as the fan I plan to use, and the fan I plan to use hasn't reached wholesalers yet. Also waiting for the air flow sensor to arrive. So looks to be a waiting game on all fronts for now. Time to clean up the mess I left after all the air flow testing.

 

[Patriot]

Wow, that touch screen set up would be amazing! I'm really enjoying these updates.:thumbsup:

 

[get-lit]

I need some more input regarding the touch screen because there's trade offs among the two choices I've narrowed it down to...

The easiest solution is a larger TFT/LCD screen because they are available with readily developed programming code mostly compatible with the programmer. This greatly reduces the amount of development.

Although it's the smallest of the TFT/LCD touchscreens, it may be a bit large for its purpose, but could display everything at once along with buttons for control, etc. It's 2.4" diagonal (1.5" wide x 1.87" long). The housing would be 2.18" wide x 2.55" long to fit the display board. This would be located at the top of the handle. I was initially concerned about having room to the side for the thumb to rest, but after sizing up the handle, I'm finding that the thumb rests over the index finger and not forward of the hand. I've also noticed that many products don't have any space forward of the grip for the thumb. The Sony EX1 for example. So I'm not at all concerned about thumb space with a large screen, and I don't think the size is too large.

I am concerned that the screen would have to be tilted upward toward the front by 20° in order to fit between the hand and the reflector without moving the hand rearward further from the center of gravity. The thumb has a more natural operating position flat or downward. It puts a bit more strain on the thumb using it in an upward position. I see that the Sony EX1 does have about a 10° upward tilt on its thumb controls, and that was a $6K camera when it came out, so a 20° upward tilt may or may not be an issue here.

The other choice is the small OLED touch screen I mentioned. I've received the docs and this one is most likely do-able. It's 1.3" diagonal (.58" wide x 1.16" long). OLED has the benefits of efficiency and much greater contrast and viewing angle with pretty much absolute black level, so the unlit portion would blend right in with the housing, whereas TFT/LCD are back-lit, not that this is pertinent. There's a saying I came across.. once you go OLED you never go back-lit. It's a just large enough for its purpose, a no BS clean finish. The width of the housing to fit the display would not be any wider than the grip itself. The downside is there would likely be more development coding to be done, but I have some time while waiting for funds for the other areas.

Preferences/suggestions?

EDIT: Actually, the small OLED would allow the thumb to be angled 9° downward, which would be the ideal position, even better than flat.

EDIT: The large screen can be positioned in the landscape orientation so that it doesn't have to be angled upward, so angle is no longer a concern with the large screen. Came across an OLED version of the large screen that can be fairly easily integrated as well, but it's pricey.

 

[BVH]

My preference is the larger OLED screen with all data shown at once plus buttons in landscape orientation. To me, in the scheme of things - this being a one of a kind design and custom produced beauty, the extra cost of the display is not a significant issue.

 

[get-lit]

There's a lot that goes into the transition from display to controller, including pin reduction from 40 com pins down to just a few, dedicated video processor and RAM, and programming functions.

Touch screens that include complete componentry and manageable documentation for that transition tend to be created as hobby projects, and as hobby projects they don't stay in production long.

The larger OLED display I mentioned is currently not available due to the independent hobbyist developer waiting for the next production run. This is not something I want to be dealing with in the long term.

Manufacturers of touch screens don't venture into development and implementation beyond just the displays, but I found one company that really has its act together... 4D Systems!

They put it all together in an amazing package that does everything, with the least com pins and resources consumed by the controller, and with super easy documentation to help select the right solution, as well as clearly outlined programming functions. They're solutions also include a mini amplified speaker for audio feedback, and SD Card for utilizing images in the display for things like custom graphic button icons. Finding the best touch screen solution has been a heck of a journey and this is a huge find that I'm very excited about.

At this point, I just need to pick the best size display to go with. The one on the left is a 2.4" 320x240 display. The one on the right is a 3.2" 400x240 display in a wide screen of the same height. The larger takes up the same space between the reflector and the handle, and just includes more horizontal display area, basically offering more room for displaying more functions at once. Both will do the job perfectly well, and I'd like to hear which size others would prefer before I decide which to go with.

Top Views...

EDIT: Again, these would both have enough room to fit between the reflector and handle without having to tilt the displays upward, so they will be flat with the handle for excellent thumb comfort.

 

[BVH]

The BIGGER one. It looks more proportionately pleasing.

 

[get-lit]

Agreed. I could also add a function to run a focus and strobe sequence, where the focus would zoom in and out on its own for a little automated light show in the clouds.

 

[get-lit]

I'm completely blown away by how well structured 4D Systems is. They have an easy to use interactive development program that can create practically any interactive graphic button/meter/object imaginable, all in full color, that communicate with each other, and with the controller board, without even touching the code on the display board. Of course I'll still create all of the code on the controller end, but creating the display functionality is a cakewalk. The resettable user password will actually be a real password entered with a pop-up graphic keyboard rather than an action sequence, in addition to a whole slew of great things to improve the user interface. 4D Systems is really amazing. Their solutions will reduce my user interface hardware and programming development time by well over 90% while improving the end result. I know this is off topic about search lights, but I'm so happy to be able to include a fully-integrated graphic touch display to this project without it becoming a daunting task. It's also nice to know the touch screen is no longer just a possibility.

 

[BVH]

This is really exciting! An Ultra-Super performing, handheld NightSword that performs better than an SX-16 NightSun with a full-color and full feature touchscreen for operation and feedback and with looks that will "Kill". I'd have never dreamed of such a light only a short time ago. Well, maybe that's a bit of an over-statement because dreaming about something like this is pretty easy to do. Can you do a nice customized splash screen upon bootup? Maybe showing the owners name/logo/or?

 

[get-lit]

Had that in mind already lol... animated logo, owner name, and serial.

EDIT: Would make it so that it can be enabled/disabled for faster turn on.

 

[get-lit]

Before creating the user interface, I would like to get some feedback about the planned functional outline...

[] indicates a button
|| indicates vertical graphic beam spread thumb slider in center of display
* indicates log on required

Primary Screen:
[TABLE="class: grid, width: 500"]
[TR]
[TD="align: center"][Strobe]* [/TD]
[TD="align: center"]|| [/TD]
[TD="align: center"][Lamp Power On/Off]* [/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: center"][Low Power]* [/TD]
[TD="align: center"]||
[/TD]
[TD="align: center"][Configuration]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: center"][Animate Beam]* [/TD]
[TD="align: center"]||
[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]Watts/RunTime/Fan%/AirFlow
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]


Configuration Screen:
[Log On/Log Off]
[Record Animate Beam Pattern]*
[Adjust Focus End-Stop Position]*
[Set Power Off Timer]*
[Enable/Disable Splash Screen]*
[Set Password]*
System Total Hours
Lamp Hours
[Lamp Reset]*
Number Lamp Resets
Serial Number
Last Air Flow Fault: Date/Time
Last Fan Fault: Date/Time


Full Screen Warnings:
Air Flow
Fan
Lamp Hour
Avoid Powering Off before Full Powerup


Full Screen Fault Alerts: (Lamp auto powered off to protect lamp & retro-reflector)
Air Flow
Fan


additional notes...
Touch screen to turn on display and activate user interface.
Only one log on required per session.
Session logs off with [Power Off] or [Log Off].
Full screen 0-9 numeric key pad password entry with large buttons for use with gloves.
From 0 to 12 characters available for setting password, 0 characters will disable log on checks.

 

[BVH]

This is fun stuff Thanks for giving us a chance for input.


On first review - After touching the screen to activate it, could the [Configuration] button text read "LogOn/Configuration" and then once the light is running read "LogOff/Configuration"?

Will the button [Lamp Power On/Off] read only "Lamp Power On" or "Lamp Power Off" depending on the current state of the lamp or will it be literal as you show above?

When one of the 3 features on the left of the screen is invoked, will the user press (toggle) the same button to stop the feature?

Could [Lamp Power On/Off] and [Configuration] button positions be reversed? Thinking is to touch screen to activate, then start at upper right and work down.

Will the Low Power setting be adjustable by the user within programmed limits? (see below for related question)

Is the slider just for use in configuration mode or will it regulate power to the lamp when running within programmed limits? (related to above)

Under FULL SCREEN WARNINGS and FULL SCREEN FAULT ALERTS - what is the technical difference between "Air Flow" and "Fan"? Could one or both be "OVERTEMP?

What will be the FULL POWERUP minimum time? Is this requirement similar to my GE MARC300 EZS lamps minimum recommended run time of 3 minutes to avoid a build up of solids within the chamber?

Will "Watts" be input or lamp?


Not related to programming - what will a user have to do if he/she forgets the password?

 

[get-lit]

On first review - After touching the screen to activate it, could the [Configuration] button text read "LogOn/Configuration" and then once the light is running read "LogOff/Configuration"?

First off, I just changed "Configuration" to "Settings". I originally wanted to leave that page accessible without logging in, in case I wanted to add another button in settings for a function in case of forgotten passwords, but that can be displayed if the password is entered incorrectly. See the *note about this below.

Will the button [Lamp Power On/Off] read only "Lamp Power On" or "Lamp Power Off" depending on the current state of the lamp or will it be literal as you show above?

Display only [Lamp Power On] or [Lamp Power Off] depending on the current state of the lamp. However I'm thinking I prefer [Ignite Lamp] and [Lamp Off].

When one of the 3 features on the left of the screen is invoked, will the user press (toggle) the same button to stop the feature?

Quick press for momentary, hold to enable until pressed again.

Could [Lamp Power On/Off] and [Configuration] button positions be reversed? Thinking is to touch screen to activate, then start at upper right and work down.

More often than not, [Lamp Power On] would be pressed first when reaching to use the light. Password is prompted if the password is set to more than 0 characters, otherwise the lamp is lit immdiately upon [Lamp Power On] without login required.

Will the Low Power setting be adjustable by the user within programmed limits? (see below for related question)

Low power is a static 70% of full power.

Is the slider just for use in configuration mode or will it regulate power to the lamp when running within programmed limits? (related to above)

The beam spread slider is only displayed on the "Primary Screen". [Settings] is its entirely own full screen.

Under FULL SCREEN WARNINGS and FULL SCREEN FAULT ALERTS - what is the technical difference between "Air Flow" and "Fan"? Could one or both be "OVERTEMP?

FAN FAULT ALERT is in case of fan faults, if the fan simply stops working for any reason.

AIR FLOW FAULT ALERT is in case the air flow is overly restricted even if the fan is working fine, in case of too much head wind pressure, or clogged air filter.

What will be the FULL POWERUP minimum time? Is this requirement similar to my GE MARC300 EZS lamps minimum recommended run time of 3 minutes to avoid a build up of solids within the chamber?

Simply until the lamp reaches full power. 90 seconds without retro-reflector, but less with retro-reflector. I've recorded down 60 seconds with retro-reflector. If the user operates the light under ten minutes a number of times, I could also add an additional prompt to recommend a >20 minute run to condition the electrodes. See below.

Will "Watts" be input or lamp?

I prefer to display lamp and ballast power. Upon ignition, I could make this text change from red, to yellow, to green, once full power is reached, so the user can know when it's best for the lamp to turn it off.

Not related to programming - what will a user have to do if he/she forgets the password?

I decided to make a separate post about this after this post.

I've also added two additional functions. Firstly the user can set the display brightness. Secondly, the user can set the screen saver brightness and screen saver delay.

Updated Functional Outline...
[] indicates a button
|| indicates vertical graphic beam spread thumb slider in center of display
* A touch anywhere on the screen prompts for login if not already logged in. Even the beam spread. This way, the user could place the lamp "fully in" to the flood position so that someone else couldn't take out the lamp. Let me know if this is preferred.

Primary Screen:
[TABLE="class: grid, width: 500"]
[TR]
[TD="align: center"][Strobe] [/TD]
[TD="align: center"]|| [/TD]
[TD="align: center"][Ignite Lamp]/[Lamp Off] [/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: center"][Low Power] [/TD]
[TD="align: center"]||
[/TD]
[TD="align: center"][Settings] [/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: center"][Animate Beam] [/TD]
[TD="align: center"]||
[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]Watts/RunTime/Fan%/AirFlow
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]


Configuration Screen:*
[Log Off]
[Record Animate Beam Pattern]
[Adjust Focus End-Stop Position]
[Enable Screen Color Auto Switch]/[Disable Screen Color Auto Switch]
[Set Lamp On Screen Contrast]
[Set Lamp Off Screen Contrast]
[Set Screen Saver Contrast]
[Set Screen Saver Timer]
[Set Power Off Timer]
[Enable Splash Screen]/[Disable Splash Screen]
[Set Password]
[Time Limit To Restore Master Password]
System Total Hours
Lamp Hours
[Lamp Reset]
Number Lamp Resets
[Suppress Lamp Usage Warnings]/[Enable Lamp Usage Warnings]
Serial Number
Last Air Flow Fault: Date/Time
Last Fan Fault: Date/Time


Full Screen Warnings:
Air Flow
Fan
Lamp Hour
Avoid Powering Off before Full Powerup (this can be suppressed)
>20 Minute Run Recommended to Condition the Electrodes (displayed if a number of <10 minute runs is recorded. This is not absolutely necessary, just recommended to get the full lamp life. This can be suppressed.)


Full Screen Fault Alerts: (Lamp auto powered off to protect lamp & retro-reflector)
Air Flow
Fan


additional notes...
Touch screen to turn on display and activate user interface.
Only one log on required per session.
Session logs off with [Lamp Off] or [Log Off].
System powers down if no touches for 5 minutes with lamp off.
Full screen 0-9 numeric key pad password entry with large buttons for use with gloves.
From 0 to 12 characters available for setting password, 0 characters will disable log on checks.

EDIT: Added function [Time Limit To Restore Master Password] to allow the user to determine how long the system will utilize their custom password before reverting back to the master password. This would allow the user to use their own simple password, or no protection at all, and eventually become maximally protected from use if forgotten or stolen.

 

[get-lit]

I've thought about various password recovery solutions, but I think the simplest is for each light to have its own master unlock password given on paper to be stored safely. If that too is lost, I could make the password function display the serial number with instructions to contact me and I would then verify the contact person as the owner and provide them the master unlock password. Owners who sell the light used should inform me so that I could update owner registration, and request the new owner's acknowledgement of safe usage. I want to take every effort to make the light useless if stolen, for safety reasons, and to catch a thief if they attempt to retrieve the master unlock password. This would be felony theft territory.

 

[TEEJ]

Given you being mortal, etc, you might want to consider a back-up plan in case they try to contact you to retrieve the master code, etc...and you're away on vacation, or, in a hospital with mad cow disease, or, a cemetery because the hospital was not that good at treating mad cow disease, etc.

You mentioned a cd card reader option IIRC, that would be a cool way to allow updates and even further personalization (icons, settings, etc)

If stolen (The fear of which drove some of your concerns...) can the light be "hot wired" to work w/o knowing codes, etc?

Was the initial code just to prevent some bozo from turning your light on and exploding his/bystander's retinas? Did it evolve to cover theft issues?

Typically, for commercial use, where there may be several users...a password for equipment that require one ends up taped to the device or its box, etc. A hobbyist, etc of course would potentially just store it somewhere safe as planned....but if its not easy to remember, they'd need to bring it with them when planning to use the light, etc.

An "easy code" setting to allow the owner to make it (Temporarily) hard for someone else to accidentally turn it on w/o their permission/supervision, but more convenient/easier to power up, and another (Default) setting for longer term storage, transport, etc, where theft concerns might be more relevant...might reduce the "PITA Factor" if entering a code to use it every time its turned on is considered too burdensome.

If going for full on protection, a transmitter GPS chip that sends out a distress signal if stolen, which could be tracked, would help in recovery. If it had that, the option to activate it so if lost in use, say search and rescue, etc...would mean you could find where it fell off the truck or out of the helicopter, accidentally put into the wrong truck or chopper, etc.

:D

 

[get-lit]

I may have over-stated my intention when I said "take every effort to make the light useless if stolen". There are practical compromises. To really make it inoperable when stolen, the controller board would have to be physically encapsulated with the ballast to prevent direct wiring of the ballast between the control board. Encapsulating them together could be done, but that would prevent mailing me the controller for updates. The whole light would have to be mailed instead. Even then, it would be possible for a savvy programmer to program the controller to send a signal to each controller pin until it finds which turns on the ballast. Still wouldn't have the rest of the controls such as beam spread, and fan control but those could be physically rewired to function at least in a crude manner. To fully prevent usage once stolen, even from the savvy programmer, I would have to also encapsulate access to the programming pins to the controller board so that it can no longer be updated at all, not even if we wanted to. It comes down to where we want to be in the compromise for safety and theft deterrence.

My bicycle has a GPS with a cell phone SIM card in the frame that I can call and locate with google maps if stolen. Can also listen in very well over my phone on the people that stole it without them having a clue. It cost me under $120 to set it up and it gives me piece of mind, with less concern about theft while I enjoy using it. Don't really want to take it that far with the light. The size of the module is insignificant on a bike, but on the light it would be like having to fit another ignitor on board.

I'm not too worried about mad cow disease, I'm fairly certain I have a super-hybrid form of it driving me through this project. My back-up plan in case my disease consumes the rest my mind would be to have a USB drive sent to someone that would be willing to take on the responsibility.

The card reader doesn't have provisions for storing code, just audio/visual content. Could be used to log activity but I don't see a need for that either.

Yes the initial purpose of the password was to prevent others from hurting themselves or other people and objects, particularly to protect children and curious sneaky teenagers in the family. That's 99% of the purpose. I saw self-obsoletion in theft just as an added benefit.

Providing the ability for the user to determine how many characters they want for a password, or none at all, gives the flexibility to assign the degree of "protection" versus "ease of use" as they see fit at the time. So if they want to put it in long term storage as you say, they could assign a 12 character password, and then at another time of occasional use, assign a three character password for more convenience, and for a time when they know they're going to be using it a lot over say a weekend, they could assign no characters to disable protection completely. Just hit the ignite button and the lamp is struck.

I could also add in a user-adjustable time limit for no protection, so that if it does get stolen while protection is disabled, it would re-enable itself after that set period of time. I think I'm going to go ahead and include this in the plan.

EDIT: I've updated the outlined plan to include this.

These protections are not just for knowing its no good to a thief, but I feel they are very much necessary to prevent something like this from getting into the hands of thieves. Someone who spend thousands on something they're really into have a propensity to be responsible with it, but I wouldn't want the likes of thieves running around with this. It wouldn't be good for the hobby. If we don't take steps to keep it safe ourselves, the law will eventually step in and say it can't be trusted with any of us.

 

[BVH]

I like all the features of the latest iteration! Do you have any expertise in the mold-making arena? I have always thought that making the Carbon Fiber case would be the most complicated part of the design and manufacturing process - probably because I have zero experience in this area. It seems daunting to me.

 

[get-lit]

I've studied the mold making process and requirements thoroughly over the past few years and it's actually the most exciting process for me to begin. There's more than enough video tutorials out there to take the mystery out of it all. Fibre Glast has several concise multi-part video series to get a good foundation. Once the mold is made, and set-up is ready, it's super fun and easy to make parts. I can't wait. What's holding me back at this point is funds for the slip roll machine needed to make the prototype intake ducting to test with to ensure the housing will be the size needed before having the molds made.

Most tutorials begin with making a plug which is the male shape of the part, from which the two female mold halves are formed around. The molds are then used to make the part halves which are then joined together for each final part. Since the mold is made from the same strength material as the parts, the molds last for only so many parts. A step up is having the molds CNC machined out of aluminum blocks. This would skip the plug-making process and result in slightly more accurate parts being from a 1st generation form, with a mold that will last indefinitely. I will have the molds CNC machined by a local that just wants to put his machine to some fun work.

Once again I'm very thankful that funds have delayed the process, otherwise the molds would have been made already, with no provision for a touch display. If I had the all the money needed to complete everything from the get go, the end result would not have been nearly as refined because the time kept giving me new areas to explore.

 

[get-lit]

Here's a few videos to show just how easy it is to set up the 4D Systems touch display controls using their visual construction program, Visi-Genie, without any direct programming. (of course there's still extensive programming to be done on the controller board to integrate with the touch display and all connected devices.
4D Systems Visi-Genie Video
4D Systems Visi-Genie Video

I'm finding in the documentation that the company did make OLED touch displays which they don't advertise, but not in the wide-screen format which we decided we prefer. And the other downside is that they are more than double the price, $226 vs $80 each, but the $226 price was from 2009. I'm inquiring with the company about any OLED touch displays that might be available of upcoming soon. The cost would have come down a lot from 2009. The contrast is amazing...
OLED Touch

Still, the TFT contrast in the first two videos is nice.

 

[get-lit]

I've created the layout of the primary screen of the display...

With the light.. (top view)