HDS Systems #23

InvisibleFrodo

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Sep 16, 2014
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963
I was curious why Hogo called the clicky the red headed step child when I asked. My reasoning behind choosing a clicky is that when sand, water, maybe even engine oil and grease, mud, or when deep cleaning a restaurant, and there is grease and fat and oil and gross muck, all things I've dealt with while holding various jobs, I just don't feel comfortable exposing a rotary to those type environments. Maybe it would be okay, maybe not. And when it comes to something like an HDS, or an expensive pocket knife, I'm frequently tempted to use something else of lesser quality and caliber, because I see those cheap items as more disposable. I've tried more and more to avoid that thought. I but stuff like HDS to use it.
 

bpbpoo

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Oct 18, 2020
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I'm frequently tempted to use something else of lesser quality and caliber, because I see those cheap items as more disposable. I've tried more and more to avoid that thought. I but stuff like HDS to use it.

I agree 100% ! This is why I have an executive. And another (NB40) on the way. Off-loaded the SS40 rotary I had for the very reason you mentioned. My old golden dragon executive went through hell and was still running like a top. I love the rotary functionality but I just didn't trust it to get me through like I do the executive.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Hogokansatsukan

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Aug 14, 2006
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I was curious why Hogo called the clicky the red headed step child when I asked.

I call it that because it is not very popular. A few years ago the Rotary outsold it 10 to 1. Currently it is probably more along the lines of 15 to 1.
The reality, it is a great light and design, and arguing about which is better is like comparing two cars, one that goes 0-60 in 4.3 seconds and another that does it in 4.1 seconds. Most real world applications... it just doesn't matter... but one is an automatic and the other a 5 speed.

Edit: My Jeep will do the quarter mile in a couple minutes with engine light flashing at me.
 
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klackey

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Nov 22, 2009
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236
"Killed" as in rendered the light completely inoperable, or simply compromised the functioning of the dial?

So, both lights failed in the same way. Description as sent to HDS:

""1) The light will be on and I turn the tail and nothing happens…. No light output change.

2) Other times it will change but it is SLOW… like I turn the tail and it has to think it over then adjust the output. I estimate a 1-2 second lag.

3) I push the switch, hear it click, light goes on then shuts off. One press… on then off.

4) Light is on and I push the switch and it refuses to turn off…. It takes several presses to get it to shut down.""

The problems were intermittent and caused me to loose faith in using these lights for more "serious uses" (night walks in the woods[not parks or neighborhood's] / beaching divers at night...etc). The problem was identified in the tail as I could swap the heads and the lights would still act-up.

As for the brutality of the showers... it is rather harsh... heat, direct water and steam.

Per Henry "Since you mention using the light in the shower every day, do you realize the rotary control seals are only static and not dynamic? I am guessing you are getting water past the seal. Changes in temperature will change the air pressure inside the light, and then operating the seal with water next to the seal with a negative pressure inside the light will cause water to leak past the seals.""

I get up before the wife the traditional shower light would wake her. HDS was my prefect solution. I will admit to also adjusting the light intensity while in the shower. Steam is fantastic for observing the beam patterns. The rotary served well over a year.

The clicky has survived.

I do not baby my rotaries, I just do not intentionally use them in the mud, grease and sand.
 

scout24

Flashaholic
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Dec 23, 2008
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8,869
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Penn's Woods
Carrying my 200lm hcri Executive today just to be contrarian... :nana:

And because, you know, it's an awesome light...
 

PoliceScannerMan

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Jul 25, 2005
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Gainesville,FL
1e4f4ffc8a7bda231e9105550c1a4cad.jpg

18650 vs CR123 vs AA wall thickness. That AA though!!
 

InvisibleFrodo

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Sep 16, 2014
Messages
963
Haha The AA looks a little lost in there. Like a guy whose pants don't fit anymore now that he lost a bunch of weight.
Super cool lineup. Love seeing that kinda stuff side by side. We need a standard 16mm body to complete the comparison! 🤓🤩
 

Hogokansatsukan

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Let's take a look at two 18650 Rotary tubes (these have the thinest walls), one HA and one in raw aluminum before it goes to get anodized.

Because of the walls being slightly thinner than the 123 tubes, the signal wire channel is exactly that, a channel. If you look in the 123, it is a hole drilled through the aluminum tube from front to back... this can be done because the aluminum is THICKER. The 2AA is a channel even though the aluminum is in that tube is much thicker, because drilling a hole that small the entire length of the tube drives machinists crazy.

The only reason to use a sleeve would be for using different battery diameters in the same tube in order to keep the smaller battery from knocking around in there... or because it is (self edited... something about crappy engineering... just think of something that would make you wince... it will be close enough).
 

JKolmo

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 26, 2012
Messages
429
Yeah, a 6AA HDS with a drilled signal wire hole![emoji1787] Maybe needs to compete with a 50th wedding anniversary though.
 
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Celery

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Joined
Mar 26, 2021
Messages
63
I emailed Henry regarding eta on a 4/17 order (a day after the LIMITED emitters were available to all body styles). He said he's low on reflectors, and won't get more until August.
 

Hogokansatsukan

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 14, 2006
Messages
5,245
Location
Tucson
I emailed Henry regarding eta on a 4/17 order (a day after the LIMITED emitters were available to all body styles). He said he's low on reflectors, and won't get more until August.

August is in... "Two Weeks". Just saying. Most likely it could be longer.
 
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