HDS Systems EDC # 19

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Hogokansatsukan

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I will probably do this when the really right emitter comes along...lol.

I see your "lol" there. Yep. I'm with you... sort of. It's an elusive game we play. Now, I did find mine in the High Noon... unless I can get that same temp with 100 CRI, then...
For me, the High Noon is neutral. Why? It is the closest thing to come to the absolute neutral point on the sphere. There is a point on the integrating sphere that shows absolute neutral energy on the black body line. This is the closest to it I have seen.
Then there is preference and taste, which is different for everyone, which directly correlates to use. When I'm inside at night, I like warmer tints, and I'll describe "warmer" as being anything below 5700k. My 3 O'Clock High at 5000k, I consider warm. I love this light, but it doesn't fill my need for a light in the leather shop in Tucson, AZ. I would probably really like a 2700k, 3000k, 3500k high CRI as well, and even the 4500k. I like warm lights, but it depends what I'm going to be doing with them. I do NOT like cool lights. They just make me feel like I should be bending over and coughing. I made the mistake of selling my 4000k high CRI... and rather with I had kept it, but oh well. I have plans (just like the well laid plans of mice and men, but I identify as a rutabaga so it doesn't apply to me). It really all depends on what you are doing with the light and what one's preferences are. It's why there are red lights in strip clubs (so I've been told... never actually been in one... fine... I was in college and it was a stag party and I hardly remember what I saw there and was probably too young to even know what it/they was/were.) as it hides blemishes on skin. Low lighting, colored lighting and alcohol are great beauty aids.
So, I guess I'm at this point where if it isn't my High Noon being used, I kind of feel like I'm cheating on the color rendition... deceiving my eyes on what I'm actually seeing if that makes any sense. May not be rational, but I never said I was. To me the other tints are "fun" or "special purpose" like the forensic blue light Henry puts out (my GOD MAN! Don't, and I mean DON'T go into a hotel bathroom with that light! You will end up trying to use the toilet from the bed... which is what it looks like everyone else has been doing!)

Well, so there's my take on the perfect emitter... perfect for me anyway. Would be neat if it went to 5000 lumens, but I don't use much over 100 anyway and probably am not even going over 30 most of the time, even with my tired old eyes.
 

recDNA

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I'm so happy with my 3 o'clock high I wouldn't consider another HDS unless a thrower is built. It will never happen because you'd need to boost an XP-E to 1.5 amps to get any kind of throw out of it.
 

F89

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Not giving anyone grief, please don't take it that way. How about swapping your own emitters, or having it done for you? A "run of one?" There are plenty of folks who can do it. (I'm not one of them.) A recalibration from Henry, and you're good to go... I missed the 4000k runs a couple years ago, but managed to score one Vinh had modded. Sent it to Henry to have it changed from a tactical Rotary to EDC Rotary, and Mrs. Scout has used it since.

That's how I got mine done, did it myself. Granted it's not for everyone but I'm not any kind of electrician I'm just handy and it's really not a huge feat.
I don't really see much point in sending it in for calibration as all that will do is slightly raise or lower the output of the driver. I'm not really worried if a once 200 rated is now a 210 or a 190 etc. Mine works great.
 

F89

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I'm so happy with my 3 o'clock high I wouldn't consider another HDS unless a thrower is built. It will never happen because you'd need to boost an XP-E to 1.5 amps to get any kind of throw out of it.

Some kind of enlarged bezel/reflector replacement that simply replaced the standard one would work well, I like the XPE2 and think with such a bezel and standard drive current making it close to a 200 would work great.
 

F89

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the nichia 219b sw45 9080 would be nice , even a Yuji 5600k.

Bottom line is that the sw45k R9080 is the best high CRI I've seen in an HDS. It makes my high noon look greeny blue and washed out, granted the sw45k looks a bit pink in comparison. Both will appear white in independent use but the sw45k CRI colour rendition is clearly superior.
I'm not saying the other models/LEDs are bad, and I do still like them, but the sw45k is awesome.
 
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Johnnyh

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Bottom line is that the sw45k R9080 is the best high CRI I've seen in an HDS. It makes my high noon look greeny blue and washed out, granted the sw45k looks a bit pink in comparison. Both will appear white in independent use but the sw45k CRI colour rendition is clearly superior.
I'm not saying the other models/LEDs are bad, and I do still like them, but the sw45k is awesome.

All this talk has spurred me to act on my desire to put a sw45 in one of my HDS lights. I found a couple for sale on another forum and they're on the way. Regardless of how many step-by-step instructions I've studied on YouTube, I have no intention of doing this myself. So...any pointers toward a competent HDS modder would be greatly appreciated!
BTW, I really want to learn how to do this but don't want to practice on a $300 light, if you know what I mean.)
 

F89

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YES! (the broken record continues.)

I don't really see the relevance of the 18350 tube.
From HKJs tests, as an example, the AW IMR 800mAh 18350 gives 0.748Ah @ 1A test current vs the Fenix ARB-L16 700mAh 16340 giving 0.718 at the same current.
A 30mAh hour gain in this example which is next to irrelevant including that the Fenix is protected as an extra.
I'll stick with the CR123 compatibility and Fenix 16340 cells.
 

Lithium466

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I don't really see the relevance of the 18350 tube.
From HKJs tests, as an example, the AW IMR 800mAh 18350 gives 0.748Ah @ 1A test current vs the Fenix ARB-L16 700mAh 16340 giving 0.718 at the same current.
A 30mAh hour gain in this example which is next to irrelevant including that the Fenix is protected as an extra.
I'll stick with the CR123 compatibility and Fenix 16340 cells.
That was before the new 18650 batteries

http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Aspire INR18350 1300mAh (Black-yellow) UK.html
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Keeppower 18350 1200mAh P1835C2 (Black) 2017 UK.html

now we just need the 16340 to improve, cause basically in lije ten years, no real improvement in capacity...

As for CR123A compatibility, it's resolved by some manufacturers by a plastic sleeve.
 

F89

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That was before the new 18650 batteries

http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Aspire INR18350 1300mAh (Black-yellow) UK.html
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Keeppower 18350 1200mAh P1835C2 (Black) 2017 UK.html

now we just need the 16340 to improve, cause basically in lije ten years, no real improvement in capacity...

As for CR123A compatibility, it's resolved by some manufacturers by a plastic sleeve.

I was aware of the sleeve factor but I'm definitely behind the times with 18350 batteries.
Still for some reason I'm not interested in an 18350 tube, if I want more capacity I'll go for my 18650 tube or carry a spare cell. Nonetheless those cells you listed have got some impressive capacity so it makes more sense to me now why there may be interest.
 
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Lithium466

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The advantage of 18350 with the HDS is keeping the current form factor (form factor I like), whith a 200-300mAh increase, which is not insignificant in term of autonomy. Of course if I want more runtime, I have the 18650 option, or spare batteries haha, but it's more bulky.
Well, I'd like a 18350 tube for the « free » runtime increase, without changing form factor, accessories (holster) and keeping compatibility with CR123A or 16340 (even without sleeve, the springs are strong enough for a momentary use just in case). So, what's not to love?

(but yes, I'd rather have HDS focus on something else)
 

F89

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The advantage of 18350 with the HDS is keeping the current form factor (form factor I like), whith a 200-300mAh increase, which is not insignificant in term of autonomy. Of course if I want more runtime, I have the 18650 option, or spare batteries haha, but it's more bulky.
Well, I'd like a 18350 tube for the « free » runtime increase, without changing form factor, accessories (holster) and keeping compatibility with CR123A or 16340 (even without sleeve, the springs are strong enough for a momentary use just in case). So, what's not to love?

(but yes, I'd rather have HDS focus on something else)

Yes I can understand a 2 to 300mAh increase is a decent little boost.
I really like the 16340 tube form factor too but after getting the 18650 tube I found I like it even more than I thought I would and with it I'm getting more than 3000mAh so it's a decent trade off.
I'm not a holster guy so a change of form isn't an issue.
All the same I'll remain happy with my 700mAh 16340 and 1400mAh CR123 primary batteries plus the 18650 tube.
 

kaichu dento

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The advantage of 18350 with the HDS is keeping the current form factor (form factor I like), whith a 200-300mAh increase, which is not insignificant in term of autonomy. Of course if I want more runtime, I have the 18650 option, or spare batteries haha, but it's more bulky.
Well, I'd like a 18350 tube for the « free » runtime increase, without changing form factor, accessories (holster) and keeping compatibility with CR123A or 16340 (even without sleeve, the springs are strong enough for a momentary use just in case). So, what's not to love?

(but yes, I'd rather have HDS focus on something else)
It's been almost a year since Henry told me over lunch that he is definitely going to change the light tubes over to 18350 capability, but not sure exactly when it will be. I'll wait and let it happen when it happens, but I'm definitely looking forward to any capacity increase that doesn't make the light any larger.
 

AZPops

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The advantage of 18350 with the HDS is keeping the current form factor (form factor I like), whith a 200-300mAh increase, which is not insignificant in term of autonomy. Of course if I want more runtime, I have the 18650 option, or spare batteries haha, but it's more bulky.
Well, I'd like a 18350 tube for the « free » runtime increase, without changing form factor, accessories (holster) and keeping compatibility with CR123A or 16340 (even without sleeve, the springs are strong enough for a momentary use just in case). So, what's not to love?

(but yes, I'd rather have HDS focus on something else)


I agree RE. the form factor (which I like / prefer as well. carry my Rotary's in a Kydex holster). I posted this previously; when I asked Henry about the runtime difference between an AW IMR 16340 and a AW IMR 18350. He advised there was a 45% increase! That is, IMO, a significant enough of an advantage when a person like myself who carry, and use the light through out the night (work).

Pops
 
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