The Official Zebralight Thread

[KITROBASKIN]

Yes because volts times amps equals watts. So the amount of power is similar with more amps and less voltage in the NiMH...

 

[chillinn]

Yes because volts times amps equals watts. So the amount of power is similar with more amps and less voltage in the NiMH...

I suspect that if a direct drive light that supports both chemistries is tested, such as a Lumintop, Streamlight or a Coast, the exact opposite will be true, iow the more volts, the more amps. Zebralight SC53w is a descendent of the SC52 L2, note the supported voltages of the SC52F L2, so the driver is smart enough to recognize what chemistry is installed and adjusts amps accordingly to prevent frying.

 

[Deleted member 763418]

2.45A @ 1.2V and 1.7A @ 4V


BLF thread where this driver was measured: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/efficiency-measurements-of-a-few-drivers/68528

Uses an Analog Devices LTC3539-2 boost converter

Datasheet: https://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/35392fc.pdf

If Vin > Vout then it goes into a pass-through mode.

Interesting tidbit I found in the datasheet: the minimum startup voltage of the boost IC was 700mV.

 

[chillinn]

I just measured the current draw of my Streamlight 2L-X, first using an 18650 (~4V), then using a pair of CR123A cells (~6V)); a voltage increase of ~50%. The current drawn by the light (as measured in amps) decreased by >30%.

@ tailcap
SC52w L2 - H1 on 14500 - 1.72 A
H53w - H1 on 14500 - 1.76 A

Getting inconsistent results with Eneloop. The highest I measured was 2.33 A on the SC52.

Just got finished measuring amps on my SC53W using fully charged Eneloop and 3a vapecell.
Vapecell 1.8 amps on H1 Ennloop 2.56 amps. Higher voltage results in a lower amp draw. I have been an electrician for 40 years and this has always been the case with a fixed load.

2.45A @ 1.2V and 1.7A @ 4V
...
Uses an Analog Devices LTC3539-2 boost converter
...
If Vin > Vout then it goes into a pass-through mode.

Interesting tidbit I found in the datasheet: the minimum startup voltage of the boost IC was 700mV.

I just want to thank aznsx, The Whispering Gallery, Christoph and quahog for the data. Much obliged, partners.

 

[ilikeguns40]

Got my SC53c back from Bob_McBob. New emitter swap SW45K D220. Beautiful!

 

[wolfgaze]

Anyone own the H53Fc model with the Samsung LH351D emitter? Thoughts/feedback?

(Looking for a AA headlamp and I'm partial to warmer, high CRI, flood beams)

 

[Fespe]

Anyone own the H53Fc model with the Samsung LH351D emitter? Thoughts/feedback?

(Looking for a AA headlamp and I'm partial to warmer, high CRI, flood beams)

I have the H53c with the same led and the tint it's similar to the sc64c le, slightly warmer, really good light. Usually I use DC fix and for me it's a pretty nice results. Don't seem to lose lumen only of course the distance in reach of the beam.

 

[jon_slider]

AA Zebra Killed by LiIon:

 

[chillinn]

AA Zebra Killed by LiIon:

Interesting. H53c and SC53c have the exact same specifications, so they obviously must use the same driver. I wonder if the driver frying on Liion is the reason Liion isn't supported. No way, LOL. That's crazy. It was probably a cosmic ray.

 

[jon_slider]

It was probably a cosmic ray.

yeah, other people Bring AA Zebra to a LiIon Hunt and manage to get away without a scratch:


similar to some people who bring a Lumintop AAA Tool to a LiIon hunt, and escape unscathed..

YMMV

Lumenitis, Turboitis, and LiIonitis are persistent Viruses... ;-)

 

[chillinn]

What frustates me is, as of yet, no one has been able to say what the lumen output is on Liion with any AA Zebralight, nor if the output on H1 is regulated, as it is with Eneloop, or if it steps down, etc. There are more than just a few running Liion in their ZL, and yet reports are nothing more than, "omg it workz! LOLZ," and "it's brighter." I'll leave my SC5c on all night long with an Eneloop during consecutive nights for weeks at a time. Sometimes I discover the next evening I forgot about it running, and just leave it on for another night without touching it. Any Liion users doing that? No one knows, but I suspect none leave it running on Liion for more than a few minutes.

Also, apparently it is just me and no one else, but what I have discovered is that the deeper into the night it is and the darker it is, the less light is needed. By midnight, anything more than 25 lumens is painful unless I need to illumniate an entire room, in which case 140Lm or so is more than enough. Thus, unless S&R, which no one would use an AA ZL for, the brightest lights, 1200+Lm, are most useful during the day, or just after sundown when there is still plenty of ambient light from the sky, for killing shadows when dark adaptation is nonexistant. Who is blasting 700Lm inside their home in the middle of the night, and why?

 

[gurdygurds]

I have an H53c Le. Pretty much all I use right now. I sold an Sc5c le which I wish I held onto. Not because I need it, but because I really liked the chunky knurled body and in handheld use a regular flashlight feels better in hand than a right angle light.

 

[ilikeguns40]

So I just tried a AAA eneloop inside my SC53 AA and it works perfectly. Nice to know a AAA can be used as a backup if needed

 

[chillinn]

I really liked the chunky knurled body

Me too. I think it is a much more attractive and utilitarian design than the frou-frou wavy designs in the first and third generations. Reddit rumor is Zebralight has no plans to offer any more AA in that SC5x body. I really hope that's BS.

 

[aznsx]

What frustates me is, as of yet, no one has been able to say what the lumen output is on Liion with any AA Zebralight, nor if the output on H1 is regulated, as it is with Eneloop, or if it steps down, etc. There are more than just a few running Liion in their ZL, and yet reports are nothing more than, "omg it workz! LOLZ," and "it's brighter."

I wouldn't know a Zebralight from a fire hydrant, but if, as it sounds like to me, you're talking about not knowing the lumen output of a given light using a cell/batt which is not supported by the manufacturer, I have a theory: It's possible that most who are smart enough to know how to measure the output are also smart enough to not use cells/batts which are not supported by the manufacturer because they'd rather not have to worry about which day their light will die when they need it most as a result of having done that. Just a theory...

Who is blasting 700Lm inside their home in the middle of the night, and why?

I have an answer (not theory) for that one too. They probably aren't, because they may be as I was for ~a decade, and many others are. In the 'middle of the night', I was halfway through my 18:00 to 06:00 shift in a dangerous and poorly-lit factory where I required a lot of lumens of supplemental lighting to do my job and do it safely. I needed every lumen I could get.

I think you'll find that the lighting preferences you speak of are based on your personal 'body clock', and have nothing to do with the actual TOD clock. Keep in mind that while you're asleep (whatever time that may be), someone else is working so you can sleep:)

 

[chillinn]

most who are smart enough to know how to measure the output are also smart enough to not use cells/batts which are not supported by the manufacturer

LOL

I was halfway through my 18:00 to 06:00 shift in a dangerous and poorly-lit factory where I required a lot of lumens of supplemental lighting to do my job and do it safely. I needed every lumen I could get.

Fair enough. Certainly there are good reasons for lots of lumens in the wee hours. I doubt working that shift you'd ever develop dark adaptation, even if poorly lit, which is all the more reason for extra lumens.

 

[gurdygurds]

I wouldn't know a Zebralight from a fire hydrant, but if, as it sounds like to me, you're talking about not knowing the lumen output of a given light using a cell/batt which is not supported by the manufacturer, I have a theory: It's possible that most who are smart enough to know how to measure the output are also smart enough to not use cells/batts which are not supported by the manufacturer because they'd rather not have to worry about which day their light will die when they need it most as a result of having done that. Just a theory...



I have an answer (not theory) for that one too. They probably aren't, because they may be as I was for ~a decade, and many others are. In the 'middle of the night', I was halfway through my 18:00 to 06:00 shift in a dangerous and poorly-lit factory where I required a lot of lumens of supplemental lighting to do my job and do it safely. I needed every lumen I could get.

I think you'll find that the lighting preferences you speak of are based on your personal 'body clock', and have nothing to do with the actual TOD clock. Keep in mind that while you're asleep (whatever time that may be), someone else is working so you can sleep:)

Actually, Zebralights look like fire hydrants….

 

[knucklegary]

CCT 2700k

 

[SvelteSyntax]

What frustates me is, as of yet, no one has been able to say what the lumen output is on Liion with any AA Zebralight, nor if the output on H1 is regulated, as it is with Eneloop, or if it steps down, etc. There are more than just a few running Liion in their ZL, and yet reports are nothing more than, "omg it workz! LOLZ," and "it's brighter." I'll leave my SC5c on all night long with an Eneloop during consecutive nights for weeks at a time. Sometimes I discover the next evening I forgot about it running, and just leave it on for another night without touching it. Any Liion users doing that? No one knows, but I suspect none leave it running on Liion for more than a few minutes.

I don’t have a lumen tube or any way to take a calibrated measurement, but have compared Opple readings on my SC5c II LE on liion vs Eneloop. Pitch black closet, identical positioning lens 18” from Opple sensor, taken 5 seconds after turn on from a room temp host - readings at H1 on fully charged batteries with low cycles.

18068 Lux on Sofirn 900mAh 14500
15822 Lux on Eneloop (non Pro)

~12.5% additional output on liion. I’m as curious about the runtime as you are, but any measurements I take would be even less accurate than my Opple data. Anecdotally it seems to hold brightness longer on the liion.

All my Vapcell H10 button tops are 1-2mm too long to allow the tailcap to close, have ordered some F12’s to try. If those work I think they’re ideal for my use, considerably more stored energy than an Eneloop with the option for a little more output if desired.

 

[OkestEngineer]

The SC5C has pins in the tail cap rather than a single spring. I found that it did not like my Vapcell V28 NiMH because it didn’t make good contact. By contrast, my H53C uses the V28 without a problem because of the spring in the tailcap I think.

I tried the H10 in the SC5C without luck a while back. I’m too chicken to try again.