HDS high CRI lights - Poll: will you ever go back?

[indigon]

That would be pjandyho from his Night Trekking thread. A good read for newer folks.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-clickies-Mainly-High-CRI-**PHOTO-Intensive**

Thanks for the link.

I've had good luck with the older V2 & V3 HDS 200 XPG & 250 XP-G2 (Angry Blue-Green tint as Hogo mentioned) by using a Lee filter #162 Amber (Pale-Amber-Beer color). Changes the XPG into a neutral 4600°k-ish with realistic true color rendering. The XPG is originally around 6300°k 73 CRI. Now I have to re-think this whole HiCRI thing. My new 219B 4500°k HiCRI which I like a lot (slightly) enhances the colors, particularly the reds and browns, but they are not the true colors as I see them in daylight, the colors are actually a little richer at night with this HiCRI 219B 4500°k. Next I tried experimenting with the Goblin-Yellow-Green beam corona on my 4k XP-L but that's another story.. (Hint: #506 Marlene).

If you have an older HDS and want to fool around with the tint these Lee filters are worth a look:
(You just cut one out the size of the lens and place it over the reflector).
https://shop.leefiltersusa.com/Swatch-Book-Designers-Edition-SWB.htm

http://www.leefilters.com/lighting/colour-list.html

 

[jon_slider]

Indigon, I really enjoy your posts about Lee filters, thanks for sharing your experience

>I've had good luck with the older V2 & V3 HDS XPG & XP-G2 (Angry Blue-Green tint as Hogo mentioned) by using a Lee filter #162 Amber

thats a HDS 140?
if so, the #162 Lee, would make it an HDS 109 lumen model (High Cri in the pics is a 100 lumen model)

> My new 219B 4500°k HiCRI which I like a lot (slightly) enhances the colors, particularly the reds and browns, but they are not the true colors as I see them in daylight, the colors are actually a little richer at night with this 219B 4500°k.

I agree it oversaturates.. gotta take the good with the bad.. Id rather see a stronger red, than a brownish red. I do not use any Lee filters on my N219b 4500k 9080 LEDs

> Next I tried experimenting with the Goblin-Yellow-Green beam corona on my 4k XP-L but that's another story.. (Hint: #506 Marlene).

If that is a HDS 325 Lumen, after the filter it drops to 219 lumens (within 10% of a HDS 200 High CRI 219b 4500)

maukka recently bought an HDS 200 lumen 3oClock High, 5000k 219c High CRI
he added a Lee 803 and raised the R9 from 67, to R9 95!
the 803 filter (79.9% light transmission) would drop 200 lumens to 160 lumens

the Lee 803 is a high temperature version approximately similar in light transmission to the Lee 1/4 minus green, that I use on my 3000k 219c. It would drop an HDS 200 3000k to HDS 165 lumens

I like to use 1/2 minus green on my Low CRI 6000k Cool White beams, that I find too yellow/green:

It would drop an HDS 250 to HDS 180 lumens
It would drop an HDS 325 to HDS 234 lumens. I recommend the 1/4 minus green for being Rosyer than Marlene, and 5% brighter.

I was skeptical that a filter could actually Raise CRI, but it does, at the cost of lumens from 20% to 33%, depending on the filters in this post. That is similar to the change in Lumens when HDS Low CRi 250, is upgraded to High CRI 200, a drop of 20%. or stated inversely, the HDS 250 low CRI is 25% brighter than the HDS 200 High CRI

I use Lee 1/8 minus green to reduce the yellowness of my N219b 4000k 9080

it would make an HDS 200 into an HDS 173 lumen

I like Lee filters, they help fix lights whose tint I find too green or also the ones I find too yellow. Almost as good as an LED swap, similar loss in lumens, similar improvement in CRI, but easier

---

example of the effect of 1/2 minus green on one of my very green Beams. the Novatac is the unfiltered reference, it has less green tint than the RRT-01 Magnetic Rotary on the left

no filter:

1/4 minus green filter on the RRT-01 only:

 

[indigon]

I'll have to check on which filter I used on the 325 4k XP-L. I have a bunch unlabeled pre-cut in a zip-lock bag.. It's a very pale wine color, the minus green didn't work for me in the 325 4k XP-L but works well in the regular 325 XP-L.

The older 200 XP-G lights are very narrow spot beam throwers, so still plenty bright even filtered with the #162. This tint/temp is excellent, highly recommended.

(Just click on a filter bar to get a graph and specs.):

http://www.leefilters.com/lighting/colour-list.html

Example:

 

[peter yetman]

Thanks for all that Ron and Jon, I'm getting good use out of my HDS 250 now that I've used a light pink filter. I've also put a Daylight to Tungsten 5100K on a Malkoff M61T with great results.
I was sure I'd read about ******* Amber but couldn't find find any searches for it, so thank you, now I know what it does.
P

 

[Modernflame]

Thanks for the info, gents. I think I've got one or two lights lying around that could benefit from a filter.

 

[peter yetman]

I got a swatch book on Ebay for a couple of pounds.
It will provide you with hours of fun.
P

 

[staticx57]

Thanks for the link.
Now I have to re-think this whole HiCRI thing. My new 219B 4500°k HiCRI which I like a lot (slightly) enhances the colors, particularly the reds and browns, but they are not the true colors as I see them in daylight, the colors are actually a little richer at night with this HiCRI 219B 4500°k.

Just so we are all clear, this is accurate. Colors will look different under 4500k and under 5500k (noon day sun).

A high CRI light is high CRI because it renders colors accurate to that color temp not because it renders color "accurate." Think about a 100 CRI color source such as an incandescent lightbulb, it renders colors perfectly ie 100 CRI. Noon day sun is also 100 CRI it also renders colors perfectly ie 100 CRI. Now think about how different your perception of the same object in the two different light sources. We know both render colors correctly so what gives? Your perception of color is depending on color temperature of the light source.

 

[bigburly912]

That's why tint means more to me than anything.

 

[jon_slider]

Just so we are all clear, this is accurate. Colors will look different under 4500k and under 5500k (noon day sun).
...
Your perception of color is depending on color temperature of the light source.

I agree, however, separate from CCT, the 4500K N219b 9080 does oversaturate the primary colors, particularly red.

and yes, how I perceive color under incandescent, when adapted to it, which takes at least 30 minutes, is not the same as how I perceive the color of the incandescent, during the day, when my brain is adapted to sunlight.

that is why some people claim their cool white light is "pure white". It is, when their brain is white balanced to sunlight, but when my brain is adapted and white balances itself to incandescent, cool white looks blue.

the whole white balance of the brain issue, is difficult to explain. It is separate from the white balance of a photo. I do prefer to use daylight white balance for photos, even though it makes incandescent look yellow/orange (warmer).

Using a lower CCT white balance, that more closely mirrors the CCT of an incandescent, will make it look white, but that just confuses everybody.

In addition, overexposed areas in a photo, such as a hotspot, will look "white", simply because it is too bright.

the choice of LED CCT depends on the white balance of the operators brain in the environment, and at the time of use.

If Im driving a service truck during the day, my brain white balances to sunlight. When I go in a dark basement, cool white looks white for the first 30 minutes, after than a lower CCT light is less blue and glaring. That is why I like having choice of CCT, 3000k, 4500k 6000k all have their best use scenarios.

courses for horses.