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Recently my sc5c had issues crop up that I didn't notice until a few days after I got it. I reported it a couple pages back. I had to send it back for a replacement. Hopefully yours works fine, because I don't think they'd like a returned light that's been filed like that.
 
gurdygurds said:
Clear lens….so I can see into its soul. 😍
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Congratulations! That Zebra has a beautiful Golden Eye. Very happy for you
 
Just curious as to whether or not there's anyone else like me that just grabs his ZL and uses it, as is, straight out of the box, without fretting too much about beam, tint and build?

Each of my ZLs have a variation of one type or another, but when in use, you'd never know it.
 
this_is_nascar said:
Just curious as to whether or not there's anyone else like me that just grabs his ZL and uses it, as is, straight out of the box, without fretting too much about beam, tint and build?

Each of my ZLs have a variation of one type or another, but when in use, you'd never know it.
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I keep mine stock. I think they are pretty much all decent as is and no need to change anything.
 
Stock here as well, aside from a little file work to make clipless carry a little more comfy. The two little C LE models I got recently have a really nice tint so no wishing for different led either. I have an SC52w en route from Gunga that I wanted just because I love the older gray anodizing and body style and will keep that stock as well.
 
I see a lot of people have their Zebras modified with different LEDs. To me I’m not all about removing potting and factory components, same goes with any other light. I like my lights to be stock from manufacturers. It kills me when I see someone modify a McGizmo. Defeats the purpose of it being a unique and genuine light IMO
 
The sc53 series is documented to take 3.7 volt 14500 batteries. The only thing you need to do is click the switch several times with the tailcap off when changing voltages from 1.5 volts to 3.7 volts. Otherwise they seem to run fine on 14500 batteries according to others. I have run my sc53c on a 14500. It seems to work just fine. But I dont do it regularly so cant report on the overall long term effrcts personally. There's a thread about it somewhere on here. Note, the sc5 series does not do this. They are AA only no matter what.
Edit: still an at your own risk type thing
 
Repsol600rr said:
The sc53 series is documented to take 3.7 volt 14500 batteries. The only thing you need to do is click the switch several times with the tailcap off when changing voltages from 1.5 volts to 3.7 volts. Otherwise they seem to run fine on 14500 batteries according to others. I have run my sc53c on a 14500. It seems to work just fine. But I dont do it regularly so cant report on the overall long term effrcts personally. There's a thread about it somewhere on here. Note, the sc5 series does not do this. They are AA only no matter what.
Edit: still an at your own risk type thing
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Yeah I ran my sc53 with a 14500. You get 60 seconds of turbo until step down. When going back to a regular AA you need to hold the switch when tightening the tailcap

Just wish they could actually implement it where you could get longer runtimes when using a 3.7v
 
Yeah that was the same as the 52 series with the timed step down. It would have been nice if they had used PID to keep it higher longer, with corresponding lower runtimes. But I'm sure that was the compromise to also run the lower voltage batteries.
 
Repsol600rr said:
Yeah that was the same as the 52 series with the timed step down. It would have been nice if they had used PID to keep it higher longer, with corresponding lower runtimes. But I'm sure that was the compromise to also run the lower voltage batteries.
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True. I’m really just glad Eneloops are a thing I’d probably just choose to run those anyway regardless
 
Eneloops for the win! Also think it would be amazing if they made a 2xaa light. Been thinking hard about picking up an 18650 Zebra but I'm not there yet.
 
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