Finally have the pleasure of seeing a Nichia 219C hi CRI. It definitely adds more depth and texture to colors, aside from the more accurate color rendition. Then again, if not placed side by side, I'd have a hard time picking an outright winner for general use between it and a nice 4000K XPL HI. The former is not mind-blowingly superior and the latter pretty damn good enough.
The Tint Snob Thread
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archimedes
Flashaholic
I haven't seen any N219C yet ... thanks for your thoughts on these.
iamlucky13
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I bought a Thrunite Ti5T NW recently, with an XP-L in roughly the 4000K range.
The tint varied across the width of the beam, which made the green tint fairly easy to notice even without white wall hunting or doing side-by-side comparisons. I think even if more consistent, the greenish hue would still be noticeable. I definitely prefer my high CRI lights.
It still was a useful light, and quite bright for a 1xAA, in addition to the polished titanium being very nice looking, so I was going to keep it. Unfortunately, mine had a defective switch. I returned it and am still deciding whether to get another or consider something higher CRI.
Actually, I'm tempted to buy another and try my first emitter reflow swap.
iamlucky13
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I had a long day at work yesterday. Having lots of light didn't fit my mood.
So for kicks, when I went to take a shower before bed, I left the bathroom lights off and stood my Yuji-modded Sunwayman R01a up in the corner of the shower - it's the same emitter Leanburn has in his penlight.
The halogen-like, high-CRI warmth and sense of quiet that comes from only having 10 lumens in the room was very relaxing.
I've had these emitters for several months now, and they still mesmerize me sometimes with their cozy glow.
(images shown at 5200K, 5200K, and 4000K camera white balances respectively to better represent how I perceive them side-by-side).
So for kicks, when I went to take a shower before bed, I left the bathroom lights off and stood my Yuji-modded Sunwayman R01a up in the corner of the shower - it's the same emitter Leanburn has in his penlight.
The halogen-like, high-CRI warmth and sense of quiet that comes from only having 10 lumens in the room was very relaxing.
I've had these emitters for several months now, and they still mesmerize me sometimes with their cozy glow.
(images shown at 5200K, 5200K, and 4000K camera white balances respectively to better represent how I perceive them side-by-side).
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jon_slider
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archimedes
Flashaholic
Better maybe if I don't say that looks ... :green: (lol)
archimedes
Flashaholic
Those look much nicer ... especially that 219C - R9050 - 4000K
Yeah the domed emitters tend to have more tint shift in reflectors.
I've not had luck with NW emitters from Manker or Thrunite. Puke green from both.
I've stopped comparing tints side by side, because the adjustment the eyes and a camera make distorts one's perception and appearance, respectively, of the actual tint when in use by itself. For example, the 219C hi cri sample that I saw looked very pleasing by itself, but noticeably green when next to the XPL HI 4000k.
The 219C hi cri is a gateway tint. I don't think anything less will do for me from now on. I've heard good things about the YUJI hi cri emitters. Hope to see them in flashlights soon.
The 219C hi cri is a gateway tint. I don't think anything less will do for me from now on. I've heard good things about the YUJI hi cri emitters. Hope to see them in flashlights soon.
I think the Manker LAD also has the R9050 4000K. Thing is, tint beamshots are really hard. Manually setting the white balance isn't enough (and it's all I did for mine - a claimed 6500K on my Nexus 5, but I'm sure that's inaccurate) because cameras mess with the colors in automatic post-processing. In this one, everything looks a little redder than it should. The 5000K has a hint of green in it.
Oddly, the readily-available 80 CRI 5000K 219Cs don't have this hint of green. On a white wall, they look better than the 90 CRI in the same color temperature. Illuminating most objects, on the other hand, they don't. I don't currently have one in a light, though I'm quite fond of them. I tend to like 5000K in general - it's similar to the midday sun, and the 80 CRI 219C is a very nice version of 5000K.
Oddly, the readily-available 80 CRI 5000K 219Cs don't have this hint of green. On a white wall, they look better than the 90 CRI in the same color temperature. Illuminating most objects, on the other hand, they don't. I don't currently have one in a light, though I'm quite fond of them. I tend to like 5000K in general - it's similar to the midday sun, and the 80 CRI 219C is a very nice version of 5000K.
markr6
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I agree. Even when shooting raw and not making any adjustments, I find many look the same, or completely different from what my eyes see. Photos are pretty useless to me anymore, along with feedback from people that say 6500K is "pure white!" It's just never the case. They probably had no reference point, they were drinking, or just don't really have much experience with different CCT and tints. Sure, a cheap 6500K may look white without any reference or after sitting by a bonfire, but I know in my mind that it's a pretty crappy blue light in reality.
I've been able to get some OK beamshots with my phone using a manual camera app, shooting in RAW and post-processing manually. I don't actually know much about photography and post-processing, but I know I can get what's on my screen to look pretty close to the light I'm shining on the wall with a bit of tweaking.
It won't necessarily look the same on your screen though, because my screen isn't color-calibrated, and yours probably isn't either.
Beamshots showing tint are hard.
The best option, I think is to read reviews with photometrics by maukka. Unfortunately, a lot of his tests are buried within threads and there isn't an index to them. I've been thinking of making an index to enthusiast tests and reviews.
It won't necessarily look the same on your screen though, because my screen isn't color-calibrated, and yours probably isn't either.
Beamshots showing tint are hard.
The best option, I think is to read reviews with photometrics by maukka. Unfortunately, a lot of his tests are buried within threads and there isn't an index to them. I've been thinking of making an index to enthusiast tests and reviews.
BugoutBoys
Enlightened
I think I have definitely come to appreciate warmer tints for their ease on the eyes, but I can't picture myself ever carrying a neutral or warm white as my favorite flashlight. Having perfect white just seems best. Maybe that's the cinematographer coming out of me? Trying to have a perfect "White balance?"
I also can't stand lights that have one color in the hotspot, then a different tinted corona, then different tinted spill. The SF Fury would have been even more incredible but on mine the hotspot was cool white. The corona was green, then the spill was even more cool white.
The new Aviator is wonderful because it's one single tint throughout the entire beam.
I also can't stand lights that have one color in the hotspot, then a different tinted corona, then different tinted spill. The SF Fury would have been even more incredible but on mine the hotspot was cool white. The corona was green, then the spill was even more cool white.
The new Aviator is wonderful because it's one single tint throughout the entire beam.
I consider about 5000K a perfect white, neither yellow nor blue and close to direct sunlight at midday. I include 5000K in "neutral", though most factory neutral white tints are a little warmer. It's common to find the MT-G2 in 5000K, e.g. the Klarus G30.
I like the MT-G2 pretty well. Unfortunately, 90 CRI only comes in fairly warm tints and 80 CRI, while available in 5000K doesn't actually seem to be in stock to purchase anywhere. Illuminating objects with the MT-G2 and 80 CRI 319A next to each other, the difference is visible.
BugoutBoys
Enlightened
So why do lower k values usually have higher CRI? Daylight is 6500k and isn't that the best color rendering?
Random Dan
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The CRI of a given light source is a metric of how well it renders colors compared to a blackbody radiator of the same color temp. So the CRI of a 3000k LED is measured relative to the blackbody line at 3000k, while a 6000k LED would be compared with the blackbody line at 6000k.
As to why it is easier for LED to hit higher CRI at lower CCT, that I do not know. Something to do with the phosphors.
BugoutBoys
Enlightened
That was extremely informing, thank you! That made a lot of sense.
